RICH WILD

Had a tweak with my boost controller the other night and I am now running a solid 1.5 bar of boost on standard UK internals and standard ECU.

I am running Optimax though with a bottle of Millers and 50ml of NF per tankful and the AFR is still showing well rich on boost

Getting an HKS Electronic EGT soon, so if all is showing as ok, may tweak a little more

Quite how long the engine will last is another matter but I'm having plenty of fun with it at the mo.

I'm also still on the standard clutch and gearbox!!

Rich

Mellow Yellow !

iTrader: (1)

You've got the devils own engine under that bonnet of yours mate

See you tonight....

mrkimpreza

You are forgetting to specify which model.

On standard (non sti) internals with a TDL04 turbo 1,5b is way, way, way too much. Intake temp. will rise too high, det. will occur and you will loose your engine / piston one day.

I believe that the general consensus with stock internals and a stock (MY99) turbo TDL04 is max. 1,3b, naturally with a adapted ECU mapping.

Mark.

SPEN555

Rich,

You see what you've done now!

12 months ago it was said stock internals could cope with 1.2bar. 12 months later it's crept up to 1.3 bar. LOL!

Keep pushing that envelope!

Damian.

steve McCulloch

Just waiting for your car to go bang rich...

1.5 is way too high...

john banks

"12 months ago it was said stock internals could cope with 1.2bar. 12 months later it's crept up to 1.3 bar."

That's why I run 1.25 bar

SPEN555

LOL @ John Banks!

Damian.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

I believe Rich has the older TD05 turbo

Rich, how long are you holding 1.5 bar? Do you tail it off as you near the redline?

If not, hats off you nutter! Theres me fretting about 1.1bar held all the way on a 95 WRX

Could you stick it on the rollers before it pops?

Justin

GavinP

What are you using to keep the engine grenading apart from lots of octane booster ?

Water Injection ?
Upgraded Intercooler ?
Water Wetter ? (apparently good for 2 RON BTW)
Prayer mat ?

Thanks

Gavin

RICH WILD

Cheers for the support chaps!

Justin's right it's a MY96 with the TD05 turbo.

It's holding 1.5 all the way to the redline.

I acknowledge that it's a bit unsafe, hence the £240 I'm paying for a HKS electronic EGT.

If the EGT says all is well, then why not? If it goes pop, well at least I've had my fun. It's a good excuse for uprated internals too.

I'm a bit like Donald Campbell, my Scoob will probably blow up one day and I'll disappear without trace

My brother's in Japan at the mo and there's WRXs out there running nearly 600bhp!!!! Probably getting rebuilt every 2 mins though. LOL.

I'm just totally addicted to boost! (isn't that a song?)

Rich

RICH WILD

Gavin,

NOTHING!!! LOL Just lots of octane booster and big gonads!!

No water injection, Standard intercooler, and no Prayer Mat LOL

AFR still shows me as running well rich. Reckon I'm around 102-103 RON if all the Octane booster manufacturers are to be believed.

Rich



[Edited by RICH WILD - 4/4/2002 4:36:16 PM]

DaveW

Rich,

For a special occasion you could fill up with Elf racing fuel which is 108RON. Should allow just that little bit more BOOST. But only for a special occasion since its about £2.75 a litre.

DaveW

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Dave, at that price next month it will be cheaper than supermarket UL

Justin

R19KET

I think that how much power an engine is producing plays a big part in how things stay together, it's not just purely down to boost.

As an example, based on the figures quoted in the Banzai feature, Richard got 318bhp, Steve got 349bhp. I suspect that Steve is running nowhere near 1.5bar at the top end, and IIRC, on another RR day, a guy was running 1.5bar on a Superchip, and his figures were bettered by Pat running .9bar.

I don't know how much less boost Richard was running at Well Lane, but 1psi is worth about 7~8bhp on our cars.

Anyway, I'm sures Richards car is very quick, and as for Steves, well he'll get there eventually

Mark.

RICH WILD

I quite agree there Mark

In the Banzai feature I was running 1.3 bar to get 318bhp.

Not bad for a car that started with 208bhp!!

Not really bothered about whether I'm getting more power now, though it feels like I am, just want to push the limits of boost to see how much it can take!! More for interest than anything.

In the end I've spent less than 2 grand on the engine, granted I could get the same power with much less boost, but I haven't got that kind of till.

Be interested to know what Pat's spec was though.

Steve was running 1.4 bar at Well lane I think, and remember his is an STi5 with FMIC, Link and allsorts, so it's not surprising he whopped my candy ***

Cheers

Rich





[Edited by RICH WILD - 4/4/2002 5:27:41 PM]

spen

It's not unheard of to run lots of boost without mega buck mods. A bit back I had a legacy turbo which ran 1.4 bar to the redline on SUL. It did this with a bleed valve and the MAP sensor disconnected!! It did that for 10,000 miles before I sold it on. It would very easiy hit a registered 150 mph but I don't know how accurate the speedo was. The only problem I had was an exploding clutch! I've been though another legacy since and I'm now on a GTB and that's already at 1.3bar. This time there are lots of other mods as well

R19KET

Richard,

318bhp is excellent, and for less than £2k......

It would be interesting to see the graphs. I suspect that you'll be losing out lower down, compared to a remapped car, but it's also down to VFM , and the depth of your pockets.

