anyone else had this? i'm guessing this means a new gearbox

 

forgot to ask , is it driveable like this, or is it going to get worse?

 

i have a legacy box in my shed, 59000miles and mint apart from the fact that 2nd gear is shagged......

 

are you offering?

 

you can have it if you like, but obviously would need to be collected, otherwise free to a fellow legacy driver

one thing though, like i said, 2nd gear is stripped (both cogs).
although the larger diameter cog can be pulled off the shaft, the smaller cog is integral with the other shaft (small cog and shaft are one piece).
now, i think the smaller of the first gear cogs is also one piece with the above.....?

if you know what im on about....cant describe v.well

what 'exactly' is yours doing?

 

it's making a loud clunking noise while in first gear, goes as soon as you change gear to second etc.

also the syncromesh has gone on second & first, i'm guessing that yours is ok, or is it replaceable?

 

also, you can just hear it faintly when in neutral on tick over

 

ive got the box open in the shed, so the two assembled shafts are out. i will take some piccies of them after....

ian

 

this is my first gear the sound was also a pneumatic drill

[Edited by harbering1 - 5/23/2002 2:50:03 PM]

[Edited by harbering1 - 5/23/2002 2:52:04 PM]

 

thanks for all the replies, are you sure that the input shaft cogs can't be removed, subaru said you can't guess which shaft had lost its teeth without taking apart the box, which requires me to take my car off the road & remove the gearbox


what is the time required to take off the box, is it that hard?



kev

 

hi mate, havent got any piccies yet, because its been lashing it down non stop

if your box looks the same as the above, then mine will be no good. the gear that has been circled is the first gear. if you look to the left of it, you see the straight cut gear for reverse.
look again to the left, that next gear is the one that is totally stripped on mine.
thing is, both the gear above (circled) and the stripped gear on mine, are all one piece on that shaft, and the reverse gear too.

best thing is to remove the box, and open it to see.

to remove....

put front of car on axle stands (quite high as box is tall), and remove both front wheels.
undo the front calipers (piston part) and support by tying them to the suspension springs.
remove the two bolts at the bottom of the struts. should now be able to move hubs freely.
now look where the shafts go into the gearbox, and on the shaft collars, you will see that there is a pin going through it. drive this out with a drift etc.
now pull outwards on hubs, and shafts will come away from the box.

its now easier for clearance etc to remove the exhaust.
undo the front propshaft and slide out of gearbox.
now go under the bonnet,
remove the chargercooler.
remove the starter motor via two bolts.
remove the clutch cylinder.
look at the side of the box by where the starter was, and you'll see a disc screwed in, remove this with a 10mm hex.
now put a long M6 bolt in there, and screw it into the pivot shaft. when screwed in, pull out the pivot. this allows you to seperate the engine and box.
remove all the other nuts/bolts holding the box to the engine, inc the top one that acts as a body mount.
now support the box at the rear with a jack etc. and remove the gearbox mounts holding it to the body.
before you remove the box:
unplug the electric cable that is on top of the box to the drivers side, sort of in the tunnel.
go in the car and unscrew the gearknob. then pull up on the plastic gearstick surround (just pops off) and remove. also remove the six bolts that hold the rubber surrond to the base of the stick.
you'll have to look under the car where the stick comes through, and undo the bracket holding the stick mechanism to the car.

now remove the box. lower attachment to the engine is studs, so may need a little persuasion. also lift the clutch fork (where the cylinder presses it at the top of the box) to get it off the release bearing.

***the gearbox is quite heavy***

dont think ive missed anything

 

you make it sound so easy about this input shaft, are you 100% sure the cogs are not removeable in anyway, are they pressed on or something?

North Wales - where abouts? i might just risk it and hope its the bigger of the two


kev

 

absolutely sure about the gears mate. the shaft and 1st/2nd and reverse are machined from one piece, not removable in any way (i would have replaced 2nd gear when it broke if i could have - thats the only reason i had to get a new box)

im right on the north coast, between Llandudno and Rhyl (thats sunny rhyl.....my ****!)

ill go and get wet and get the shaft, and post some piccies up in about 10mins or so

 

ill send em to you by e-mail in a minute mate.

the turbosport uploading site is b*lloxed

 

thats definetly shagged

 

i think i might just of worked out which of the 2 gears has gone, right here goes;

on idle my car is doing 1250rpm which works out at 20 revolutions per second (rps) on the input shaft, it's making 'that' noise 4-5 times a second. the bigger of the two 1st gear cogs has a ratio of 4:1 - 20rps divided by 4 is 5rps. which means thats it's the larger cog

any of that make sense?

 

this bbs is finally working again!

yes i see what you mean mate, but the thing is, if the larger gear is shagged, then it has probably damaged the smaller one too?

 

hang on, if its idling and out of gear, only the input shaft should be spinning....??

 

i think all the cogs are meshed when idling, but the syncromesh isn't engaged so the input shaft spins all the gears but thet don't turn the output shaft

if its only one tooth missing off the larger cog i'm hoping that its not done much damage if at all to the smaller cog, i'm willing to try it anyway, not got much to lose


kev (bbs goes down right at the wrong time )

 

2 days offline and the search function still doesn't work

 

are you taking the box out then to have a look?

 

the weather's turning nice for the weekend so will start friday/saturday, got till wednesday before work again at least


kev

 

nice one mate

 

it's not out yet!

 

forgot to ask, are there any special tools needed?



kev

 

no, just make sure youve got a 10 allen key

cant think of anything else, ill have a look on my car tomorrow just to double check.

ian

 

is it a one man job? i'm guessing the gearbox removal bit must be at least 2 people


me

 

i got a mate to help lift the box and position it back etc, because its quite heavy, but more to the fact quite big and a bulky shape

mail me if you get stuck with anything

 

right, i got 4 hours on it today, god it was hot, had to leave it until 4 for it to cool down a bit

intercooler's off, starter's off, brake master's off, driveshaft's are off, propshaft's off (bit of a bugger that one ) exhaust is going nowhere [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]

now's the part where it goes a bit wrong, as always there's always one bolt that won't come off, and it's one of the bolts on the bottom studs on the gearbox (rounded off! [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img] [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]) will have some fun with that tomorrow


i can't find this pivot shaft 10mm bolt/disc thing where the starter was there's quite a few bolts in that area, will look tomorrow when i'm in a better mood


kev

 

right, i've got the box off, took all afternoon (bit difficult by myself) and i've got the box split (more on that later)

turns out it was the cog i had worked it out to be 1 tooth had 'fell off'

now i'm having trouble getting the rest of the gearbox split to get the shafts out, any ideas?


kev

got some pictures if i can upload them, having a bit of trouble