Help with removing and replacing crank pulley?
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From: Leeds, West Yorkshire
I'm looking to do the pulleys this afternoon and wondered whether the crank pulley would come off without needing to use a puller?
I have one, but I'm not sure it can be done while the radiator is still in place.
I also wanted to ask people's feelings on the "put it in 5th and have someone sit with a foot on the brake" method to loosen and tighten the pulley bolt. Seems a popular method but is it safe?
I have one, but I'm not sure it can be done while the radiator is still in place.
I also wanted to ask people's feelings on the "put it in 5th and have someone sit with a foot on the brake" method to loosen and tighten the pulley bolt. Seems a popular method but is it safe?
Yup, used that method with no problems before, but there are a couple of other ideas you can try...
Long bar on the bolt and apply torque, then hit with a heavy hammer to shock the bolt loose. OR, buy a hammer action gun (the type used for removing wheel nuts) and use that. Beware, these do not last very long, unless you get the industrial sized ones that run of the mains. Using the hammer action gun can only be done with the rad removed.
Once the bolt is loose, a few taps with a copper mallet should release it from the crank.
Long bar on the bolt and apply torque, then hit with a heavy hammer to shock the bolt loose. OR, buy a hammer action gun (the type used for removing wheel nuts) and use that. Beware, these do not last very long, unless you get the industrial sized ones that run of the mains. Using the hammer action gun can only be done with the rad removed.
Once the bolt is loose, a few taps with a copper mallet should release it from the crank.
Just don't drop the allen key in the inspection/timing hole as that would ruin your day. There is a small rubber bung on the top left hand side - if looking at the front of the car - in the engine bell housing. It's hard to see and access with the intercooler on, it's down in the gap between the lower left of the intercooler and the intake manifold. I think you can access the flywheel from under the car too, there is a small plate/cover that is bolted to where the engine and transmission meet, I'm not 100% sure but you may be able to remove this plate - 2 small bolts - and use something to hold the flywheel in position. Google Impreza timing hole or inspection hole for an idea of what the rubber bung (top of engine) and metal plate (under engine) look like.
Never been a fan of forcing against the transmission with the car in gear method, the crank bolt is torqued pretty tight. You could use a crank pulley holder tool or make a DIY one with a peice of wood and bolts to wedge the wood against the floor and stop the crank turning.
HTH.
Never been a fan of forcing against the transmission with the car in gear method, the crank bolt is torqued pretty tight. You could use a crank pulley holder tool or make a DIY one with a peice of wood and bolts to wedge the wood against the floor and stop the crank turning.
HTH.
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I'm having second thoughts about the car in gear method as it would involve some turning of the engine backwards.
Also not confident the jamming something in the flywheel teeth won't lead to disaster....
What size are the bolt holes on the pulley? I'm thinking two bolts inserted and a massive screwdriver or breaker bar wedged through them might leave enough space to get a socket on the nut.
Also not confident the jamming something in the flywheel teeth won't lead to disaster....
What size are the bolt holes on the pulley? I'm thinking two bolts inserted and a massive screwdriver or breaker bar wedged through them might leave enough space to get a socket on the nut.
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You wont damage the flywheel teeth but if you dont want to try it,then ..........
Disconnect crank sensor.
Place breaker bar and socket on crank pulley bolt.
Turn clockwise and wedge bar against chassis rail or floor depending on length of bar.
Flick the ignition key to the start position and it will crack the pulley bolt loose.
Mick
Disconnect crank sensor.
Place breaker bar and socket on crank pulley bolt.
Turn clockwise and wedge bar against chassis rail or floor depending on length of bar.
Flick the ignition key to the start position and it will crack the pulley bolt loose.
Mick
^ Thats an option. Not the method I would do it thats for sure but many ways to skin a cat I guess.
As for the crank pulley bolt holes, measure the holes to make sure but I think something like an M10 or M12 bolt should fit snug.
As for the crank pulley bolt holes, measure the holes to make sure but I think something like an M10 or M12 bolt should fit snug.
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