Scoobyclinic or API for exhaust and remap - What you do reckon?
#1
Scoobyclinic or API for exhaust and remap - What you do reckon?
I'll soon be getting a full de-cat exhaust and remap for my classic wrx. I've got a choice between going to Scoobyclinic and getting a magnex system + one of their remaps on a rolling road or going to API Engines and getting a Scooby Sport exhaust + remap on road with me driving.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Originally Posted by dc268
I'll soon be getting a full de-cat exhaust and remap for my classic wrx. I've got a choice between going to Scoobyclinic and getting a magnex system + one of their remaps on a rolling road or going to API Engines and getting a Scooby Sport exhaust + remap on road with me driving.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
AFAIK!
NS04
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Originally Posted by dc268
I'll soon be getting a full de-cat exhaust and remap for my classic wrx. I've got a choice between going to Scoobyclinic and getting a magnex system + one of their remaps on a rolling road or going to API Engines and getting a Scooby Sport exhaust + remap on road with me driving.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Both companies have excellent reputations,
Both are around the same price and an equal hassle-factor for me to get to.
So which one do you think is best?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
David APi Engines / APi Impreza
www.apiengines.com
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Originally Posted by dc268
Any advantage to mapping on the road rather than on a rolling road?
Just a guess though!!
NS04
#6
Personally I would get it mapped on the road (its where you drive the car so the loads will be the same), you can also map it in 4th gear to keep speeds down.
And you don't have to drive like a lunatic, the mapper is generally looking at a laptop. So if its not save to accelerate then tell them and wait until it is.
Dave.
And you don't have to drive like a lunatic, the mapper is generally looking at a laptop. So if its not save to accelerate then tell them and wait until it is.
Dave.
#7
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Personally i think a rolling road map (to help with the high speed/high load stuff in a safe environment) then tailored out on the road would be a good choice. But i'd say that it's essential the map is at least finished on the road, i'd never trust a car only set up on the rollers. All IMHO tho
Tony.
Tony.
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Originally Posted by DaveW
Personally I would get it mapped on the road (its where you drive the car so the loads will be the same), you can also map it in 4th gear to keep speeds down.
And you don't have to drive like a lunatic, the mapper is generally looking at a laptop. So if its not save to accelerate then tell them and wait until it is.
Dave.
And you don't have to drive like a lunatic, the mapper is generally looking at a laptop. So if its not save to accelerate then tell them and wait until it is.
Dave.
Mapper: Ok, I need full boost in 5th gear!!!
Driver: Before or after we've hit the bus?!?!?!
Both: AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!
NS04
#9
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Originally Posted by Tone Loc
Personally i think a rolling road map (to help with the high speed/high load stuff in a safe environment) then tailored out on the road would be a good choice. But i'd say that it's essential the map is at least finished on the road, i'd never trust a car only set up on the rollers. All IMHO tho
Tony.
Tony.
hope this helps!
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#10
Originally Posted by Tone Loc
Personally i think a rolling road map (to help with the high speed/high load stuff in a safe environment) then tailored out on the road would be a good choice. But i'd say that it's essential the map is at least finished on the road, i'd never trust a car only set up on the rollers. All IMHO tho
Tony.
Tony.
You can have 300bhp tuned on rolling road and never see them against a Civic Type R for a example-a shame. You should insist on getting the final adjustments on the road. Choose a nice and quiet hour and go for it.
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Originally Posted by velosgr
It is doubtable whether a rolling road would give you even a distant simulation of your specific driving style.
Tony.
#13
You cannot map a car "properly" on the road, it is impossible to hold the various load sites once the turbo starts to spool up. It is dangerous and very hard on the brakes trying to simulate / hold the various load sites. Agree the best principle is to map it on the rollers holding steady state at each load site and adjusting fueling / ignition to suit. Once finished the car should then go out on the road to adjust the boost control / ISCV and other real world driving parameters.
As Tony said, how does driving style influence the engine AFR / ignition map?
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As Tony said, how does driving style influence the engine AFR / ignition map?
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Last edited by The Zohan; 10 May 2005 at 01:47 PM.
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Mine was mapped on scoobyclinics rolling road, I agree with doing both
Its just not sensible mapping mine on the road, plus when it breaks its allready within pushing distance of the ramps
David
Its just not sensible mapping mine on the road, plus when it breaks its allready within pushing distance of the ramps
David
#19
Some more info:
Scoobyclinic are saying with an exhaust (full de-cat) and remap (plug in 'piggy back' chip remapped by themselves on a rolling road and actual road) the car should achieve EITHER 275/280 bhp OR 310/315 bhp but are unsure why wrx's seem too come in at either one of these power levels. I would obviously be happy with 310 bhp but 275 bhp doesn't seem like such a bargain for around £1200 - I thought I'd get around that just with the exhaust on a '96 wrx. What do people reckon?
API is claiming 290-300bhp after the exhaust and a remap which used a solder in chip and is mapped on road (external mapper I think?), can power figures be measured without a rolling road?