Pat's put a lot of time, and money into his car, to get it where it is (4 engines, 4 gearbox's he does run a pretty immpressive turbo, and a Petel T6 ecu though and that's on a UK engine too.

Next you'll have to get and ignition controller, and really get the map optomised.

Mark.

Cosie Convert

Rich

There are 3 cars that I know of in Scotland 2 early WRXs with TD05 1 UK with Vf something from an STi ....all running 1.6 bar + on standard internals.

Andy

Edited to add - All running 12 second 1/4s so it's not just all hot air

[Edited by Cosie Convert - 4/4/2002 7:02:01 PM]

Miki

Damn you guys... I had settled for 1.2bar now when I finally got my FCD installed... but when I think back I already ran my previous car (MY92 Legacy) on 1.3bar, and it had over 250.000km on the clock, and no problems whatsoever, maybe I should go for 1.4bar now !?!?

Since I already have STi ver IV pistons in my MY95 Impreza (Unichip, Turbosmart BC) you reeeeeally got me thinking !

* Miki *

ustolemyname??stevieturbo

iTrader: (1)

I would reccommend getting the fuel checked out properly, ie with a real wideband AFR meter. Temps can effect the cheap type too much to use relaibly especially at that kind of boost. Also Air temps will be through the roof, and it will cause detonation whether you hear it or not, and bye bye pistons. EGT can be usefull, or so i am told. But I suppose it depends where you put the sender. They temps it give you may be totally useless for tuning. I have destroyed a few engines running less boost than that, so i do speak from experience. It is best not to get greedy, more is not always better

alanjack

I am still not convinced Rich that your car is a UK car. Not being jealous but I'd like you to prove to us all your car isn't an STI or a WRX import.
Alan

Bob Rawle

Rich, to put my two penneth in, Steve was running 1.4 bar tapering to around 1.27 at the point of peak power so possibly less boost than you at max.

I know cos he bent my ear over it afterwards !!

Its not all about boost ... maybe that should be a song as well.

Bob

R19KET

The main cause of high intake temps, is due to the wrong turbo beng used, and over driving it. You can get away with it, if you use WI, and a FMIC. Within reason.

The main problem with OD blocks, is that under high boost/power, the bores have been known to move, and this causes head gasket failure.

Mark.

RICH WILD

Mark,

You are right about my car losing out lower down, it's got bog all early on in the rev range and then.... KABOOM!

If I installed an FMIC to get charge temps down, would that worsen my low end gutlessness? would I be better off with STi stylee intercooler water spray?

Bob,

LOL about Steve chewing your ear. I do intend to swap to a proper mapped ECU one day. But I'm saving up for a house at the moment so different priorities

Glad to hear Cossie convert's comments about those 2 in Scotland running 1.6 bar (Wow).

Rich

alanjack

Richard Wild.

David_Wallis

Hope it blows up soon

I'm not jealous..

David

ScoobySnack

1.2 Bar and feeling inadequate......

J

RICH WILD

Alan,

I PROMISE it's a UK car.

How can I prove it's a UK car?

Engine no? EJ20GNW5HD

Other than that I've no idea.

Anyone out there know how to identify imports?

Rich

R19KET

Richard,

I would take a FM, over water spray, any day. If you're lucky, you may see a 5~6 deg C reduction with WS, but with a FM, it could easily be 20~30 deg C reduction.

Part of the problem you currently have, is no control over ignition timing. If you were to advance the ignition in the "off boost", and early spool up part of the map, it makes a massive differance. Power, and torque isn't just about boost.

As an example, Pat, and I did some testing on my car. I felt that my map was pretty much as close as I could get it, but wanted to see if I could pull the boost in earlier. Since I'd already optomised the boost controls, Pat suggested that we could pull it in earlier by dramatically reducing the ignition advance.

So that's what we did, and indeed the turbo did spool up earlier, and at 3000rpm I had much more boost, BUT, the torque had been dramatically reduced, and the car felt awfull. So I ended up where I started.

So, whilst a big turbo may take longer to spool up, because it's running much cooler, it allows you to advance the ignition, and gain more torque.

"Boost" is very subjective. People assume that, by running higher boost, they will automatically gain more power. The problems with turbo's such as the TD04, is that by increasing the boost, it goes so far outside it's efficiency, that all it's really doing, is producing more heat, and back pressure.. So infact, not only is LESS air going into the engine, but det can be induced, and the ecu will retard the ignition.

A FM, and WI will help, but ultimately, you still need the correct size turbo for the boost/power you want to run.

"Lag" is also subjective. I don't understand why having all your power low down is so important, when the time spent at let's say 3000rpm, is so little. Whether we are on the track, or playing on the road, we tend to be in the 3500~4000rpm + area. So that's where I want my power to come in, and if I need to floor it when I'm doing 2500~3000rpm, I have a gearbox !!!!

So you guys think you have "lag" PAH, the best I can get, is 2psi at 3000rpm, and 8psi at 3500rpm !!!!! 4000rpm is another story

Mark.

RICH WILD

Thanks Mark,

Would I only get the full benefit of a FMIC with a mappable ECU or would it be of as much use while still running the standard ECU?

Also, I've heard that Techno Pete ran 26psi for 12 months reliably on the same turbo as me, the big 'ol TD05, although I don't know what other mods he had.

I thought about an FMIC a bit ago but someone said, without a mappable ECU, they are a waste of money.

Rich