New intercooler
#1
Hi guys,
As I always like to fiddel and waste senseless money, I am thinking about other front mounted intercooler options.
So far the one I am most impressed with is the mrt. It has led me to think that maybe I would prefer a bar and plate design btu am having trouble finding anything cheaper than the extortionate mrt price.
Does anyone have any suggestions.
Cant find any info on HKS, apexi, greddy etc. but have been looking. To my knowledge most are tube and fin anyway.
Any help would be appreciated.
As I always like to fiddel and waste senseless money, I am thinking about other front mounted intercooler options.
So far the one I am most impressed with is the mrt. It has led me to think that maybe I would prefer a bar and plate design btu am having trouble finding anything cheaper than the extortionate mrt price.
Does anyone have any suggestions.
Cant find any info on HKS, apexi, greddy etc. but have been looking. To my knowledge most are tube and fin anyway.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gloucestershire, home of the lawnmower.
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Adam,
Maybe take a look at: http://www.paceproducts.co.uk/ricc/scooby_main.htm
I've no idea if it is any good, but at least they seem to have thought about the front mounts effect on the water temps.
(Main site: http://www.paceproducts.co.uk/ )
Cheers
Ian
Maybe take a look at: http://www.paceproducts.co.uk/ricc/scooby_main.htm
I've no idea if it is any good, but at least they seem to have thought about the front mounts effect on the water temps.
(Main site: http://www.paceproducts.co.uk/ )
Cheers
Ian
#4
Ian, thanks but I have the pace and feel like a change.
Will give it some more time first, havent had car long enough to see what results I actually get.
Craig, nice thought but twould prefer to be a bit different. Plus, yours is tube and fin, and I want a bar and plate.
Will give it some more time first, havent had car long enough to see what results I actually get.
Craig, nice thought but twould prefer to be a bit different. Plus, yours is tube and fin, and I want a bar and plate.
Trending Topics
#8
Mo and danny.
dont be taling the pi55 out of me.
You wouldnt like me when I am angry.
I will hunt you down and shoot you, square in the shoulder rude boy stylee.
The chain reaction of shards of shoulder blade will explode liek shrapnel inside your torso, like splinters piercing your heart, and you will die.
dont be taling the pi55 out of me.
You wouldnt like me when I am angry.
I will hunt you down and shoot you, square in the shoulder rude boy stylee.
The chain reaction of shards of shoulder blade will explode liek shrapnel inside your torso, like splinters piercing your heart, and you will die.
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brentwood, Essex
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fitted an HKS fmic 2 weeks ago to my MYOO. Was really impressed with the fit and build quality.
Quite abit of scary cutting involved but its worth it.
Car feels alot better, and i now get that funnny chattering wastegate noise aswell as the noise from the BOV. Not sure why, hope it doesn't cause the turbo any damage!! I assume that its because there is too much charge air for the BOV to dump in one go and its going back through the turbo.
Anyone experienced similar thing?
Kit cost about £1100, which i think is ok considering the quality.
BTW, it wont fit with the std airbox etc.
Hope this helps.
FORTY
Quite abit of scary cutting involved but its worth it.
Car feels alot better, and i now get that funnny chattering wastegate noise aswell as the noise from the BOV. Not sure why, hope it doesn't cause the turbo any damage!! I assume that its because there is too much charge air for the BOV to dump in one go and its going back through the turbo.
Anyone experienced similar thing?
Kit cost about £1100, which i think is ok considering the quality.
BTW, it wont fit with the std airbox etc.
Hope this helps.
FORTY
#19
Different method of contruction, and hence different heat transfer characteristics. According to theory, tube and fin is capable of being better.
I believe bar and plate to be harder wearing, but it could just be that those I have seen are better constructed.
Waiting for a repsonse from hyperflow who supposedly sell them.
I believe bar and plate to be harder wearing, but it could just be that those I have seen are better constructed.
Waiting for a repsonse from hyperflow who supposedly sell them.
#21
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: London
Posts: 7,039
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Adam,
When you *actually* have your car and you *actually* drive it and you *actually* put some miles on the Intercooler you may *actually* want to keep the one you've got ?????? ( )
Matt
When you *actually* have your car and you *actually* drive it and you *actually* put some miles on the Intercooler you may *actually* want to keep the one you've got ?????? ( )
Matt
#22
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brentwood, Essex
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The HKS front mount is tube and fin. I must admit that it seems fairly fragile, especially when its in such a vulnerable position to be battered with stones and small animals! I may put a wire mesh in front to protect it.