Peoples opinions are appreciated. Its seems like quite a spread of power figures to be quoting for similar cost (I realise there are no guarantees to power achieved with this sort of work).
Scoobyclinic are saying with an exhaust (full de-cat) and remap (plug in 'piggy back' chip remapped by themselves on a rolling road and actual road) the car should achieve EITHER 275/280 bhp OR 310/315 bhp but are unsure why wrx's seem too come in at either one of these power levels. I would obviously be happy with 310 bhp but 275 bhp doesn't seem like such a bargain for around £1200 - I thought I'd get around that just with the exhaust on a '96 wrx. What do people reckon?
API is claiming 290-300bhp after the exhaust and a remap which used a solder in chip and is mapped on road (external mapper I think?), can power figures be measured without a rolling road?
Peoples opinions are appreciated. Its seems like quite a spread of power figures to be quoting for similar cost (I realise there are no guarantees to power achieved with this sort of work).
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I had mine done at api (pat) and will be on the rolling road in 2 weeks so i can let you know then.
I think you may have fuelling issues above 300bhp on your standard injectors and fuel pump, and would have thought 280-300 is more realistic.
1996 wrx produces 260ps = 256bhp
Add in lower octane fuel and you might be putting out 250bhp.
Full decat and exhaust may bring you up to 268bhp.
The remap might take you on to 285bhp.
A bit of guesstimation but shows how you may well be producing less power than you thought due to PS/BHP and octane differences
I think you may have fuelling issues above 300bhp on your standard injectors and fuel pump, and would have thought 280-300 is more realistic.
1996 wrx produces 260ps = 256bhp
Add in lower octane fuel and you might be putting out 250bhp.
Full decat and exhaust may bring you up to 268bhp.
The remap might take you on to 285bhp.
A bit of guesstimation but shows how you may well be producing less power than you thought due to PS/BHP and octane differences
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Originally Posted by dc268
Some more info:
Scoobyclinic are saying with an exhaust (full de-cat) and remap (plug in 'piggy back' chip remapped by themselves on a rolling road and actual road) the car should achieve EITHER 275/280 bhp OR 310/315 bhp but are unsure why wrx's seem too come in at either one of these power levels. I would obviously be happy with 310 bhp but 275 bhp doesn't seem like such a bargain for around £1200 - I thought I'd get around that just with the exhaust on a '96 wrx. What do people reckon?
API is claiming 290-300bhp after the exhaust and a remap which used a solder in chip and is mapped on road (external mapper I think?), can power figures be measured without a rolling road?
Peoples opinions are appreciated. Its seems like quite a spread of power figures to be quoting for similar cost (I realise there are no guarantees to power achieved with this sort of work).
Scoobyclinic are saying with an exhaust (full de-cat) and remap (plug in 'piggy back' chip remapped by themselves on a rolling road and actual road) the car should achieve EITHER 275/280 bhp OR 310/315 bhp but are unsure why wrx's seem too come in at either one of these power levels. I would obviously be happy with 310 bhp but 275 bhp doesn't seem like such a bargain for around £1200 - I thought I'd get around that just with the exhaust on a '96 wrx. What do people reckon?
API is claiming 290-300bhp after the exhaust and a remap which used a solder in chip and is mapped on road (external mapper I think?), can power figures be measured without a rolling road?
Peoples opinions are appreciated. Its seems like quite a spread of power figures to be quoting for similar cost (I realise there are no guarantees to power achieved with this sort of work).
Though i am planning to visit ScoobyClinic to make a run on my next visit up North.. Providing i don't get lost...
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Originally Posted by Conrad_Bradley
You cannot map a car "properly" on the road, it is impossible to hold the various load sites once the turbo starts to spool up. It is dangerous and very hard on the brakes trying to simulate / hold the various load sites. Agree the best principle is to map it on the rollers holding steady state at each load site and adjusting fueling / ignition to suit. Once finished the car should then go out on the road to adjust the boost control / ISCV and other real world driving parameters.
As Tony said, how does driving style influence the engine AFR / ignition map?
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As Tony said, how does driving style influence the engine AFR / ignition map?
advertising removed by PH
If the mapper doesnt have a close base map to start from then that may be another matter, but I'd rather the development work be tried and tested elsewhere before having it mapped onto mine.
As for driving style, if think different people have differing prefs on how they want boost to come in etc.
I would always go for a 'real road' map.
Bob
#26
Scoobyclinic told me they map it themselves, so I'm assuming that means they don't use Pat.
For those of us who don't know - what's the difference between a solder-in chip (as used by API) and the plug-in 'piggy-back' chip (as used by Scoobyclinic) in terms of performance, flexibility etc?
Thanks.
For those of us who don't know - what's the difference between a solder-in chip (as used by API) and the plug-in 'piggy-back' chip (as used by Scoobyclinic) in terms of performance, flexibility etc?
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by New_scooby_04
Mapper: Ok, I need full boost in 5th gear!!!
Driver: Before or after we've hit the bus?!?!?!
Both: AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!
Driver: Before or after we've hit the bus?!?!?!
Both: AAAARRRRGGGHHHH!!
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