dibble wants a scooby

Guys
Had the car a couple of weeks now and finally managed to prise the keys from the missus!!
HAd a run to Notts on sat and noticed a couple of things and being more bikes than turbo cars (last one got burned big style on a R5 turbo) need some advice.
When changing gear about 3500-4000rpm the car seems to 'hit a brick wall' then when I bring the clutch back up its fine It feels like the boost builds up then when changing gear it throws you forward till you engage the boost again
Will this be cured by a dump valve? I'm not on for the sound of the whistle-whoose-whistle sound of the MAX boys.

Also the car has a loud exhaust on fitted by Bell and Colevill when new so is this a Prodrive or just a local made one, it has an oval tailpipe in crome.
The last Q...spoke to the last owner and he said it had a filter on aswell, but on looking the whole induction box looks brand new and it has a std(?) filter in (red paper) also brand new. Could the dealer have replaced an induction kit? as it seems strange to renew the whole induction side??
Could this lead to rich running as I cleaned the tailpipe as it was covered in carbon and its covered again in black soot already and it uses A LOT of juice

Cheers in advance
Dibs

jtabraham

Hi
The symptoms you describe are pretty vague,
the drop of between gears from the boost could be lag if you are not in the rev range for boost.
I would not change the dump valve to a vta as this has a tendancy to make the drop off more noticeable.
What do you class as poor economy? I get about 220 - 240 miles per tank of optimax.
The exhaust I suspect is not prodrive as the classic prodrive box is round, and is not really that much different noise wise to standard except when you start to open it up.
As for the filter, many people upgrade the panel filter as opposed to fitting an induction kit, especially on the MY99/00 as these have a tendancy to eat MAF sensors.
Hope this helps.
Jt

Dark Blue Mark

Exhaust sounds like a Magnex 6x4 oval.

The hesitation sounds like a dodgy MAF, but can't be certain.

The filter might be an ITG, in which case you may have a gummed up MAF sensor, as the ITG is oiled. May also be an STi filter, which is a good one. The new airbox would imply it may have had an induction kit on there, the owner binned the original box, and needed a newer one to put back on for sale?

I would reccomend an ECU reset, and keep an eye on the idle. If it tries to cut out / lumpy at idle, your MAF is probably the culprit. Equally, the lambda sensor may be dead too, which would the explain the sooty exhaust and poor fuel economy. Impreza's do run a bit rich, but the pipe shouldn't be black. A failed MAF runs lean, which is why they are so dangerous when undetected, as they can easily cause a blow up. MAF is used when on boost, and controls the fuelling. Lambda controlls fuelling off boost.

MB

DEEDEE

How to ECU Reset
On early MYs (especially pre MY97) the ECU retards the ignition when knock is detected, however, it is very slow to advance the timing again. An ECU reset will restore the car to factory default settings. This will remove any stored fault codes and restore ignition advance. It is possible to reset the ECU by following these steps:

Turn ignition OFF

Connect Read Memory Connectors & Test Mode Connectors
(jumper 5) [black connectors] – (jumper 6) [green connectors]

Turn ignition ON (engine off)

Engine Check lamp turns on

Depress accelerator pedal completely

Then return it to the half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds

Release pedal completely

Start engine

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected - Check ECU Code

If no fault is detected - drive the car sensible for a couple of minutes
i.e. until warm (do not run tall & do not thrash it!)

When the ECU has been reset the Check Engine Light will flash

Code is indicated by Pulsing lamp

If a fault is detected Check ECU Code

Turn ignition OFF & Disconnect Connectors

If there is a fault Check Appropriate Sensor