Some advice from STi owners sought
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Just bought a 57,000 miles grey,good price.But........two questions(and yes ...I know the FAQ section by heart).
Firsty.........should I reset the ECU?... and if so can I do it by just disconnecting the battery for an hour.?
Second.....is octane booster required?
My thoughts were that if I reset the ECU then drive on Optimax......that should do it...............but should I use Octane Booster.......suggestions???? plus and minus uses?
Please help as I"ve read alot on this and I"m more confused now than ever........alot of conflicting information.
Cheers fellow Scoobsters.
Firsty.........should I reset the ECU?... and if so can I do it by just disconnecting the battery for an hour.?
Second.....is octane booster required?
My thoughts were that if I reset the ECU then drive on Optimax......that should do it...............but should I use Octane Booster.......suggestions???? plus and minus uses?
Please help as I"ve read alot on this and I"m more confused now than ever........alot of conflicting information.
Cheers fellow Scoobsters.
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From: Kingston ( Surrey, not Jamaica )
Presume you have a classic shape Sti ( ie, import )
you should be on optimax + booster for max 'safety'. Optimax on it's own *may* be ok, but without some method of detecting the level of det you are getting, it's an expensive experience being proved wrong. Get a knocklink at the first opportunity, then reasess whether you need the booster.
Steve
you should be on optimax + booster for max 'safety'. Optimax on it's own *may* be ok, but without some method of detecting the level of det you are getting, it's an expensive experience being proved wrong. Get a knocklink at the first opportunity, then reasess whether you need the booster.
Steve
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my94,
Don't worry to much about octane booster. I have run my MY99 STI Type-R V5 on nothing more than Shell Optimax for the last 18 months. You will hear much conflicting advice about booster on here and I think I am in a minority in not using octane booster. If you want piece of mind then use it, but don't think its a necessity.
Just enjoy...
Craig.
Don't worry to much about octane booster. I have run my MY99 STI Type-R V5 on nothing more than Shell Optimax for the last 18 months. You will hear much conflicting advice about booster on here and I think I am in a minority in not using octane booster. If you want piece of mind then use it, but don't think its a necessity.
Just enjoy...
Craig.
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Common opinion seems, for import cars,to be something like :
non-sti wrx requires Optimax. Some people recommend OB.
Sti Wrx - Optimax - for safe running OB is very often prescribed for these.
Also Knocklink seems to be a very good, relatively cheap, safety precaution for detecting the main cause of failures in JDM cars, ie detonation.
Some people seem to run cars on NUL quite happily without problems, some people have blow-ups very quickly.
Search through some of the threads here and you'll see that fuel / detonation / blow-ups type threads are regularly discussed.
non-sti wrx requires Optimax. Some people recommend OB.
Sti Wrx - Optimax - for safe running OB is very often prescribed for these.
Also Knocklink seems to be a very good, relatively cheap, safety precaution for detecting the main cause of failures in JDM cars, ie detonation.
Some people seem to run cars on NUL quite happily without problems, some people have blow-ups very quickly.
Search through some of the threads here and you'll see that fuel / detonation / blow-ups type threads are regularly discussed.
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Go for NF.
Most people use between 1/4and 1/3 of a bottle per tank, you can get them for 12 quid. At an extra 3 quid per tank its not going to break the bank.....any increase in octane is a good thing.
As an additional plus, you will get a slightly higher bhp as these cars are set to run on 100 RON. The 98 RON we have makes the ECU want to constantly retard the ignition.
Most people use between 1/4and 1/3 of a bottle per tank, you can get them for 12 quid. At an extra 3 quid per tank its not going to break the bank.....any increase in octane is a good thing.
As an additional plus, you will get a slightly higher bhp as these cars are set to run on 100 RON. The 98 RON we have makes the ECU want to constantly retard the ignition.
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