Please confirm a few things about gearbox removal
11 July 2005, 09:25 PM
#1
Please confirm a few things about gearbox removal
My clutch does not seem to be coping with the torque after having AndyF map the car. So I should be receiving a lovely new clutch from API tomorrow.
Now, I know the gearbox needs to come off to change the clutch and I have the tools/space/ability to do this, with a mates help, but what are the specifics.
Please tell me if this looks to be about right
TMIC off to get to slave cylinder and top bolts of bell housing
Prop out of the box and oil drained
Gear lever from inside the car to remove
Electrical connections to box removed (which ones?)
Jack to support bloody heavy gearbox
Centre section of exhaust removed.
Drive shaft to be removed (from the box or from the hub? and what are the pins that hold them in? do I need a pin punch?)
Any pics or advice would be good. I have done a search and read loads of posts but I need to be sure of tools or precedures before I start.
I am hoping to take pics of this for others to see a step by step guide of what I did.
Cheers,
Wayne.
Now, I know the gearbox needs to come off to change the clutch and I have the tools/space/ability to do this, with a mates help, but what are the specifics.
Please tell me if this looks to be about right
TMIC off to get to slave cylinder and top bolts of bell housing
Prop out of the box and oil drained
Gear lever from inside the car to remove
Electrical connections to box removed (which ones?)
Jack to support bloody heavy gearbox
Centre section of exhaust removed.
Drive shaft to be removed (from the box or from the hub? and what are the pins that hold them in? do I need a pin punch?)
Any pics or advice would be good. I have done a search and read loads of posts but I need to be sure of tools or precedures before I start.
I am hoping to take pics of this for others to see a step by step guide of what I did.
Cheers,
Wayne.
11 July 2005, 09:31 PM
#2
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Gear lever from inside the car to remove - No need just seperate at the linkage 12mm bolt and nut
Electrical connections to box removed (which ones?)- speedo cable and the that was under the tmic
Drive shaft to be removed (from the box or from the hub? and what are the pins that hold them in? do I need a pin punch?)-remove from box a punch will be needed
Electrical connections to box removed (which ones?)- speedo cable and the that was under the tmic
Drive shaft to be removed (from the box or from the hub? and what are the pins that hold them in? do I need a pin punch?)-remove from box a punch will be needed
11 July 2005, 09:42 PM
#3
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Don't forget to pull out the clutch for pivot pin, and disconnect the clutch from the release bearing 
Once the starter is off, you'll see a plug on the side of the gearbox that can be removed with a 10mm allen key...You should then be able to wind a M6 bolt into the pin and pull it out.
I've found with 5 speeders, that if you knock the innerCV pins out with a punch, then leave the CV's on the stub axles of the box until you are just about to drop the box....You can drop the rear of the box on a trolley jack, the move it from side to side, giving you enough clearance to get the CV off the box, without having to start removing hubs etc
It can also be done with 6 speed boxes, but it's a hell of a lot tighter
Have fun with it. - It's definately easier second/third time around
Once the starter is off, you'll see a plug on the side of the gearbox that can be removed with a 10mm allen key...You should then be able to wind a M6 bolt into the pin and pull it out.
I've found with 5 speeders, that if you knock the innerCV pins out with a punch, then leave the CV's on the stub axles of the box until you are just about to drop the box....You can drop the rear of the box on a trolley jack, the move it from side to side, giving you enough clearance to get the CV off the box, without having to start removing hubs etc
It can also be done with 6 speed boxes, but it's a hell of a lot tighter
Have fun with it. - It's definately easier second/third time around
11 July 2005, 10:35 PM
#4
Originally Posted by fiestaboy
Don't forget to pull out the clutch for pivot pin, and disconnect the clutch from the release bearing
Once the starter is off, you'll see a plug on the side of the gearbox that can be removed with a 10mm allen key...You should then be able to wind a M6 bolt into the pin and pull it out.
I've found with 5 speeders, that if you knock the innerCV pins out with a punch, then leave the CV's on the stub axles of the box until you are just about to drop the box....You can drop the rear of the box on a trolley jack, the move it from side to side, giving you enough clearance to get the CV off the box, without having to start removing hubs etc
It can also be done with 6 speed boxes, but it's a hell of a lot tighter
Have fun with it. - It's definately easier second/third time around
Once the starter is off, you'll see a plug on the side of the gearbox that can be removed with a 10mm allen key...You should then be able to wind a M6 bolt into the pin and pull it out.
I've found with 5 speeders, that if you knock the innerCV pins out with a punch, then leave the CV's on the stub axles of the box until you are just about to drop the box....You can drop the rear of the box on a trolley jack, the move it from side to side, giving you enough clearance to get the CV off the box, without having to start removing hubs etc
It can also be done with 6 speed boxes, but it's a hell of a lot tighter
Have fun with it. - It's definately easier second/third time around
So are we saying that I can leave the bottom ball joints and suspension in place and just allow the inner CV's to come out of the box by moving the box back and to the each side in turn?
