Short block replaced twice already
#1
Short block replaced twice already
If anyone could throw some light on this I would be extremely grateful, please forgive my lack of technical knowledge.
I bought my53 plate ppp back in 2003 brand new and was blissfully happy with it for 11 months then the problems started.
I had been driving the car quite hard as you do, however I had slowed down for several miles on the motorway then decided to speed up again only to loose power and see a trail of spoke from the exhaust behind me. Car was subsequently recovered to garage on investigation I was told the bolt that attaches the conrod to the big end bearing had probably snapped which resulted in the con rod snapping and going clean through the the wall of the block. I was obviously rather pee'd off about this but accepted it as just one of those things that happens.
The problem was resolved under warranty and was told that the short block had been replaced and was told to bring the car back after 1000 miles for oil change which I duly did. I was happy with the service I received.
About 7 months ago again had gunned it down the motorway (BMW on **** wanted to prove a point) slowed down for prob 10 miles went to gun it again when again loss of power. I pulled over engine making knocking sound and sound like metal on metal instantly thought not again. Recovered back to garage they look at it and diagnose shattered big end bearing again under warranty another short block is replaced. Oil is changed again after 1000 miles and I mention to them that there is a rushing sound which sounds like gurgling water when I accelerate, they state that it's air in the cooling system and that it should sort it's self out if not will bleed it at next service (The gurgling/water rushing sound did mainly disappear over time).
The story continues yesterday driving steadily on dual carriageway accelerate down slip road to join motorway ease back as traffic in the way, traffic moves out of the way go to overtake and again loss of power. Pull over same symptoms as before car has now been recovered back to same garage fortunately the car is still under warranty, runs out in September.
I know what’s gonna happen next I expect the short block will be replaced again!!
My question is are there any known problems for this kinda fault and is the dealer right to just replace just the short block or should they be replacing other components to?
As I said any help would be greatly appreciated I’m afraid I am one very disillusioned scooby owner at the moment and will be considering selling the car.
I bought my53 plate ppp back in 2003 brand new and was blissfully happy with it for 11 months then the problems started.
I had been driving the car quite hard as you do, however I had slowed down for several miles on the motorway then decided to speed up again only to loose power and see a trail of spoke from the exhaust behind me. Car was subsequently recovered to garage on investigation I was told the bolt that attaches the conrod to the big end bearing had probably snapped which resulted in the con rod snapping and going clean through the the wall of the block. I was obviously rather pee'd off about this but accepted it as just one of those things that happens.
The problem was resolved under warranty and was told that the short block had been replaced and was told to bring the car back after 1000 miles for oil change which I duly did. I was happy with the service I received.
About 7 months ago again had gunned it down the motorway (BMW on **** wanted to prove a point) slowed down for prob 10 miles went to gun it again when again loss of power. I pulled over engine making knocking sound and sound like metal on metal instantly thought not again. Recovered back to garage they look at it and diagnose shattered big end bearing again under warranty another short block is replaced. Oil is changed again after 1000 miles and I mention to them that there is a rushing sound which sounds like gurgling water when I accelerate, they state that it's air in the cooling system and that it should sort it's self out if not will bleed it at next service (The gurgling/water rushing sound did mainly disappear over time).
The story continues yesterday driving steadily on dual carriageway accelerate down slip road to join motorway ease back as traffic in the way, traffic moves out of the way go to overtake and again loss of power. Pull over same symptoms as before car has now been recovered back to same garage fortunately the car is still under warranty, runs out in September.
I know what’s gonna happen next I expect the short block will be replaced again!!
My question is are there any known problems for this kinda fault and is the dealer right to just replace just the short block or should they be replacing other components to?
As I said any help would be greatly appreciated I’m afraid I am one very disillusioned scooby owner at the moment and will be considering selling the car.
#2
A guess:
There is an oil cooler on the engine that MUST be replaced with a new one after any engine failure of any kind as debris collects in it only to become dislodged later. Just maybe this has been carried over from block to block (it is a bolt-on item, about £100 I think).
This just what I've read so I may be wrong.
Best ask them?
Graham
There is an oil cooler on the engine that MUST be replaced with a new one after any engine failure of any kind as debris collects in it only to become dislodged later. Just maybe this has been carried over from block to block (it is a bolt-on item, about £100 I think).
This just what I've read so I may be wrong.
Best ask them?
Graham
#4
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Has the MAF been checked / replaced since the first incident?
