Decat Full System, Do i need a re-map?
#1
Decat Full System, Do i need a re-map?
Hi there, im a bit new to the scooby scene and i have a 97 wrx import, its got a hks filter and a full stainless system. I beleive its from the centre cat back. What i want to know is if i take out both cats will i need a remap? or will the lambda sensor adjust the air fuel ratio? obviosly i will need to put the cats back in for the mot, any help greatly appreciated. Daz
#2
No, You don't NEED to remap if you don't want to, although doing so will obviously make the best of the mods you've already got.
Just make sure you always run it on Optimax or SUL if you can't get Optimax and if I were you I'd use an octane booster too.
Also a knocklink would be a worthwhile investment on an import car.
Rich
Just make sure you always run it on Optimax or SUL if you can't get Optimax and if I were you I'd use an octane booster too.
Also a knocklink would be a worthwhile investment on an import car.
Rich
#3
Yeah i have been running on optimax and i reset the ECU when i bought it, i am after a knock link but am unsure of where to get one. I am thinking of running it on Optimax and a booster now, would it be a good idea to reset the ECU agian so that it is always set to run a higher octane, i beleive if you use less it retards the ignition but once its retarded will it automatically advance the ignition to cope with the O/B? I understand what you say about the remap and i do plan to do one in due time, but i want to have a decat a front mounted intercooler and uprated fuel pump and injectors and then map it. thanks for your help Daz
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The safest thing for you to do would be to get the knocklink first, and closely monitor the activity with your current setup. It's possible you might need a remap anyway, if the knocklink activity goes anywhere near the ambers...
Next, do the exhaust, and again closely monitor the knocklink activity. The extra flow the exhaust will provide may add a couple of psi to your max boost, and allow the boost to come on earlier in the rev range. This might cause some extra activity on the knocklink. And if the knocklink was "busy" before the decat, it ain't gonna be any quieter after...!
A remap would allow you to run your car without the need for octane booster by adjusting your fuelling map. The extra boost could be kept (or increased slightly) by adjusting the boost map. And any left over knocklink activity could be ironed out by adjusting the ignition timing map.
Having said that, an EcuTek remap isn't an option for your MY. Does the ScoobyECU cover your MY? If not, your only other option would be a replacement ECU...
Next, do the exhaust, and again closely monitor the knocklink activity. The extra flow the exhaust will provide may add a couple of psi to your max boost, and allow the boost to come on earlier in the rev range. This might cause some extra activity on the knocklink. And if the knocklink was "busy" before the decat, it ain't gonna be any quieter after...!
A remap would allow you to run your car without the need for octane booster by adjusting your fuelling map. The extra boost could be kept (or increased slightly) by adjusting the boost map. And any left over knocklink activity could be ironed out by adjusting the ignition timing map.
Having said that, an EcuTek remap isn't an option for your MY. Does the ScoobyECU cover your MY? If not, your only other option would be a replacement ECU...
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Sorry, didn't read you second post before submitting mine...
Resetting the ECU won't make much difference, as even with Optimax and booster, you're still not getting the RON level up to the level the ECU is expecting, so not long after a reset, the timing will probably be retarded to cater for the lower octane level.
You can get a knocklink from here...
Resetting the ECU won't make much difference, as even with Optimax and booster, you're still not getting the RON level up to the level the ECU is expecting, so not long after a reset, the timing will probably be retarded to cater for the lower octane level.
You can get a knocklink from here...
#6
So Should i use an octane booster at the mo? and if so will i need to reset the ECU? i wasnt sure what you meant about the remap, isnt mine remappable then? how much is a replacement ecu then? Cheers mate
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You should definitely be using octane booster at the moment. Your ECU is expecting a fuel with a substantially higher octane level than Optimax. Even with booster, you might not be high enough. That's why the knocklink is worth its weight in gold.
The resetting of the ECU is mainly useful for early UK models, as the ECUs were quick to retard the ignition, but not as quick to re-advance.
Your ECU, as it stands at the moment, could be saving your engine by retarding the ignition. If you keep resetting it, it will simply start from scratch and retard the ignition back to where it was before you reset it (that's my understanding of how it works anyway...)
Replacement ECUs aren't particularly cheap. The ScoobyECU is, but as I said, I don't know if it covers your MY. I think it does. I have a feeling it's the MY98s that are stuck in between EcuTek remaps (MY99 onwards) and ScoobyECU chips.
The resetting of the ECU is mainly useful for early UK models, as the ECUs were quick to retard the ignition, but not as quick to re-advance.
Your ECU, as it stands at the moment, could be saving your engine by retarding the ignition. If you keep resetting it, it will simply start from scratch and retard the ignition back to where it was before you reset it (that's my understanding of how it works anyway...)
Replacement ECUs aren't particularly cheap. The ScoobyECU is, but as I said, I don't know if it covers your MY. I think it does. I have a feeling it's the MY98s that are stuck in between EcuTek remaps (MY99 onwards) and ScoobyECU chips.
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Also come to think of it i have no guages, im looking to get a boost guage and a knock link, should i get a Lamda link or an AFR guage? i was also thinking of an oil temp guage? what would you recomend?
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There's no right or wrong answer to that. It's all down to personal preference. My car's a lightly modified UK MY00, and I personally have a knocklink, Autometer boost gauge, and Autometer AFR gauge. Your choice of AFR gauge will depend on what you want it to display, and where you plan on mounting it.
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