I have fonded it:

 

Erik,

Just Do It.... LOL

OK, water injection may be used to achieve two goals, first to reduce charge temperature, and second to reduce the risk of detonation in the cylinders. If you just wanna lower temps, fit the jet before the intercooler, if you wanna control det, fit it after the intercooler. In any case, W.I. will rob power, up to about 8bhp. This is not good if you're not having "problems" to start with, and you can't reprogram your engine management.

But if you are getting det, and your ECU is backing off the ignition timing then it is possible that the water will allow it to advance the timing again, thereby gaining more than the 8bhp lost, and so overall you're onto a winner. If you can reprogram your engine management then W.I. is a little miracle worker, since you can remap to take advantage of the water... this can make a huge difference!

Hope this helps,

Pat.

 

Pat, if you want to place the jet aftet the Intercooler were do u place it, since there is really not much space let, just a hose and then the Throttle Body....... (got any pictures???)

 

Carlos

Being the sad individual that I am - I have just gone out into the company car park and taken some pictures:

 

Rich,

Yes, very sad

I'm guessing but that looks distinctly like a Powerstation install with the Samco hose setup ?

Cheers

Ian

 

Rich
hold on a second here . your turbo pluming is all different !! the blue vac tubes from the turbo wastegate and outlet should be going to the 2 port soleniod you have on the driver side of the car but instead they go to the driver side.. so what is that you have on the driver side ? also what ECU are you running with water injection ?
doe sit make a difference on a UK car ?

looks very interesting

 

Sam,

Nothing that interesting I'm afraid

The tubing runs to an HKS EVC IV boost controller (closed loop). Think it should have been installed on the drivers side closer to the turbo (which would have used much less tubing) making the boost easier to control.

I like the fact that the boost controller can be adjusted in-car so should any problems arise (pump packs up, jets get blocked, runs out of water, iffy tank of super, very hot day etc. etc.) I can lower the boost to be on the safe side.

Mapped with a Unichip. Got the WI purely for safety reasons and am running 1.2 bar (UK car) without any hint of det. Not sure what boost I could safely run with this setup and standard internals/turbo etc.

Next I want to set up the WI so it only comes on above say .8 bar and only when charge temps require it. Think Mike R used to supply these kits (samples temp every second and works with this aquamist system). Anybody used one of these?

Ian - you got it

Rich.

 

 

thanks Rich.
i think this is very interesting as it could be the just what i am looking for
where did you hide the tank and how big is it ?
i am running my MY99 UK car at 1.25bar to 6500rpm and then it tails of to 1 bar to the red line. i am using link ecu, and a VF23. i have been thinking A LOT about a FMIC but i was not impressed by the cost and labour among other things that are involved so WI maybe a cheaper and better option. the other thing i run intercooler waterspray for trackdays which is good but i go through 10L of water within 15-20mins tops . how much is the average water consumption for the WI ? the aim is for it to come on around 1 bar or so.

is it possible to provide a piccy of your water tank pleeeeeease.

sam

 

Carlos - using 1 * 0.5mm jet. Samco hoses thru Powerstation

Sam - just using the windscreen washer tank at the moment with a 10% flammable screen wash mix. It gets through about half a tank per 20 min session on track - so not too bad. I think it runs at 8 bar using the standard 0.5mm jet.

I was also thinking about teeing an intercooler spray kit into the WI nylon hose but this put me off for the moment as it will go through double the amount of water. Might opt for this in the summer and connect it when necessary (eg track). Also want to get the optional float switch before hand and set it up to disable the pump before the water runs out and wire up the warning LED in the dash.

Rich.

 

Thanx Rich for the pictures.....BTW does anyone know were i can get that Samco Hose (the one that is used to fit the water jet?)

Also Rich are u using one or two water jets??, and do u know the size of water jet u are using?

Thanx,
Carlos H.

 

Thanx.....

 

BTW, Spearco also do a WI kit for US$199 which is much cheaper than the Aquamist system.

I don't think it is comparing apples with apples but worth a look anyhow:

 

hi rich

the intercooler water spray is not really worth it if your going to use WI running 1.3-1.3 bar ( i think ). but where can you get the float switch from ? the problem with our cars, especailly because we are running so much more boost than standard, is the build up of heat. i find the after few labs on a track my knock link starts to pick up few knocks. i think WI will probably help a lot. i will probably go for a good 10-15L tank at the boot though to make sure there is always enough water.

Gavin the man
you always seem to know all the websites i think you have given intercooling in general a very good thought
do you know how much pressure is that spearco pump running at ?

sam

 

I don't know any details about the kit unfortunately but Spearco have a very good reputation for intercoolers.

Once Spearco dealer I found has some additional details on their site (about WI and intercooling in general):

 

Sam - Float switch details from Aquamist's site:




Full details under 'FITTING/TIPS' at:

 

hi Rich

thanks for the info. this will probably be my summer project, if I still have the car by then . do you know if any one have had the WI before the intercooler and not after ? one concern of course is you will probably loose a little power ( I know you can map it out by advancing the ignition )but what happen if you run out of water on track ?.

the VF23 is great the best upgrade I have done to the car. the vf23 + link or unichip etc.. is probably the best upgrade you can get for the UK cars. on a RR day few months back I had more bhp and a lot more torque than all stis, UK cars with various modes apart from a 22B. 280bhp and 285 lb/ft of torque. and before you say that the roller were generous few standard standard cars were putting down 210bhp and 200lb/ft and stis 260/250 consistently.

gavip
what you need to find out is a company that will sell you a cheapish ( below 1k fitted ) front mounted intercooler that would not need the pumper modified. or is this just far to much to ask. they are not that expensive in OZ, NZ and the states but they seem very expensive by the time the come over here.

 

Sam,

I have a chargecooler setup already - why would I want to compromise ?

Being serious, the cheapest place for an Impreza front mount kit I've found in the UK is likely to be

 

Sam - No idea about anyone fitting before the intercooler.

With the float switch you should never run out of water as it should warn you well before (depending on how high/low it is fitted in the tank). If you are worried about not noticing the led you could always wire it to an audiable alarm.

Currently making enquiries about a VF23

With the right mapping - how much lag do you get? Should you always go for a new one or can you risk second hand?

Cheers
Rich

 

gavin
i have been waiting for this for quite a while now. there is a new kit being developed by falkland and either forge motor sport or pace where the radiator is replaced by a big radiator intercooler one piece thing, looks like a very big intercooler. however i am not very sure about the design as the radiator is stuck side by side to the intercooler ? i am worried like heat of the radiator radiating ( funnily enough ) to the intercooler and warming up my precious air

Rich
i got my turbo from Universal turbos for a very good price. TRY THEM FIRST YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED. you can always get a second hand one and get it checked i think it cost around only £25 at places like turbo dynamics , turbo shop, universal turbo etc...

you would get a bit more lag. but is does not really matter as you drive in one lower gear than normal. at the moment i can get full boost by arounf 3600-3700rpm with no over boost so i can get it earlier but i will get some over boost at that expense. with the normal TD04L turbo i was getting full boost at 3200.
two thing you have to keep in mind though. first you are blowing cooler denser air so it provides more power at lower boost. second you are pushing a lot more air at any given boost compared to your old turbo. and also you can really up the advance at the bottom end since your boost does rise later. ( that is three thing sorry )

go for it you won't regret it

 

How much extra power Pat?

 

BTTT :-)