Hunter wheel alignment.
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
On an understeering chassis the last thing you need is too much rear grip.
You've got too much negative rear camber (are you running way too low?): negative 1deg 15mins -1deg 30mins
You've got too little negative front camber: negative 1deg 45mins - 2deg
Use rear positive toe-in: 0.03mins, per side.
You've got too much negative rear camber (are you running way too low?): negative 1deg 15mins -1deg 30mins
You've got too little negative front camber: negative 1deg 45mins - 2deg
Use rear positive toe-in: 0.03mins, per side.
Last edited by 2pot; 24 March 2022 at 04:58 PM.
#3
On an understeering chassis the last thing you need is too much rear grip.
You've got too much negative rear camber (are you running way too low?): negative 1deg 15mins -1deg 30mins
You've got too little negative front camber: negative 1deg 45mins - 2deg
Use rear positive toe-in: 0.03mins, per side.
You've got too much negative rear camber (are you running way too low?): negative 1deg 15mins -1deg 30mins
You've got too little negative front camber: negative 1deg 45mins - 2deg
Use rear positive toe-in: 0.03mins, per side.
I gave him the prodrive print out off here and before fitting the coilovers said I wanted them to match it.
He called while I was at lego land going on about how it couldn't be certain degrees as there's only so many minutes etc so I said set it up to what is best.
I'll happily take it to get redone else but I'd like to get a few upgrades to the chassis first.
I think I'll go for the 10mm spacers, even though it means replacing the threads but are there other upgraded bars, arms etc I could fit to improve handling, and then take to the one in bedford.
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
All of this is way over my head.
I gave him the prodrive print out off here and before fitting the coilovers said I wanted them to match it.
He called while I was at lego land going on about how it couldn't be certain degrees as there's only so many minutes etc so I said set it up to what is best.
I'll happily take it to get redone else but I'd like to get a few upgrades to the chassis first.
I think I'll go for the 10mm spacers, even though it means replacing the threads but are there other upgraded bars, arms etc I could fit to improve handling, and then take to the one in bedford.
I gave him the prodrive print out off here and before fitting the coilovers said I wanted them to match it.
He called while I was at lego land going on about how it couldn't be certain degrees as there's only so many minutes etc so I said set it up to what is best.
I'll happily take it to get redone else but I'd like to get a few upgrades to the chassis first.
I think I'll go for the 10mm spacers, even though it means replacing the threads but are there other upgraded bars, arms etc I could fit to improve handling, and then take to the one in bedford.
It's odd given you are running coilovers, which usually come with adjustable front top mounts, that you are maxing out front camber at 1 degree yet have 2 degrees available at the rear.
Last edited by plenty; 25 March 2022 at 10:23 AM.
#8
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (13)
Depends on how you drive. Assuming not too hard, suggest dialling back rear camber to 1 degree 10 minutes per side. This is closer to factory and will save your tyres from prematurely wearing on the inner edges which will happen when driving in a straight line. You can either leave the fronts as they are if you're happy with the feel of the front end, or dial up the camber for more steering feel and ultimate grip in hard cornering, at the expense of edge wear and more tramlining (the tendency for the nose to follow ruts in the road).
Once you've done the basics such as align side to side there's no 'good' or 'bad', only tradeoffs depending on personal priorities.
Once you've done the basics such as align side to side there's no 'good' or 'bad', only tradeoffs depending on personal priorities.
Last edited by plenty; 25 March 2022 at 08:43 PM.
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