How do i replace my cambelt
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From: oustide the asylum?
No peg holes and no marks on the block. There are niches cut in the rear belt cover though.
Briefly:
Marks on the 4 cam pulleys line up with each other when everything is in the right place. Then it's a case of releasing the tensioner and removing one of the idler pulleys and finally removing the belt. 3 cams will stay still, and one will want to move round.
I've only done an early classic Scoob cambelt, so this may change for later cars.
Get some proper instructions... there is an early classic workshop manual PDF download somewhere if all else fails.
Also the later cambelt tensioners are prone to failure if they're not reset in the correct way.
[Edited by dnb - 1/17/2004 4:42:23 PM]
Briefly:
Marks on the 4 cam pulleys line up with each other when everything is in the right place. Then it's a case of releasing the tensioner and removing one of the idler pulleys and finally removing the belt. 3 cams will stay still, and one will want to move round.
I've only done an early classic Scoob cambelt, so this may change for later cars.
Get some proper instructions... there is an early classic workshop manual PDF download somewhere if all else fails.
Also the later cambelt tensioners are prone to failure if they're not reset in the correct way.
[Edited by dnb - 1/17/2004 4:42:23 PM]
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Fcon Power Writer
Hmmm...
I have done a few
Before i start, i assume that you have carried out timing belt changes on other cars? if so then the subaru one shouldnt be a problem.
When you purchase a new belt, make sure it has 5 white markings on teh belt, each marking lines up with a timing mark on each pulley and will save you lots of time over a belt with none.
Right, on each pulley is two sets of marks... One single mark and then two marks together.
The single marks are to line up with the cut outs on the cam cover backings these are your timing marks, these are also the marks that line up with teh belt markings.
Then there are two single lines on the pulley that are roughly 3mm apart, these must be paralell with the adjacent pulley.
Ie. top pulley has two marks at the bottom of it, and the bottom pulley has two marks on the very top of it, the marks on both pulleys will line up together (will make more sense when you see the pulley face and marks that i am talking about).
The crank pulley has a timing mark on one of the pick ups on it, if you rotate the belt/pulleys you will see the mark, this must line up with either the mark on the belt or the timing mark just above the pulley on the oil pump.
i find the best thing to do is to buy a belt with markings on it, i line up the timing marks on the pulleys/covers before i remove the belt and then turn the crank back 1/4 of a turn, this means taht none of the cam pulleys are 'on cam' and wont be any tension.
I then remove the tensioner and teh belt.
I then refit the belt using the markings on the belt against the markings on the pulleys and refit the tensioner. Once the belt is retensioned i slowly rotate the crank/belt a full rotation and check that all the timing marks correspond correctly to the covers/marks..
Which brings me to my next point, on cars after 96/97 i do not reccomend re-use of the timing belt tensioner, the 97> tensioners are useless and often fail on reuse simulating the sound of a knocking engine, do yourself a favour and buy a new one.
If however you want to go through the nuisance of taking teh belt etc off again then you will need a vise to puch the piston in on the tensioner, this must be done very slowly and you must have a 2mm allen key to place into the tensioner to hold it closed. If you puch the piston in too fast it will break teh seal inside and be no use anyway.
IMHO if the old tensioner is reused, when you pull the allen key out to release the piston.. If the whole belt doesnt tighten up all the way round, throw it in the bin.
May have missed some bits, was only gonna be a quick reply PMSL!! Am off to Work :S
Rob
I have done a few
Before i start, i assume that you have carried out timing belt changes on other cars? if so then the subaru one shouldnt be a problem.
When you purchase a new belt, make sure it has 5 white markings on teh belt, each marking lines up with a timing mark on each pulley and will save you lots of time over a belt with none.
Right, on each pulley is two sets of marks... One single mark and then two marks together.
The single marks are to line up with the cut outs on the cam cover backings these are your timing marks, these are also the marks that line up with teh belt markings.
Then there are two single lines on the pulley that are roughly 3mm apart, these must be paralell with the adjacent pulley.
Ie. top pulley has two marks at the bottom of it, and the bottom pulley has two marks on the very top of it, the marks on both pulleys will line up together (will make more sense when you see the pulley face and marks that i am talking about).
The crank pulley has a timing mark on one of the pick ups on it, if you rotate the belt/pulleys you will see the mark, this must line up with either the mark on the belt or the timing mark just above the pulley on the oil pump.
i find the best thing to do is to buy a belt with markings on it, i line up the timing marks on the pulleys/covers before i remove the belt and then turn the crank back 1/4 of a turn, this means taht none of the cam pulleys are 'on cam' and wont be any tension.
I then remove the tensioner and teh belt.
I then refit the belt using the markings on the belt against the markings on the pulleys and refit the tensioner. Once the belt is retensioned i slowly rotate the crank/belt a full rotation and check that all the timing marks correspond correctly to the covers/marks..
Which brings me to my next point, on cars after 96/97 i do not reccomend re-use of the timing belt tensioner, the 97> tensioners are useless and often fail on reuse simulating the sound of a knocking engine, do yourself a favour and buy a new one.
If however you want to go through the nuisance of taking teh belt etc off again then you will need a vise to puch the piston in on the tensioner, this must be done very slowly and you must have a 2mm allen key to place into the tensioner to hold it closed. If you puch the piston in too fast it will break teh seal inside and be no use anyway.
IMHO if the old tensioner is reused, when you pull the allen key out to release the piston.. If the whole belt doesnt tighten up all the way round, throw it in the bin.
May have missed some bits, was only gonna be a quick reply PMSL!! Am off to Work :S
Rob
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Joined: Feb 1999
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Did mine a couple of weeks ago - no bother really, If you search you'll find a thread with some tips.
p.s. when tensioning the tensioner your supposed to do it vertically not horizontally (Subaru note) - so clamp a G clamp in the vice and use the G clamp.
Kevin.
p.s. when tensioning the tensioner your supposed to do it vertically not horizontally (Subaru note) - so clamp a G clamp in the vice and use the G clamp.
Kevin.
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