Wide band AFR readings
#1
Wide band AFR readings
Guys had a afr gauge fitted at Scoobyspares. It's the innovate LC-1, I'd like to know from you guys who have it fitted what sort of readings you get? What's good and bad in terms of he readings?
On the drive home it was sitting at 22.4 until I pressed on the throttle the reading would drop them jump back up to 22.4... When on boost it dropped as low as 7.5 but very quickly jumped back up to the 22.4..
Sorry for the novice terms used lol but does this sound about right?
All thoughts and knowledge welcome
Martin
This is what I bought
On the drive home it was sitting at 22.4 until I pressed on the throttle the reading would drop them jump back up to 22.4... When on boost it dropped as low as 7.5 but very quickly jumped back up to the 22.4..
Sorry for the novice terms used lol but does this sound about right?
All thoughts and knowledge welcome
Martin
This is what I bought
#3
Now it's litterally been installed, no calibration done and not set up off the lap top does this make a difference?
Martin
Ps if you see my pic it's sat at 22.4 that's on idle
Last edited by M2RTXhawkeye; 25 November 2015 at 09:07 PM.
#4
Scooby Regular
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Where do you have your lambda sensor for it?
Readings dont seem right mate. 22 on idle could be correct though ive never paid much attention to my toucan display on idle.
Whats it like on part throttle does it stay steady or jumping about?
7 is mega ritch on boost.
Readings dont seem right mate. 22 on idle could be correct though ive never paid much attention to my toucan display on idle.
Whats it like on part throttle does it stay steady or jumping about?
7 is mega ritch on boost.
Last edited by **jay**; 25 November 2015 at 09:17 PM.
#5
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the only time you should see a 20 is when the throttlebody is shut, as in engine braking,
otherwise normal driving should be around 15. 7's on boost as Jay say's is very very rich and a quick check of a spark plug would show wet if it were overfueling to that extent. I can't see a car running at those extremes so guess it would be something to do with the reading.
Trev
otherwise normal driving should be around 15. 7's on boost as Jay say's is very very rich and a quick check of a spark plug would show wet if it were overfueling to that extent. I can't see a car running at those extremes so guess it would be something to do with the reading.
Trev
#6
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where is the sensor placed? 22.4 should only be seen when warm and going along with the throttle is closed. crusing about you should be seeing around 14.7 and on boost 11 isnt to bad but much lower like 7.5 is very rich and bore wash territory. the sensor must be calibrated in free air.
#7
Guys the sensor is at the top of the downpipe, I'd say around 3/4" away from the turbo.
When at a constant speed at 79mph it was 22.4, when I braked or pressed on the reading jumped around but again settled back at 22.4... I hit 1bar of boost then backed off saw the readings in the 7's then came straight back up to the 22.4 hope this makes sense... I'm wondering wether it needs plugging in to change the settings?
Martin
When at a constant speed at 79mph it was 22.4, when I braked or pressed on the reading jumped around but again settled back at 22.4... I hit 1bar of boost then backed off saw the readings in the 7's then came straight back up to the 22.4 hope this makes sense... I'm wondering wether it needs plugging in to change the settings?
Martin
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#10
Scooby Regular
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Ah cool yeh thats correct place then, not sure if they need calibrated as never used one before, my afr readings are through my syvecs and toucan. Id speak with who ever mapped your car mate and see if they can take a look, either that its mapped realy rich id not be wanting to be running close to 7 as like said before it will not be too good over fuelling so much.
Probably gauge not reading correctly though.
Probably gauge not reading correctly though.
#11
Ah cool yeh thats correct place then, not sure if they need calibrated as never used one before, my afr readings are through my syvecs and toucan. Id speak with who ever mapped your car mate and see if they can take a look, either that its mapped realy rich id not be wanting to be running close to 7 as like said before it will not be too good over fuelling so much.
Probably gauge not reading correctly though.
Probably gauge not reading correctly though.
