AFR Meter? - Any use ??
23 January 2008, 01:38 PM
#1
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AFR Meter? - Any use ??
Will I get any value out of one of these?
What do they do can they moitor anything worthwhile and are they straight forward to fit
What do they do can they moitor anything worthwhile and are they straight forward to fit
23 January 2008, 01:40 PM
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They monitor your rear view mirror for classics and then automatically initiate the left indicator 
lol
have a peek here Browser Warning
lol
have a peek here Browser Warning
23 January 2008, 01:58 PM
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pmsl @ dazza. i had 1 and all i can say is it looked good in the dark. Did help also though when i had some "running" issues.
23 January 2008, 02:01 PM
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They monitor your rear view mirror for classics and then automatically initiate the left indicator
lol
have a peek here Browser Warning
lol
have a peek here Browser Warning
I think NOT.......
23 January 2008, 02:47 PM
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I'm sure Frayz will be along soon...
He'd say yes, one of the most useful gauges you can get, with regards to protecting your engine...
Incase you've forgotten, see the last thread you asked about gauges....
https://www.scoobynet.com/essex-scoo...her-gauge.html
He'd say yes, one of the most useful gauges you can get, with regards to protecting your engine...
Incase you've forgotten, see the last thread you asked about gauges....
https://www.scoobynet.com/essex-scoo...her-gauge.html
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23 January 2008, 02:54 PM
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I'm sure Frayz will be along soon...
He'd say yes, one of the most useful gauges you can get, with regards to protecting your engine...
Incase you've forgotten, see the last thread you asked about gauges....
https://www.scoobynet.com/essex-scoo...her-gauge.html
He'd say yes, one of the most useful gauges you can get, with regards to protecting your engine...
Incase you've forgotten, see the last thread you asked about gauges....
https://www.scoobynet.com/essex-scoo...her-gauge.html
Thank's I couldn't be bothered to search for what was originally said
23 January 2008, 03:45 PM
#9
Basically, an AFR monitors the Air/Fuel ratio from the exhaust gases. Ideally, the AFR should be showing "Stoich" (ideal ratio) to slightly rich, If it's showing lean, there's a good chance that the engine may be pinking (knocking)
It is a good gauge to have, I put one in my old classic, and Spally kindly put one in my new scoob.
It is a good gauge to have, I put one in my old classic, and Spally kindly put one in my new scoob.
23 January 2008, 06:48 PM
#12
Quotes from the old thread... same applies to new thread 
Wideband and ACT are the most useful mate.
Dont bother with a narrowband AFR as theyre not work a carrot, also dont bother with athe PSI data monitor as again these are pretty useless too. IMO.
The wideband, act and knocklink will be the ones that stop you blowing your motor... everything else will be too late as they will show you after the damage is done.
Dont bother with a narrowband AFR as theyre not work a carrot, also dont bother with athe PSI data monitor as again these are pretty useless too. IMO.
The wideband, act and knocklink will be the ones that stop you blowing your motor... everything else will be too late as they will show you after the damage is done.
ACT (air charge temp)
This is mounted in your inlet manifold and gives you an accurate measurement of the temps coming out of your intercooler. Botom line is the lower the better. If it starts to go over 40 deg c its less than ideal and if its clipping the 50 deg c then id be taking my foot off the gas.
Stationary after a long run, you'll see heatsoaked coolers put out temps of over 70deg c. Although with an efficient cooler like the sti topmount, these will return to normal after approx 500yds of smooth driving. Bigger topmounts like the APS and ebay item will not return once hot, this is due to their cumbersome bulky endtanks and possible poor cores that do not reject the heat once soaked. A fmic does not have this problem as it is not subject to any heatsoak.
The wideband lambda will give you a very accurate reading of your AFR (air/fuel ratio). Stoich is 14.7:1, you will see approx this reading at idle.
This means that a ratio of 14.7 = 14.7 parts air to one part fuel.
Its easy to see how for example a ratio of 10:1 would be richer and 17:1 would be leaner.
On boost however youre looking at approx very high 10s but more ideally about 11.4ish. These values will chnage if youre using Methanol or other race gas mixes too.
The wideband is a fantastic tuning tool and will be the gauge that if any (except knocklink) will stop you from blowing your motor.
Neil,
They might look nice because ive made em look like that. But i assure you i understand every gauge in my car and why theyre there... how many others can say the same?
This is mounted in your inlet manifold and gives you an accurate measurement of the temps coming out of your intercooler. Botom line is the lower the better. If it starts to go over 40 deg c its less than ideal and if its clipping the 50 deg c then id be taking my foot off the gas.
Stationary after a long run, you'll see heatsoaked coolers put out temps of over 70deg c. Although with an efficient cooler like the sti topmount, these will return to normal after approx 500yds of smooth driving. Bigger topmounts like the APS and ebay item will not return once hot, this is due to their cumbersome bulky endtanks and possible poor cores that do not reject the heat once soaked. A fmic does not have this problem as it is not subject to any heatsoak.
The wideband lambda will give you a very accurate reading of your AFR (air/fuel ratio). Stoich is 14.7:1, you will see approx this reading at idle.
This means that a ratio of 14.7 = 14.7 parts air to one part fuel.
Its easy to see how for example a ratio of 10:1 would be richer and 17:1 would be leaner.
On boost however youre looking at approx very high 10s but more ideally about 11.4ish. These values will chnage if youre using Methanol or other race gas mixes too.
The wideband is a fantastic tuning tool and will be the gauge that if any (except knocklink) will stop you from blowing your motor.
Neil,
They might look nice because ive made em look like that. But i assure you i understand every gauge in my car and why theyre there... how many others can say the same?
EGTs are onlt really useful to know if youre mapping and more importantly the WOT top end. WOT for prolonged periods are only really where EGTs become an issue. Also if the car is mapped for a customer, chances are it will be mapped with safety in mind and will be slightly richer up to to keep EGTs down.
I have an EGT gauge and in the late 10s AFR i barely get 850 deg c on the EGTs. When im running mid 11s i canb see upwards of 940 deg c.
Inconnel exhaust valves in my new build should mean my EGT are even less of an issue.
Bottom line is that the EGTs are not going to be a beneficial to the avearge user as that of the wideband, knocklink and ACT.
I have an EGT gauge and in the late 10s AFR i barely get 850 deg c on the EGTs. When im running mid 11s i canb see upwards of 940 deg c.
Inconnel exhaust valves in my new build should mean my EGT are even less of an issue.
Bottom line is that the EGTs are not going to be a beneficial to the avearge user as that of the wideband, knocklink and ACT.
24 January 2008, 12:34 PM
#13
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only joking mate, would not have a clue how to fit them.
forgot to tell you about that one. When a certain company put the new engine in they seemed to missed connecting that back up. So it just need connecting again.
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