The cutting was mainly just the bumper, although you do have to cut a small strip of metal from the front valence. Its only the metal strip that the bumper sits on, so it is not visible when the bumper is back in place, and its not enough to effect the structual strength. I painted it with hammerite after cutting so that it doesnt rust.
You also have to cut the engines plastic undertrays slightly, but some people dont even bother putting them back on.
All of this cutting may sound harsh, but trust me, it isnt that scary otherwise i wouldnt have done it.
[Edited by Steve Fort - 10/26/2001 8:38:13 PM]
The cutting was mainly just the bumper, although you do have to cut a small strip of metal from the front valence. Its only the metal strip that the bumper sits on, so it is not visible when the bumper is back in place, and its not enough to effect the structual strength. I painted it with hammerite after cutting so that it doesnt rust.
You also have to cut the engines plastic undertrays slightly, but some people dont even bother putting them back on.
All of this cutting may sound harsh, but trust me, it isnt that scary otherwise i wouldnt have done it.
[Edited by Steve Fort - 10/26/2001 8:38:13 PM]
#23
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Brentwood, Essex
Posts: 1,077
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The HKS front mount is tube and fin. I must admit that it seems fairly fragile, especially when its in such a vulnerable position to be battered with stones and small animals! I may put a wire mesh in front to protect it.
The cutting was mainly just the bumper, although you do have to cut a small strip of metal from the front valence. Its only the metal strip that the bumper sits on, so it is not visible when the bumper is back in place, and its not enough to effect the structual strength. I painted it with hammerite after cutting so that it doesnt rust.
You also have to cut the engines plastic undertrays slightly, but some people dont even bother putting them back on.
All of this cutting may sound harsh, but trust me, it isnt that scary otherwise i wouldnt have done it.
DOUBLE POST..................DOH!!!
[Edited by Steve Fort - 10/26/2001 8:39:12 PM]
The cutting was mainly just the bumper, although you do have to cut a small strip of metal from the front valence. Its only the metal strip that the bumper sits on, so it is not visible when the bumper is back in place, and its not enough to effect the structual strength. I painted it with hammerite after cutting so that it doesnt rust.
You also have to cut the engines plastic undertrays slightly, but some people dont even bother putting them back on.
All of this cutting may sound harsh, but trust me, it isnt that scary otherwise i wouldnt have done it.
DOUBLE POST..................DOH!!!
[Edited by Steve Fort - 10/26/2001 8:39:12 PM]
#25
STi Ver II. Trust FMIC fitted. This is of the tube and fin variety. The FMIC kit comes with all the piping necessary, just make sure you specify which model (year) WRX you have.
I had to cut the front bumper. You will also need an adequate BOV (if you haven't already done so) as I found the stock BOV just couldn't cope with the additional volume of air.
The intercooler piping goes through the stock cold airbox so a pod filter arrangement is required.
Overall impression: Good construction (everything just worked/fitted), fairly light (well, I could lift the box without too much difficulty ), minimal (if any) additional lag noticed (this is with a 2.5" catless downpipe, 3" intermediary and a perferated straight through muffler).
I had to cut the front bumper. You will also need an adequate BOV (if you haven't already done so) as I found the stock BOV just couldn't cope with the additional volume of air.
The intercooler piping goes through the stock cold airbox so a pod filter arrangement is required.
Overall impression: Good construction (everything just worked/fitted), fairly light (well, I could lift the box without too much difficulty ), minimal (if any) additional lag noticed (this is with a 2.5" catless downpipe, 3" intermediary and a perferated straight through muffler).
#26
another company in oz is hyperflow they make both t/b and b/p
http://www.hyperflow.com.au/wrxkit.htm.
but the mrt kit i have on my car is very nice with very short pipe length no cutting and no removal of fog lights
http://www.hyperflow.com.au/wrxkit.htm.
but the mrt kit i have on my car is very nice with very short pipe length no cutting and no removal of fog lights
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Flat4x4-again
General Technical
2
29 September 2015 06:32 PM