Has the modine / oil pump been replaced every time?
Has all oilways been flushed in the parts that have been reused?
etc
Has the modine / oil pump been replaced every time?
Has all oilways been flushed in the parts that have been reused?
etc
#5
Thanks for feed back will raise these issues with the dealer if anyone has any further comments or experience i would also value your input. The more ammunition i have to throw at the dealer the better!!!!!
Many thanks
Many thanks
#6
Some more info, have just spoken to the dealer they did replace the oil pump last time by the way but they said that the car seemed to be low on oil! I have only done just over 3000 miles since they last changed the oil how much oil does an impreza generally use? My last car was a honda integra type r and i hardly used any oil between services!
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LOL usually it is low on oil if a rod is hanging out the side!
But seriously you should always check your oil regularly - you don't mention the miles between the last service and the recent loss of power?
But seriously you should always check your oil regularly - you don't mention the miles between the last service and the recent loss of power?
Last edited by Jay m A; 25 August 2006 at 12:04 PM.
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#8
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oild use varies from car to car, some ae good some are bad, check it every time before you go out, quick check of coolant level etc, take 2-3 mins but well worth doing each and every day
#9
Jay
3000 miles since the last complete oil change 4000 since the last engine rebuild. Rod through block was on the first rebuild obviously lost all oil then this time looks like another shattered big end bearing no hole in block.
Thanks for your reply
3000 miles since the last complete oil change 4000 since the last engine rebuild. Rod through block was on the first rebuild obviously lost all oil then this time looks like another shattered big end bearing no hole in block.
Thanks for your reply
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Originally Posted by chilli
Some more info, have just spoken to the dealer they did replace the oil pump last time by the way but they said that the car seemed to be low on oil! I have only done just over 3000 miles since they last changed the oil how much oil does an impreza generally use? My last car was a honda integra type r and i hardly used any oil between services!
Subaru engines simply don't suffer terminal failures 3 times in such quick succession without good reason and I'll bet it's cause the cause of the failures have not been identified and remedied appropriately, if at all! Either that or you've been doing something funny with the boost between builds i.e. do you have a dawes on it???
Personally, I wouldn't go back for another build there; I'd be looking at taking the car elsewhere to get it done properly and sending them the bill!
APi are excellent.
ns04
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Think you would have a good case with trading standards to be honest with you, but like others have said, the damage has been fixed seemingly without knowing and rectifying the cause.
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Originally Posted by chilli
New scooby 04
Thanks for reply have not messed around at all with car the only mod on it is the dealer fit ppp!
Thanks for reply have not messed around at all with car the only mod on it is the dealer fit ppp!
I would contact trading standards, ask their advice and strongly consider getting the car repaired elsewhere at the dealerships expense; 3 rebuilds is simply NOT acceptable- I wouldn't be going back for a 4th!
You could still do a lot worse than to phone David at APi up and ask for his advice, he might ba able to give you an educated guess as to what might be wrong and if you turn up at the dealers well informed, they're gonna pay attention.
All the best with it.
Ns04
#14
Thanks for reply New Scooby 04
Have spoken to Subaru Uk who have taken up the case and are sending one of their tech guys to the dealership to find out what's going on. Will let you know what their findings are and how i get on!
Thanks for everyones input
Have spoken to Subaru Uk who have taken up the case and are sending one of their tech guys to the dealership to find out what's going on. Will let you know what their findings are and how i get on!
Thanks for everyones input
#15
Apart from the inconvenience, if the dealer keeps on sorting it FOC under warranty then it's they who should be worried about the causes, as it's costing them money and good will.
F
F
#16
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Do you run it on, Optimax or supermarket cheapo fuel?
Also it seems to always go when on a motorway, when you say you're booting it what speed would you say you top out at and how long are you holding it there? Many a subaru engine has let go if held at high speeds as top mounted intercoolers struggle under those conditions.
Also it seems to always go when on a motorway, when you say you're booting it what speed would you say you top out at and how long are you holding it there? Many a subaru engine has let go if held at high speeds as top mounted intercoolers struggle under those conditions.
#17
Having suffered a similar experience a few years ago, you have an exellent case for the dealer to give you a full refund or another car, they have sold a car that is not of "merchantable quality" in other words not fit for the purpose itwas designed, three atempts to remedy it and all have failed, there isnt a court in the country that would support them if you chose this route ! Dont let the experience put you off scooby ownership though, stories of engines letting go are thankfully rare !
