Downpipe heat wrap.........worth it?
#1
Downpipe heat wrap.........worth it?
My bugeye WRX is running approximately 260bhp I`d guesstimate, with full stainless steel Afterburner system from turbo back and a decatted up pipe too, induction kit and an Ecutec remap at 1.2 bar boost.
Is there any benefit for me in fitting heat wrapping to my downpipe and even possibly my centre section to the backbox?
Where are the benefits and what differences would I notice?
Lastly, has anyone done this and actually recommends it?
Cliff
Is there any benefit for me in fitting heat wrapping to my downpipe and even possibly my centre section to the backbox?
Where are the benefits and what differences would I notice?
Lastly, has anyone done this and actually recommends it?
Cliff
#2
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I wouldn't bother wrapping the centre section - Just do the downpipe from the top, to where it turns underneath the car.
In theory, the hotter you can keep the gas, the faster it'll move.
In theory, the hotter you can keep the gas, the faster it'll move.
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Originally Posted by v5 man
My bugeye WRX is running approximately 260bhp I`d guesstimate, with full stainless steel Afterburner system from turbo back and a decatted up pipe too, induction kit and an Ecutec remap at 1.2 bar boost.
Is there any benefit for me in fitting heat wrapping to my downpipe and even possibly my centre section to the backbox?
Where are the benefits and what differences would I notice?
Lastly, has anyone done this and actually recommends it?
Cliff
Is there any benefit for me in fitting heat wrapping to my downpipe and even possibly my centre section to the backbox?
Where are the benefits and what differences would I notice?
Lastly, has anyone done this and actually recommends it?
Cliff
If I had a full decat and had put my bugeye WRX through an ecutek remap and only come out with 260bhp I'd be worried!!
I assume from your "guesstimate" you haven't been on the rollers recently. My bugeye WRX achieved 265bhp & 256 lb/ft torque with all cats on, a Magnex backbox, GREEN panel filter and an ecutek.
With a full decat you should be looking at 280-290bhp (assuming you had the remap AFTER the decat )
To answer your question, I've bought a lagged decat down pipe following advise from other people "in the know" but you don't need to bother with the centre pipe.
#6
My up-pipe decat was added after the remap unfortunately and my only rolling road day previous to that, with the cat-back system and remap saw me make 247bhp and 266 lb of torque, but possibly due to my shattered piston no.4 and no compression on that cylinder
Im guessing at 260 but hoping it`d be higher, although I thought the td04 was only good for 280bhp.
Im guessing at 260 but hoping it`d be higher, although I thought the td04 was only good for 280bhp.
#7
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I would think you'll be well over those figure Cliff. As I said (assuming your #4 is fixed) you should be looking at over 280bhp with a pretty good torque figure which, IMO, is more important.
I've got a lagged decat downpipe to go on plus a decat up pipe, with an ecutek "tweak" to get the benefits. . I'm hoping for those figures.
I'm not sure what you'd get from the induction kit, if anything.
I've got a lagged decat downpipe to go on plus a decat up pipe, with an ecutek "tweak" to get the benefits. . I'm hoping for those figures.
I'm not sure what you'd get from the induction kit, if anything.
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#8
Nice one, i`ll do the lagging then and definitely going to get my map tweeked asap.
My engine was fully rebuilt just before xmas and I took the opportunity to add a lightened flywheel, STi clutch, lightend and balanced crank + pulley too.
Unfortunately im now having to run a dawes device set at 1.2 bar as the up-pipe decat makes my turbo boost to 1.35 bar and its obviously not mapped for it.
Im possibly removing the induction kit as im finding the scoob doesnt run too well when the engine gets hot and i`ve been idleing in traffic
I`ve still got a JR panel filter and original air box to go back in if need be, but first I might try making a partition in the engine bay to stop the hot air getting into the induction kit.
My engine was fully rebuilt just before xmas and I took the opportunity to add a lightened flywheel, STi clutch, lightend and balanced crank + pulley too.
Unfortunately im now having to run a dawes device set at 1.2 bar as the up-pipe decat makes my turbo boost to 1.35 bar and its obviously not mapped for it.
Im possibly removing the induction kit as im finding the scoob doesnt run too well when the engine gets hot and i`ve been idleing in traffic
I`ve still got a JR panel filter and original air box to go back in if need be, but first I might try making a partition in the engine bay to stop the hot air getting into the induction kit.
#10
Yep, the car slams into gear much better without any sign of slipping, but, the cars harder to clutch control in traffic than before, it revs easier too, but im not sure if thats due to having 4 working cylinders, the decatted up pipe, or the flywheel being lighter
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