What size of drift do I need to get the pins out?
12 July 2005, 07:44 AM
#5
This is a bitch of a job if the box has not been off before.
I cannot slip my front shafts out of the box so have to split the ball joints on the wishbones (easy to do!).
The roll pins are 6mm dia iirc and when putting back there is a lead-in taper in the CV, make sure you use it!
The advice above from other people is perfect in my opinion having done the box/rear diff job 3 times...
Takes about a day with 2 of you and the right tools/swear words.
Rather you than me.
Graham.
I cannot slip my front shafts out of the box so have to split the ball joints on the wishbones (easy to do!).
The roll pins are 6mm dia iirc and when putting back there is a lead-in taper in the CV, make sure you use it!
The advice above from other people is perfect in my opinion having done the box/rear diff job 3 times...
Takes about a day with 2 of you and the right tools/swear words.
Rather you than me.
Graham.
12 July 2005, 09:13 AM
#6
Originally Posted by 911
This is a bitch of a job if the box has not been off before.
I cannot slip my front shafts out of the box so have to split the ball joints on the wishbones (easy to do!).
The roll pins are 6mm dia iirc and when putting back there is a lead-in taper in the CV, make sure you use it!
The advice above from other people is perfect in my opinion having done the box/rear diff job 3 times...
Takes about a day with 2 of you and the right tools/swear words.
Rather you than me.
Graham.
I cannot slip my front shafts out of the box so have to split the ball joints on the wishbones (easy to do!).
The roll pins are 6mm dia iirc and when putting back there is a lead-in taper in the CV, make sure you use it!
The advice above from other people is perfect in my opinion having done the box/rear diff job 3 times...
Takes about a day with 2 of you and the right tools/swear words.
Rather you than me.
Graham.
I was thinking about paying to have it done, but that £250 can be better spent elswhere.
Wayne.
12 July 2005, 12:46 PM
#7
Maybe mine was a particularly bad one, but it took 2 full hours to free the box off the engine due to the galvanic corrosion btween the 2 location dowls and the bell housing.
Everything is just hard work (on your own), and if the down-pipe has not been removed before, well, that just makes it harder still.
API charge about £250 I think, and they do about 10 a week!
Have a go,(when it's cooled down) just dont think it's like taking an Escort box out....
Graham.
Everything is just hard work (on your own), and if the down-pipe has not been removed before, well, that just makes it harder still.
API charge about £250 I think, and they do about 10 a week!
Have a go,(when it's cooled down) just dont think it's like taking an Escort box out....
Graham.
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12 July 2005, 05:21 PM
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Also worht noting, that if your downpipe is a recent addition, then seeing as it's not that difficult to remove, do! i fear that with the downp[ipe in place, the job would/will be a LOT more difficult...
Re the driveshaft pins.... and 6" nail with the point ground off will do the same job as a pin punch!
Also worth noting that once the gearbox has been removed, the engine will'flop' forwards, so think about that first, i put a strap around the inlet and round the bolt that the engine support bar uses to stop this happeneing, it paid dividends when re-fitting the box as the two bottom studs were at a much more acceptable angle, ready to accept the advancing gearbox!
Be very aware, that if the box isn't that well fixed/corodded to the engine, then if you pull too hard like i did when doing mine for the second time, that the box will land on top of you.... or it did me anyway... i have yet to find out wether i am still able to produce offspring....
Re the driveshaft pins.... and 6" nail with the point ground off will do the same job as a pin punch!
Also worth noting that once the gearbox has been removed, the engine will'flop' forwards, so think about that first, i put a strap around the inlet and round the bolt that the engine support bar uses to stop this happeneing, it paid dividends when re-fitting the box as the two bottom studs were at a much more acceptable angle, ready to accept the advancing gearbox!
Be very aware, that if the box isn't that well fixed/corodded to the engine, then if you pull too hard like i did when doing mine for the second time, that the box will land on top of you.... or it did me anyway... i have yet to find out wether i am still able to produce offspring....
14 July 2005, 04:20 PM
#16
Try this post 9 here http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=435022
Originally Posted by Welloilbeefhooked
Yep, a bit far away one thinks. Looks like I'm getting bruised and battered then!!
14 July 2005, 08:25 PM
#18
Cheers for that mate. I have Graham's version as well so I think I should be sorted.
Had 11 geaboxes in my first MK2 Escort. Had it down to 20 mins for box out- box in!! Actually did 4 boxes in one day as we kept trying boxes from a scrapper until we found a good one.
Thank god the scoob box is still ok!
Had 11 geaboxes in my first MK2 Escort. Had it down to 20 mins for box out- box in!! Actually did 4 boxes in one day as we kept trying boxes from a scrapper until we found a good one.
Thank god the scoob box is still ok!
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