How to get a new clutch ?
#1
UK99 turbo 31k miles
First few starts in 1st are juddery, after that not too bad but clutch is heavy. Mate has just got a new clutch and it is soooo light with no judder at all. How can I persuad a dealer to recommend to Subaru that I get a new one ? Is 1 judder a day enough for example ?
Thanks
First few starts in 1st are juddery, after that not too bad but clutch is heavy. Mate has just got a new clutch and it is soooo light with no judder at all. How can I persuad a dealer to recommend to Subaru that I get a new one ? Is 1 judder a day enough for example ?
Thanks
#2
My MY98 has been juddering for the first 5 or six miles over the last 15,000 miles. Have just managed to get it into the dealer for them to look - comment 'they all do that sir' - and don't hold out that much hope.
Would love to know why they are so unwilling to help on this one. It's really hard pulling away in the morning (unless it's damp in the air and then it's not so bad)
Laurence
Would love to know why they are so unwilling to help on this one. It's really hard pulling away in the morning (unless it's damp in the air and then it's not so bad)
Laurence
#3
Gents
I have a bit of experience with this. Took my car to Lancaster in pangbourne (near Reading). They seemed to know what they were talking about. Apparantly if the Car has done 20,000 miles or less all they do is change the parts and IM pay, No problem there. If it has done over 20k then IM want the dealer to look at the clutch to determin if it has been missused, ie. too made hard blasts from the lights
my car had bad clutch judder from about 4k and my local dealer was not too helpfull, took it to lancaster at 20,500 miles and they changed it in a day. under warranty
Now smooth as silk.
Laurence: your not too far from Reading, give lancaster a call.
I understand Cheam motors also very good.
Scoobs
I have a bit of experience with this. Took my car to Lancaster in pangbourne (near Reading). They seemed to know what they were talking about. Apparantly if the Car has done 20,000 miles or less all they do is change the parts and IM pay, No problem there. If it has done over 20k then IM want the dealer to look at the clutch to determin if it has been missused, ie. too made hard blasts from the lights
my car had bad clutch judder from about 4k and my local dealer was not too helpfull, took it to lancaster at 20,500 miles and they changed it in a day. under warranty
Now smooth as silk.
Laurence: your not too far from Reading, give lancaster a call.
I understand Cheam motors also very good.
Scoobs
#5
Having the same problem with a'98 PPP car. Clutch judder developed at around 22,000 miles just after I got it, when I was using the car early in the mornings in spring time. Reported it to the dealer but come summer the problem disappeared, and they have changed their service manager. Now I find the problem reoccurring, but only for the first few starts. Also the thing sounds like a diesel for 5 mins on first start up. Still goes like stink but I think I might have a double Whammy as regards known Scooby problems. I did invest in a 2 year extended warranty when I bought the car 8 months ago, but might the clutch problem just be regarded as wear and tear wrt the mileage, even though the problem comes and goes ? Also the piston slap, is it better to go for the replacement short block or is the larger bore piston adequate?
Sorry to tag on to the original post, but I just thought while you guys were looking....
Sorry to tag on to the original post, but I just thought while you guys were looking....
#6
This is my first time on the scoobynet. I was wondering if anyone can help. My scooby has done 10500 miles and is not yet a year old, very nearly. Two months ago I had a new clutch because of the juddering problem (about 7000 miles). They said that an oil seal had gone and oil had leaked onto the clutch. Within the past week the clutch again had started to judder when cold. I was wondering if this is common and if anyone else has had this recurring problem??
#7
well jkj2 you won't get a replacement block as the piston is the only fix that i.m will do and it does work but get the dealer to do no.s 2 and 4 at the same time
rach the oil leak comes from a breather plate behind the flywheel it does look like the rear main seal is leaking but it's not. check with your dealer as to what it was he replaced the plate only has a bead of sealent around itit could be if the dealer replaced the rear main then the oil leak is still there and contaminated your new clutch
rach the oil leak comes from a breather plate behind the flywheel it does look like the rear main seal is leaking but it's not. check with your dealer as to what it was he replaced the plate only has a bead of sealent around itit could be if the dealer replaced the rear main then the oil leak is still there and contaminated your new clutch
Trending Topics
#8
Rach
In reply to your specific question, I had mine replaced under warranty at around 35K after first mentioning it at 17K and being given usual 'they all do that' response. To their credit they did it in the end.
It started when cold but got worse until it was juddering all the time.
Replacement started juddering when cold after about 5K. Haven't gone back about it yet - seems like that's how they are. 'They all do that' seems was the correct explanation!.
Good luck, and don't give in.
In reply to your specific question, I had mine replaced under warranty at around 35K after first mentioning it at 17K and being given usual 'they all do that' response. To their credit they did it in the end.
It started when cold but got worse until it was juddering all the time.
Replacement started juddering when cold after about 5K. Haven't gone back about it yet - seems like that's how they are. 'They all do that' seems was the correct explanation!.
Good luck, and don't give in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post