Fitting dawes after engine tuning (Digit power)
A have a car which has tuning by digit-power. I see some box on top of ECU (maybe fuel cut lifter) and little bleed valve (like small one on the hoses used for aquarium)between solenoid and wastegate(actuator). I want install Dawes (racing version), but...: where can I place it? Some recomendations on dawes pages are - between intake and actuator, between some hose from turbo and actuator, or can I only replace bleed valve to Daves? Have you any other recomendations? I have MY00 GT. Thanks
I'm pretty sure (well, absolutely positive) that it's a replacement thing - bleed or Dawes.
But it's probably worthwhile waiting for some more useful info from someone who actually knows what they are talking about
But it's probably worthwhile waiting for some more useful info from someone who actually knows what they are talking about
Digit Power CH fit a bleed and FCD along with exhaust & induction mods.
You can remove the bleed and replace it a Dawes - but be careful
If it's the same as the install I've seen the bleed is between the t-piece and solenoid & everything else is as stock. You can just remove everything you've got now, blank off the solenoid and fit the Dawes between turbo outlet and wastegate (same as any other car).
What boost are you running with the bleed? Doing this on another car led to a removed boost peak (was 1.5bar!) and a held value the same (1.2bar). The owner felt the car to be much stronger (due, I guess, to the quicker spool-up.....plus ignition problems with the 1.5 peak maybe
).
Richard
You can remove the bleed and replace it a Dawes - but be careful
If it's the same as the install I've seen the bleed is between the t-piece and solenoid & everything else is as stock. You can just remove everything you've got now, blank off the solenoid and fit the Dawes between turbo outlet and wastegate (same as any other car).What boost are you running with the bleed? Doing this on another car led to a removed boost peak (was 1.5bar!) and a held value the same (1.2bar). The owner felt the car to be much stronger (due, I guess, to the quicker spool-up.....plus ignition problems with the 1.5 peak maybe
).Richard
lol!
Don't worry, my friend ran his like this for around 40'000km's
You still have the OE d/p I assume - you know what's been done to it to cause the peaks?!
What would be interesting is to hook up DeltaDash and see what the ignition/knock sensor is doing during these peaks - did you get the mods done in CH & are you ever back here? I'm expecting a copy of this product soon (if Swiss customs ever get their act together
).
Richard
Don't worry, my friend ran his like this for around 40'000km's
You still have the OE d/p I assume - you know what's been done to it to cause the peaks?!What would be interesting is to hook up DeltaDash and see what the ignition/knock sensor is doing during these peaks - did you get the mods done in CH & are you ever back here? I'm expecting a copy of this product soon (if Swiss customs ever get their act together
).Richard
Knock Link is an item which I ordered by MRT Australia. It will come at start of MAY. How many times you run on this levels (1,3 bar) a day. I think 6-8 times a day for short time.... I thing it is safe....
The car I bought near Bern as damaged.....
The man has car only 1 day after tuning.
When I bought car, it was with standard intake and exhaust (owner sold it to another buyer).
I use KN filter insert (panel) and on monday I will change exhaust. Yesterday i did comparing with new M3 E46 and till 200 km/h there is no difference..... :-)
The car I bought near Bern as damaged.....
The man has car only 1 day after tuning.
When I bought car, it was with standard intake and exhaust (owner sold it to another buyer).
I use KN filter insert (panel) and on monday I will change exhaust. Yesterday i did comparing with new M3 E46 and till 200 km/h there is no difference..... :-)
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I thought Digit-Power cut open the OE pipe and remove the cat as part of the upgrade (stealth is required in CH
), try removing the heatshields and see whether there are weld marks.
1.3 is not too bad, but I suspect you're past the efficiency of the OE turbo - on my car (ppp ecu) I notice little performance difference between 1.2 and 1.3 held (more harsh at 1.3, smoother at 1.2)....I'm waiting to log data from DeltaDash to confirm what's happening. A dawes will cure the peak, and I'd play with 1.2 and 1.3 to see what you think - I prefer 1.2
Lambdalink is also nice to have if you're going to push things!
Richard
), try removing the heatshields and see whether there are weld marks.1.3 is not too bad, but I suspect you're past the efficiency of the OE turbo - on my car (ppp ecu) I notice little performance difference between 1.2 and 1.3 held (more harsh at 1.3, smoother at 1.2)....I'm waiting to log data from DeltaDash to confirm what's happening. A dawes will cure the peak, and I'd play with 1.2 and 1.3 to see what you think - I prefer 1.2

Lambdalink is also nice to have if you're going to push things!
Richard
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