HI all, just a quick question I had a set of UEL GT spec headers and up pipe on my old impreza and they had GT stamped on them , I have aquired what I thought was another set to put on my 2006 STI but these are branded SSI they look identical in every other way apart from the logo.
So my question is are they all made by the same company or have I got some dodgey copy ones?
Cheers.

 

from what I can remember ssi are the same, gt-spec, rcm etc etc

 

Yes I belive so, tomei too I think

 

All same **** will crack eventually.

Kinugawa also come branded with ssi same as rest

 

Thanks for the info guys!!

 

As they are not as thick and heavy as the cast OEM ones...obviously if they are all ****e everyone's wasted money on them...or more likely people keep running A/L through them!!
What do you have fitted out of curiosity?

 

These ones which are being discussed

Would never buy another set,

Can get a custom set made better design and thicker material for £6/700 with a lifetime warranty,

Also i'm not silly and expect any header to take anti lag for any length of time,

Real anti lag just wrecks stuff,

 

I can get these for £850,

They come with warranty they crack send em back

 

why not equal length

 

Coz dat Burble Bro Innit !

 

But really tho, guy can make any kind equal length or unequal, twin scroll, single scroll, EWG etc.

Made from any grade you wanna pay for 304,316,321 Stainless

Next time mine crack these are going on

 

What grade are you going to go for? I'm thinking 316 would be a happy medium unless 321 is cost effective?

Good oxidation resistance in intermittent service to 870°C and in continuous service to 925°C. Continuous use of 316 in the 425-860°C range is not recommended if subsequent aqueous corrosion resistance is important. Grade 316L is more resistant to carbide precipitation and can be used in the above temperature range. Grade 316H has higher strength at elevated temperatures and is sometimes used for structural and pressure-containing applications at temperatures above about 500°C.

 

For my needs and due to there being a lifetime warranty i would stick with 304, been told they use thicker walled tube than they rcm type so more resistant to cracking,

Money no object then 321 always but why waste cash if cracking is covered

 

Careful guys. You are beginning to sound like me......

I'd avoid 304 and at a minimum go for 316. Yes cracking is covered but with that amount of welds I'd feel it would be asking for trouble.....

Can you not get mandrel bent ones? There really is no need for that many welds on it..... other than that it looks good.

 

It was after reading your comments and doing a bit more research into why the killer bees are so expensive,

Guy claims he hasn't had to replace any of his 304 so far which is why he advised them, of course bragging rights are increased with better grade agree with that.

As far as the bends go i'm not so sure but for the price i cant find any better so far,

I did find a familiar brand from back in my glanza days you may know of,

WEPR have these headers made of 304 for £950 posted, 316 for £1250 and 321 for £1500 but no uppipe which is a pain.

 

WEPR is good kit, I have their externally gated td04 kit on my glanza at the moment.

However without an up pipe that is seriously expensive......

I don't know why more don't use v band up pipes, I've spent many happier hour changing up pipe gaskets and it's so simple to fix!

I honestly would spend the little extra and go with the 316, yes the manifolds might be guaranteed and you send them back blah blah blah, but can you be bothered with the hassle of stripping them off etc? I know I couldn't be and would rather spend extra.

 

Also on the killer bee units there are 6 welds in total.

The ones you posted a pic of earlier have 45.... it usually will fail on a weld or collector, so having all those weak points would put me off. Why can't it be formed in one piece or at least some of the welds removed?

 

Yea not cheap from WEPR

Not too hard to remove manifold really either, but do run risk of ****ing threads if ur on and off all time,


Yea v-band is the way forward,

 

As far as the weld go yes it's a potential weak spot but if welded properly then just as strong as rest of header,

I do agree tho the odds of one of the 45 going are far larger than one of the 6 haha

 

It's not too hard to remove no. But I wouldn't fancy it and really couldn't be bothered with the hassle I'd rather spend a little more for peace of mind.

There is a lot of sections of that manifold that could be formed in one piece. I reckon you could easily half the amount of welds on that. It will also flow better with less butt joints on it....