going to fit a decat down pipe just want to know is it a simple job?
Any tips?
Does it need heat wrap?
And what do you have 2 do with the lambda sensor?????
please reply it will be so much help cheers

 

its easy enough to do if the car is an early one the lambda is is the manifold and just put blanking plugs in the holes and yeah heat wrap it

 

so you can just disconnect the lambda mine has got a plug in it so thats good

 

Put WD40 on the five turbo retaining nuts/studs the night before also the two flange bolts to the centre section if it is that type of pipe.
Use a socket set or at least, ring spanners but access is an issue so a socket set and extension with knuckle joint is the way to go.
Down pipe should be heat wrapped for best performance and reduction of under bonnet temperatures.
If you have a lambda sensor in your o/E D/P then put it back in the replacement D/P.
Relatively easy job with the right tools. A ramp or lift makes it much easier/quicker but you can do it on your drive with a jack as long as it lifts the car high enough.

 

Thats really helpfull, it has got a hole 4 the lambda hope its the right size so it plugs stright in. got ramps so thats a help. Only thing is it doesnt have any heat wrap on it will have 2 try and pick some up and get on with it 2moz

 

theres a block in the o/e downipe pipe its just a cat on fire sensor i think the nu o it is a thirtheen anttheone on the lamba is a19 or something i jus disconnected mine and got no cel light my car is a 94 wrx

 

Right heat wrapped it just about 2 start

 

mines a 97uk cant get the blanking plug off the lambda sensor hole in the down pipe that im fitting. so can you just leave the lambda sensor out and everything be fine? or do you have 2 do something else???

 

You need to run with a lambda sensor.
WD40 overnight several times on the blanking plug. Leave it so the WD drains down into the thread.
Good long bar with the right tool.
Take it to someone with a bit of heat, like a local exhaust depot.
If none of that works which is very unlikely, get it drilled out.

 

Ignore that.... didn't read the post properly

 

Right wd40 is on, my god i didnt think that anything could get that stuck on that hard, so tight doesnt move at all!

 

Didn't you have your weetabix this morning
Try a longer bar on the socket or give a spanner a "****" with the hammer to get it started.

Andy

 

I would invest in a breaker bar if i were you

 

its only got an alan key hole thats the prob will need me and the alan key 2 eat a few weetabix i think soaking in wd40 at the hope it frees it up

 

good luck! took me 6 hours to do the ******, would of been quicker but i was by myself and the monsoon hit southeast london that day, i would recommend 2 people to do this

 

Allen key

You sure that's not the egt (cat on fire) sensor boss.

The lambda sensor boss should be about 24mm spanner size (lambda sensor itself is 22mm)

 

Yeah its about 22-24mm plug but is round at its edge and has an allen key slot right in the middle. its right at the top where it has the wide mouth that bolts to the turbo. been soaking 4 a while still wont budge thing is starts 2 bend the allen key so annoying

 

LITTLE TIP Soak some bread in wd 40 place it over siezed part resoak it and leave for a while the bread will stop wd 40 from running away hope this helps kip

 

Never thought bout this great idea cheers kip will give it a bit more soaking some brekie have a go again! is anything ever easy EVER?

 

 

Is yours a slanty intercooler or a straight one?
If straight, then remove the intercooler bracket, that will give you the room to manoeuvre the heat sheild out.


Andy

 

yeah it s a stright1 but it has beaten me put it all back 2gether need 2 find a trusty garage. ive got lots of tools but never the right 1 you need

 

ps as you my notice my spelling is rubbish sorry bout that

 

SOunds like you need a bigger hammer.


Andy

 

Ha ha almost took a sledge hammer to it

 

Cheers 4 all the help tho