Good luck
James
Good luck
James
#18
I do run car on optimax must admit that i do from time to time fill up on normal unleaded. The first time the engine let go i was driving pretty quick lets just say near to the top end of the speedo but then i eased back for 5 miles or so, when i went to go again thats when the engine let go.
On the 2nd occasion i had a high speed run but only for a couple of miles then i took it easy prob 15 miles later went to boot it not excessevely though and again the engine gave way.
On 3rd occasion had not booted car at all accelerated down a slip road as you do, doing about 80 in 4th about to change up when engine gave out again.
On the 2nd occasion i had a high speed run but only for a couple of miles then i took it easy prob 15 miles later went to boot it not excessevely though and again the engine gave way.
On 3rd occasion had not booted car at all accelerated down a slip road as you do, doing about 80 in 4th about to change up when engine gave out again.
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Run-in period on new bottom end?
Did the dealer advise you to keep the revs down below 3500 for the 1st 500 miles or so? Also did they disconnect the boost, or set your car to limp home mode? Not sure how much running in you need to do, but it wouldn't do any harm I reckon to follow new-engine break in guidelines.
Your PPP car must be pushing out 305 ponies & 300lbpf of torque. Also that standard turbo will spool pretty low down too, so may not be doing it much good, even pulling 4000 - 5500 rpm (near peak torque will be getting slugged out through those shiny new internals) . Still don't think that this is the source of the problem though, but it might help?
Hope that you either get a replacment under warranty, (entire car / long block engine at least) or that Subaru UK will carry out a proper diagnostic for you.
Best of luck mate.
Chrs,
M
Your PPP car must be pushing out 305 ponies & 300lbpf of torque. Also that standard turbo will spool pretty low down too, so may not be doing it much good, even pulling 4000 - 5500 rpm (near peak torque will be getting slugged out through those shiny new internals) . Still don't think that this is the source of the problem though, but it might help?
Hope that you either get a replacment under warranty, (entire car / long block engine at least) or that Subaru UK will carry out a proper diagnostic for you.
Best of luck mate.
Chrs,
M
#20
Just going through old posts and noted I never got around to updating this post so 7 years on here's the update :-) Better late than never!
Basically Subaru UK sent one of their guys out to evaluate what was going on, he advised the garage on what to replace. The subsequent list of replacement parts was as long as my arm. When I drove the car away the old service guy at the dealership said "I've got a good one there" referring to the new engine as if there's good and bad ones. Well certainly 7 years on (probably tempting fate) the engines still going strong - the old engine wasn't a patch on this one! Subaru also extended the warranty for an additional year so although not necessarily that impressed with local dealer Subaru UK were excellent.
Anyhow 68,000 miles and ten years of ownership I will be parting with my Scooby sometime in the near future (will be difficult) unfortunately due to the obligatory running costs, family and desire to want to get fishing gear in and out of car! I know I will regret selling this car on, I can honestly say apart from the early problems I had with the car it's been an awesome car.
Like I said better late than never - thanks for all the previous comments I wonder if you guys that previously replied are still proud Scooby owners :-)
Basically Subaru UK sent one of their guys out to evaluate what was going on, he advised the garage on what to replace. The subsequent list of replacement parts was as long as my arm. When I drove the car away the old service guy at the dealership said "I've got a good one there" referring to the new engine as if there's good and bad ones. Well certainly 7 years on (probably tempting fate) the engines still going strong - the old engine wasn't a patch on this one! Subaru also extended the warranty for an additional year so although not necessarily that impressed with local dealer Subaru UK were excellent.
Anyhow 68,000 miles and ten years of ownership I will be parting with my Scooby sometime in the near future (will be difficult) unfortunately due to the obligatory running costs, family and desire to want to get fishing gear in and out of car! I know I will regret selling this car on, I can honestly say apart from the early problems I had with the car it's been an awesome car.
Like I said better late than never - thanks for all the previous comments I wonder if you guys that previously replied are still proud Scooby owners :-)
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Both! First time I upgraded to the 2.5 short engine and v3 sti heads, when that went (burnt valve) I bought a 2nd hand 2.1 engine with uprated valves. This has lasted approx 40k miles and 4 seasons of sprint competition - I lost compression last year and it turned out to be a splint liner, so now I am currently rebuilding it with a CDB.
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