Maxy_UK

Hi all

I have been looking for a dump valve (to atmos)for my std MY00. I have seen 2 which are for cars with air meters before the turbo; a forge unit and a bailey DV26. Does anyone here run one of these? Which would you recommend? Would i need a fitting kit or will it just fit onto standard hoses?

How much would fitting a dump to atmos valve have on the richness at which the engine runs? Would this be a problem?

I am all questions today

Thanks in advance

Ian

ChristianR

iTrader: (1)

pittttissshhhhhhh

sounds naff i find! I had one on my diahatsu charade gtti 1litre turbo, I thought it sounded good, but now I think boyracer everytime I here run - I dont personally think it does anythign for the scooby, apart from make it cheap and tacky - well ones that go pittttissshhhhhhh !

pittttissshhhhhhh
pittttissshhhhhhh
pittttissshhhhhhh

Maxy_UK

Nice

Guess im a boy racer

Ian

[This message has been edited by Maxy_UK (edited 29 March 2001).]

ROBERT BARNES

I will have a BLITZ super sound blow off valve,dump valve availble next week with the fitting kit if your interested they cost £240 quid new make me a offer.

Simon

Ian,

The atmos valves that are supposedly designed for cars with air flow meters before the turbo are still not really a good idea, they just simply prevent the eratic idling and stalling that a normal dump valve can cause.

Dump valves are designed to remain shut when there is positive manifold pressure, and as soon as there is not, they should open. When your car is idling there is manifold vacuum, which on a standard dump valve means it should open, which causes the stalling/idling problems. The type of dumpvalves you mention are simply fitted with a stronger spring which means they require a higher manifold vacuum than that achieved at idle to open.

These still do not solve the running rich problems of which you are obviously aware.

Simon