Engine Noise Started - Is there a problem with my car?
22 May 2001, 09:39 PM
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I recently bought my first Subaru, a MY98/99 unmodified Impreza Turbo, 6 weeks ago from a Subaru Dealership.
When I first had the car the engine was really quiet when ticking over just like I expected for a 15k mile car. Over the last few weeks however, I 've noticed that the engine has started to sound excessively noisy (tappity and clattery/knocking sounds with an occasional light whining and hesitancy when pulling away), particularly when starting from cold. As I have never had a previous Subaru to compare with I don't know whether this is normal.
I don't know if this is of any significance but I have also noticed when idling that the needle on the rev counter seems to bobble about eratically between 1 & 1.5K revs (cold) and 0.7 & 0.9(warm). Whereas beforehand it sat dead on around 1.3/1.4k (cold) and 800 (warm). I've done near 2k miles in it, does it maybe just need tuned? I would be interested to know whether this is common or if there might be a problem I should get checked out.
I would appreciate any comments.
Cheers !
[This message has been edited by BEL (edited 23 May 2001).]
When I first had the car the engine was really quiet when ticking over just like I expected for a 15k mile car. Over the last few weeks however, I 've noticed that the engine has started to sound excessively noisy (tappity and clattery/knocking sounds with an occasional light whining and hesitancy when pulling away), particularly when starting from cold. As I have never had a previous Subaru to compare with I don't know whether this is normal.
I don't know if this is of any significance but I have also noticed when idling that the needle on the rev counter seems to bobble about eratically between 1 & 1.5K revs (cold) and 0.7 & 0.9(warm). Whereas beforehand it sat dead on around 1.3/1.4k (cold) and 800 (warm). I've done near 2k miles in it, does it maybe just need tuned? I would be interested to know whether this is common or if there might be a problem I should get checked out.
I would appreciate any comments.
Cheers !
[This message has been edited by BEL (edited 23 May 2001).]
23 May 2001, 08:10 AM
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Sorry to say this BEL but you're up **** creek. 
Nah seriously mate it could be a number of things. Do a search on key words like engine noise, hesitation etc with the bbs search function.
MY98/99? This is a serious question. Which one is it? MY98's are prone to the dreaded piston slap and can be rebuilt under warranty (pain in the @rse I know) as well as the year model either side of that (either MY97 or 99 not sure which one...pretty sure 97).
Also check things like you're engine oil level. Ask the dealer/person you purchased it from what grade of oil and when it was last changed. As oil gets older it's "shear" strength decreases and engine noise increases as a result (along with wear). I recomend Shell Helix Synthetic 1st, Mobil 1 2nd....but there are many different opinions about oild arround here....best to research that yourself but always go synthetic if you want my advice.
You also said a "whining" noise when pulling away. If this is happening (and matching the engine revs)...especially when pulling away from around corners/going around roundabouts etc, then I suggest checking you're power steering fluid level as a start as this can be a big source of "whine" from under the bonnet.
As for your erratic idling mine does that worse than yours but I have a rampod filter setup so the ECU is constantly having to compensate for the changing air flow from it. It could however be a contaminated air sensor....the newer cars have a more senitive sensor than the old ones. If this is so this can be bad news. Some say they need to be replaced, others say you can clean them and reuse...once again if you search on this you will definately find something along those lines.
Oh yeah...you might also want to reset your ECU...This is THE best form of tuneup you can do I've found...really works a treat.
Here is how you do it
Nah seriously mate it could be a number of things. Do a search on key words like engine noise, hesitation etc with the bbs search function.
MY98/99? This is a serious question. Which one is it? MY98's are prone to the dreaded piston slap and can be rebuilt under warranty (pain in the @rse I know) as well as the year model either side of that (either MY97 or 99 not sure which one...pretty sure 97).
Also check things like you're engine oil level. Ask the dealer/person you purchased it from what grade of oil and when it was last changed. As oil gets older it's "shear" strength decreases and engine noise increases as a result (along with wear). I recomend Shell Helix Synthetic 1st, Mobil 1 2nd....but there are many different opinions about oild arround here....best to research that yourself but always go synthetic if you want my advice.
You also said a "whining" noise when pulling away. If this is happening (and matching the engine revs)...especially when pulling away from around corners/going around roundabouts etc, then I suggest checking you're power steering fluid level as a start as this can be a big source of "whine" from under the bonnet.
As for your erratic idling mine does that worse than yours but I have a rampod filter setup so the ECU is constantly having to compensate for the changing air flow from it. It could however be a contaminated air sensor....the newer cars have a more senitive sensor than the old ones. If this is so this can be bad news. Some say they need to be replaced, others say you can clean them and reuse...once again if you search on this you will definately find something along those lines.
Oh yeah...you might also want to reset your ECU...This is THE best form of tuneup you can do I've found...really works a treat.
Here is how you do it
29 May 2001, 08:19 PM
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Cheers Greg !
I reset the ECU as described.... Yeeehaah!
What a difference, the engine instantly sounded better and drives much smoother.
Also noticed that the needle on the rev counter sits still when idling.
I was worried when i read about piston slap noises after searching through some other message postings as mine is MY98 and also the fact that the noise was worse when starting from cold. However, the problem seems to be cured now.
I'll keep an eye on things over the next week just to make sure. (which is as good an excuse as any to go out and enjoy a right good blast in it)
Meantime Thanx a lot buddy !:-)
I reset the ECU as described.... Yeeehaah!
What a difference, the engine instantly sounded better and drives much smoother.
Also noticed that the needle on the rev counter sits still when idling.
I was worried when i read about piston slap noises after searching through some other message postings as mine is MY98 and also the fact that the noise was worse when starting from cold. However, the problem seems to be cured now.
I'll keep an eye on things over the next week just to make sure. (which is as good an excuse as any to go out and enjoy a right good blast in it)
Meantime Thanx a lot buddy !:-)
30 May 2001, 12:21 PM
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Thats great news BEL, glad I could help.
Just make sure after the ECU reset that you now run it constantly on the fuel of your choice (preferably higher octane), as this is what the ECU reset is mainly for.
PS I had to split this post in two parts because for some reason I cant submit largish amounts of text sometimes
[This message has been edited by Gerg2 (edited 30 May 2001).]
Just make sure after the ECU reset that you now run it constantly on the fuel of your choice (preferably higher octane), as this is what the ECU reset is mainly for.
PS I had to split this post in two parts because for some reason I cant submit largish amounts of text sometimes
[This message has been edited by Gerg2 (edited 30 May 2001).]
30 May 2001, 12:45 PM
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Part2 
And also while the ECU is "relearning" (yes I'm serious) for the first 50 or so miles, I'd suggest for optimal results try to neither "thrash" the car nor drive it sedately. Try to find a happy medium between the two as this is best after a reset as a general rule. If you dont like the results reset again but like I said before, the most important part is to run on the same type of fuel (pretty much for good).
Anyway let us know how you get on and like I said before....stick around...there's a lot to "give and get" here
Greg.
And also while the ECU is "relearning" (yes I'm serious) for the first 50 or so miles, I'd suggest for optimal results try to neither "thrash" the car nor drive it sedately. Try to find a happy medium between the two as this is best after a reset as a general rule. If you dont like the results reset again but like I said before, the most important part is to run on the same type of fuel (pretty much for good).
Anyway let us know how you get on and like I said before....stick around...there's a lot to "give and get" here
Greg.
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