Classic help
#1
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Classic help
Hi ive got a late version (5) classic facelift on x reg
When driving on constant speed cruising more low speeds u get this forwards/back motion like maybe one cylinder not right... Changed plugs / changed coil pack ( original brand new) still there ... Im tryig source either new or very good quality second hand leads
It does feel on the lower end little laggy ... ? Any ideas
When driving on constant speed cruising more low speeds u get this forwards/back motion like maybe one cylinder not right... Changed plugs / changed coil pack ( original brand new) still there ... Im tryig source either new or very good quality second hand leads
It does feel on the lower end little laggy ... ? Any ideas
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I intend on keeping quite a while its uk spec prodrive basically standard very clean 110k so nt been sat by all means .... These ecus how are they measuring air intake volume ???
I would like to go down that route of another ecu .......
I want to reach 350/400bhp but not sure what i going need to reach it .... Would like her to be little louder and pop on overrun and downshift little ..... Miss that from both fiesta zetec turbo and the mg zr turbo i built
I would like to go down that route of another ecu .......
I want to reach 350/400bhp but not sure what i going need to reach it .... Would like her to be little louder and pop on overrun and downshift little ..... Miss that from both fiesta zetec turbo and the mg zr turbo i built
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#12
ecu is the best place, the brain of the car! alcatek is good in that as u mention u would like the pops and bangs, antilag is an add on to this ecu and LC to.the ecu is capable of big power upgrades to so in the future u know the brains are there to deal with big power loads. oh and u get the toucan defi screen to at extra but looks pretty smart. alcateks about 850 the screen 300 i think.mark at thwaites tdr did mine, good chap and gives sound advice. one thing id say dont go above 350 unless u get stroker kit or its ££££££ thats where tdr racing comes in they keep it safe!.
Last edited by sssssteeeee; 10 January 2013 at 06:26 PM.
#13
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yep seems to be standard equipment on late classics,pulses as ecu switching from open /closed loop,if its bad then possible lambda sensor on its way out
you will probably have a ae802 ecu fitted as standard,swapping to the late 1999 ae801 may help reduce it and feels much better to drive with,
plug and play straight swap y7 stickered to e3 stickered ecu
you will probably have a ae802 ecu fitted as standard,swapping to the late 1999 ae801 may help reduce it and feels much better to drive with,
plug and play straight swap y7 stickered to e3 stickered ecu
#14
Is the CEL light on ? I dont know much i got a classic and my cel light pops up limits power and when goes off power back on. Done a manual diagnostics 2 long flashes followed by 2 short which is knock sensor if im correct, someone please correct me if im wrong .
Couz.
Couz.
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prodrive pink stickered ecu .... code on it wil be " S:P.." around 250hp and good hike in torque vs standard uk v5/6 equivalent.
http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/o...10331-1822.jpg
http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/o...10331-1822.jpg
#18
Ecu Specialist
The surging relates to the ecu adding and subtracting fuel on closed loop lambda control, some cars are far worse than others and yours seems to be one. To prove it unplug the lambda and then drive it in the same way, you "may" get a CEL but ignore that it will only have noticed the sensor is missing and it has no effect of the car's drivability.
if its stopped with the sensor unplugged then thats the reason.
Replacing the sensor then with a new one can help, its possible the existing one is a bit tired causing the ecu to over react.
It is possible that its just one of those cars though.
cheers
bob
if its stopped with the sensor unplugged then thats the reason.
Replacing the sensor then with a new one can help, its possible the existing one is a bit tired causing the ecu to over react.
It is possible that its just one of those cars though.
cheers
bob
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