Martin
#12
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it needs calibrating in free air. pull the sensor from the down pipe. unplug it from the loom. turn on ignition for a few seconds then off. plug the sensor back into the loom and turn on ignition again.. the gauge should read CAL for a few seconds. turn ignition off. put the sensor back into the downpipe, without unplugging if u can.. then ur calibrated. seems to me that the sensor has calibrated in the downpipe. so it thinks 14.7 is free air... hence the 22.4 when crusing.
#13
it needs calibrating in free air. pull the sensor from the down pipe. unplug it from the loom. turn on ignition for a few seconds then off. plug the sensor back into the loom and turn on ignition again.. the gauge should read CAL for a few seconds. turn ignition off. put the sensor back into the downpipe, without unplugging if u can.. then ur calibrated. seems to me that the sensor has calibrated in the downpipe. so it thinks 14.7 is free air... hence the 22.4 when crusing.
Martin
#15
Like said,is easy to do,instruction book here if you don't have it.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-1_Manual.pdf
Martin
#16
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Those are the default high and low reading Martin, on cruise and idle you'll be looking for 14.7's give or take, On full boost you should be seeing high 10's to low 11's depending on the map, have they wired the calibration button into the gauge or not?....also the LED as that gives you the flashes for codes and tells you if it's callibrated.
As scoobyricht says, The sensor should have been callibrated in free air prior to being put in the down pipe
As scoobyricht says, The sensor should have been callibrated in free air prior to being put in the down pipe
Last edited by The Pink Ninja; 27 November 2015 at 04:07 PM.
#17
Those are the default high and low reading Martin, on cruise and idle you'll be looking for 14.7's give or take, On full boost you should be seeing high 10's to low 11's depending on the map, have they wired the calibration button into the gauge or not?....also the LED as that gives you the flashes for codes and tells you if it's callibrated.
As scoobyricht says, The sensor should have been callibrated in free air prior to being put in the down pipe
As scoobyricht says, The sensor should have been callibrated in free air prior to being put in the down pipe
I was going to see Andrew Carr but he also gave me the same instruction as scoobyricht so when it stops raining I'm going to have a look at doing it myself.
Martin
#18
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The remote looking thing with led is the lc-1. I have the lc-2 which came with a button,think that is a menu button for when connected to laptop? The lc-2 comes with serial port for use with logworks,not sure if the lc-1 does?
You should be good to go and start getting the correct AFR readings once you calibrate
You should be good to go and start getting the correct AFR readings once you calibrate
#19
The remote looking thing with led is the lc-1. I have the lc-2 which came with a button,think that is a menu button for when connected to laptop? The lc-2 comes with serial port for use with logworks,not sure if the lc-1 does?
You should be good to go and start getting the correct AFR readings once you calibrate
You should be good to go and start getting the correct AFR readings once you calibrate
Martin
#20
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Yes you will get a constant reading on WOT,it will read high numbers(lean) when coming off throttle,and on cruise you will see it bouncing around a bit as the ecu will try and target 14.7
The better the tune then the closer to stoic(14.7) so won't bounce as much
I'm connecting up my wideband this weekend but replacing my narrowband with it so will tune my afr's as close as I can,if that makes sense lol,had a few beers haha so not the best explanation in the world
The better the tune then the closer to stoic(14.7) so won't bounce as much
I'm connecting up my wideband this weekend but replacing my narrowband with it so will tune my afr's as close as I can,if that makes sense lol,had a few beers haha so not the best explanation in the world
#21
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This is how I did mine it all came in the box, allows you to reset and recalibrate it and the LED is useful for fault codes.
It wasn't calibrated gaz before fitting, which button mate? There's the remote looking thing with a green light wired under the steering column?
I was going to see Andrew Carr but he also gave me the same instruction as scoobyricht so when it stops raining I'm going to have a look at doing it myself.
Martin
I was going to see Andrew Carr but he also gave me the same instruction as scoobyricht so when it stops raining I'm going to have a look at doing it myself.
Martin