So I thought that today I'd complete a simple task of replacing my rear disc and pads.

Caliper came off fine but the disc is having none of it. Used the prescribed method of winding it off with a pair of bolts. Got about 1 cm off, just clearing the hub nut, by turning the bolts slightly in turn. Then it stuck. It's wiggle free but won't move more than 1cm away. Both bolts ended up stripped the disc threads when I tried to wind them further. Subaru in there wisdom decided to fit disc shields, so you can't am even purchase on the disc.

Any ideas what to try? It appears that it's stuck to the handbrake mechanism somehow (that's my best guess). Handbrake is off (tried it on but no difference). I don't have access to a blow torch to heat the disc up. Only saving grace is that it's the first side I attempted.

 

Does the disc rotate ok? sounds like it is catching on the handbrake shoes, I would pull it towards you and whack it with a hammer. Rotate again and keep working at it till it comes off.
That is the way i have got brake drums off for years and same principle really.

 

Rubber mallet time

 

Been smashing it about for hours with a rubber mallet Can get it evenly off about 1cm then that's it. Should the disc/hub rotate? I assumed that the diff would cause the other wheel to turn also (unless the rear is "open" on the WRX). There is a little bit of rotational play, but not much. I've read that the handbrake can be adjusted by winding it back with a screwdriver? I think that I've found the rubber cover on the backing plate but there is no way that I can see inside by lying on my back under the car.

This was supposed to be a nice quick job.....

 

Have you wound off the handbrake adjuster on the back of the hub fully? If it's only coming off so far I'd imagine the shoes are catching on the lip and twisting in, jamming the disc at that point.

 

No, that's the stage that I'm at. It's impossible to see into the hole when I've on my back, under the car, so trying to do it by feel. Which way does the adjuster need to be turn to loosed the shoes - from the bottom pushing away from the car, or pulling it back up towards the car?

 

I cant remember which way they rotate but if you put a flat head screwdriver in there then you can adjust it, try both ways and it should come off.

 

I can't remember which way it was to loosen it (possibly up, but then the alternative is down so that's not much help!)...if it's reasonably tight then it shouldn't take too many turns of the adjuster to lock the pads to the drum, at which point you won't be able to rotate the disc and you'll know that way tightens it...the other way will loosen it. That's the way I did it when I did mine not long ago, I just reasoned that it was going to be one of two ways!

 

pull the cover off the handbrake inside the car, you'll see a small 10mm nut, loosen the nut off and this'll slacken the handbrake off fully

 

I'll try the interior way first, reckon that will be easier!

 

it was for me - i was the same as you not knowing how many turns i had done on the ratchet so i thought id go straight for the jugular - plus when you're done you can tighten the handbrake a bit more so you have less travel - i am now on full hold at 5 clicks rather than subarus recommended 7-8

 

Did the interior - no difference. Because the adjustment hole at the bottom of the backing plate is right by the trailing arms and knuckle, it's very difficult to see what you are doing and get a screwdriver onto the winder.

Managed to do it in the end by pulling the disc off as much as I could and getting to the adjuster between the disc and backing plate. You need to wind it DOWN when looking towards the car.

However, it transpired that the real reason it was stuck was because some grease-monkey had made a complete abortion of trying to replace the brakes previously. There were at least 3 springs missing from the hand-brake mechanism - including both shoe retaining springs. This meant that the shoes were pushing away from the backing plate and trapping the disc. God knows how I am going to fit them. Still, it looks like it's always been like that since I've had it and I can live without a handbrake - definitely a job for someone else though!

Finally, someone has managed to round the heads on both the pad retaining bolts on the caliper - joy. Not sure yet how I am going to get those out either.

 

As stated , you need to unwind the adjuster wheel for the shoe's ... Small flat head , spray a bit penetration oil or wd40 into the hole .. You need to push the disc back on fully now before you start as everything will be twisted inside from your abuse good luck

 

The pad retaining bolts on the rear (making a large assumption of it being a new age as I'm on the mobile site), should just be a punch out job, no unscrewing required.

 

If your backing plates are not to ropey then there's an arrow stamped onto the backing plate which indicates the direction to adjust the winders up inside. To slacken them off wind the opposite way to the direction of the arrow.

 

Managed to get the shoe retaining springs back on in the end. Quite fiddly as you really need narrow nose pliers, and I almost lost an eye when one pinged off.... Lesson learnt there! Silly design - would be better if it juts used a flat head bolt from inside the drum, with a washer and bolt on the outside of the backing plate.

Gave everything a good coating of copper grease and now winding adjuster moves freely. Everything was very seized up. I think that the biggest issue with removing the discs is that the handbrake shoes have worn the inside of the discs and formed a lip that they were getting caught on.

 

Ah, OK. That would be great if that's the case as I was thinking that I need to buy some new calipers otherwise. Odd that both the retaining pins had Phillips heads on them though. Maybe someone has fitted non-Subaru pins? I didn't want to try punching them out in case they were threaded.


*Yes, Newage Bug.

 

They tap out