Changing Plugs / Cars getting slow
#1
Changing Plugs / Cars getting slow
Hi my 97 wrx still seems slower then it was, its not smoking nor loosing oil, i have cleaned the boost controller, what else could it be? could the plugs cause the lack off punch? if so how do i get them out and check them? what am i looking for, any help is greatly appreciated as this is driving me mad.
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If it were plugs I would expect it to miss fire..
Plugs out if easy after the first time..
Remove air filter.. not sure if you have on plug coil packs or ht leads on the 97.. ht leads I think.
Pull off HT lead or use a 12mm spanner to undo coil pack.. insert a plug spanner (I find a plug socket with the flexi joint the exact right length) undo.. and take it out.. gap them or the new ones to 0.7mm.
I find you need to remove the rubber gripper from the plug socket otherwise you cannot get the plug socket out once you wind them back in.. do one at a time then you cannot muddle the ht leads.
On the other side you need to remove the washer bottle.. the battery is in the way but you can get behind it or as this is your first go at it you might want to remove that too.
I tend to do the drivers side first and then start the car and check it idles okay.. then do the otherside, then if there is a problem I know which side to look at.
I have some pictures of where the plugs are etc around here somewhere..
My car has coil packs on it.. the washer bottle will if you are careful lift up and turn upside down at the same time and sit upside down on top of the engine. saves emptying it and disconnecting pump etc..
Simon
Plugs out if easy after the first time..
Remove air filter.. not sure if you have on plug coil packs or ht leads on the 97.. ht leads I think.
Pull off HT lead or use a 12mm spanner to undo coil pack.. insert a plug spanner (I find a plug socket with the flexi joint the exact right length) undo.. and take it out.. gap them or the new ones to 0.7mm.
I find you need to remove the rubber gripper from the plug socket otherwise you cannot get the plug socket out once you wind them back in.. do one at a time then you cannot muddle the ht leads.
On the other side you need to remove the washer bottle.. the battery is in the way but you can get behind it or as this is your first go at it you might want to remove that too.
I tend to do the drivers side first and then start the car and check it idles okay.. then do the otherside, then if there is a problem I know which side to look at.
I have some pictures of where the plugs are etc around here somewhere..
My car has coil packs on it.. the washer bottle will if you are careful lift up and turn upside down at the same time and sit upside down on top of the engine. saves emptying it and disconnecting pump etc..
Simon
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Oh and also wind the plugs in with the socket on the plug by hand as they are so far in it is too easy to cross thread them if not turn it correctly by hand first.
#5
what else could cause it to loose its punch? ive cleaned the boost solenoid, it doesnt hunt on idle so i assume the AFR is ok? Shall i clean it? also what about the lambda probe, could this be faulty how would i tell?
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not 100% sure on boost level but probably about 0.9bar something like that..
If you are running on anything other than Super Unleaded (ideally optimax) and booster then it could be detting and the ecu going into safe mod.. Try it on Optimax and get some booster is not already and I would invest in a boost gauge.. they are not that expansive can get them for about £30 from
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk.
Safe mod drops the boost to 0.5bar and a boost solinoid sticking is about 0.4bar.. helps tell where the problem is.
Simon
If you are running on anything other than Super Unleaded (ideally optimax) and booster then it could be detting and the ecu going into safe mod.. Try it on Optimax and get some booster is not already and I would invest in a boost gauge.. they are not that expansive can get them for about £30 from
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk.
Safe mod drops the boost to 0.5bar and a boost solinoid sticking is about 0.4bar.. helps tell where the problem is.
Simon
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You can eliminate the dump valve by removing the vaccum line off the top of the dump valve and block off the pipe to the manifold with a screw or bolt, it will then not dump the boost.
Depending on turbo you could bu99er it running it like this for any length of time so just do it for a test run.
Or you could have a boost pipe leak, or an up pipe / header leak.
Simon
Depending on turbo you could bu99er it running it like this for any length of time so just do it for a test run.
Or you could have a boost pipe leak, or an up pipe / header leak.
Simon
#13
i normally use optimax and millers octane booster, but lately i have just been using optimax, sometimes use a NOS one its in a blue bottle, bout £10. cant get hold of the booster at the moment. My knocklink turnt up in the post today and i will get a guage at the weekend
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Wouldn't have expected enough knock with just optimax for it to go into safe mod although it will be mapped for 100ron fuel and then the air filter will reduce the load the ecu will see so it will be running more timing, plus then the exhaust will lean it slightly more.
Could just be the lack of octane booster..
Could just be the lack of octane booster..
#15
could be, just feels depressing, its still quick but i used to scare the sh*t out myself when flooring in 2nd, so is there anything else i can check, also where do i plumb the boost gauge into? Cheers
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Maybe you are used to the power a bit and the lack of booster mean the ecu has pulled a little bit of timing..
Boost gauge plumb it into the dump valve vaccum line with a T connection as I believe the manifold on your car is a phase 1 which don't have a spare nipple.. but phase 2 have a spare nipple.. mmmmm nipples..
Simon
Boost gauge plumb it into the dump valve vaccum line with a T connection as I believe the manifold on your car is a phase 1 which don't have a spare nipple.. but phase 2 have a spare nipple.. mmmmm nipples..
Simon
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If that is the case then in the middle of the inlet manifold where the vaccum line connect to there should be a blank which you can remove and plumb into that. I think there is a point where the manifold is phase 1 but phase 2 stuff is fitted to it so you could still have a phase 1. But either way when you get under there you should be able to see where to connect it to. Some boost gauges come with a T piece and others don't but the retailer should stock a T piece to suit.
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similar symphtoms.. would be running very rich and not making much boost most likely.. you might see black smoke out of the back if leak is bad.
No worries.
No worries.
#21
I had all the intercooler etc off, wondering if maybe something isnt on just right, i will check later. what make of boost guage shall i get, i have seen one from america in my local store its made by RACE X and is £80 its a digital one. any good?
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A sweeping needle is easier to read that a digital output for boost.
You don't need to pay as must as that..
Have a look at www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk they do mail order..
I think the Racetec is a middle of the road gauge, I have a Tim Turbo one which is very cheap after 3.5years use the backlight has broken and it is about 0.1bar out.. lol
I am hoping to change it too but I think it was £25.
If you want a top of the range jobbie then get a Defi..
Simon
You don't need to pay as must as that..
Have a look at www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk they do mail order..
I think the Racetec is a middle of the road gauge, I have a Tim Turbo one which is very cheap after 3.5years use the backlight has broken and it is about 0.1bar out.. lol
I am hoping to change it too but I think it was £25.
If you want a top of the range jobbie then get a Defi..
Simon
#24
Will check them tonight, its just i read somewhere on here that octane booster does clog em up, so i suppose in theory a pants spark would probably cause power loss? everything is confusing on this car, used to have a BM worked on it no problems, open the bonnet on one of these bad boys and your like "Wo were do i start"
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