john banks

My car has developed a clicking from the right wheel area on sharp left handers which is speed related. Initially it was only on full lock, now on 3/4 lock or more.

Can the CV joint only be changed or does it mean a driveshaft?

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

John,

You can replace the Joint, takes longer to do , than replacing the shaft, I did source a couple of new shafts for about £180 & my way of thinking is they have both done the same mileage & the other shaft may develop the same fault
Dean

john banks

Best to buy a new joint from Subaru? Something from a breakers could be worse?

It has only done 33000 gentle miles

DeanF

iTrader: (1)

Gentle, Hmm
Subaru prices are Phenominal, I had selective deafness when they told me how much,. I can drop you a Mail if you like with a contact tele number & name for the driveshafts..
Let me Know

Dean

john banks

That would be great johnbanks@dsl.pipex.com

MKC

How long roughly does it take to change the CV joint ?
Ta.

grahamfrary

The symptoms would seem to be wrong for the cv. The inside wheel is on the tighter line, so it should be that one which clicked. It worked that way on a mini anyway! I thought the 'left hand knock' was usually the downpipe catching the steering joint - gets worse as the engine mounts get older.

Graham

john banks

It was actually the gearbox which failed a few days later.

stevie boy

unlucky mate,

think i am in the same boat though. sounds like somethink catching, thought it was possible brake pipe catching at first, but couldn't see anything fouling on inspection. so up until now was also thinking it was the outer cv joint or poss wheel bearing. what exactly went wrong with the box/how much of a wallet lightener/how long did it last making the noise?

cheers mate

EMS

A time ago I also had clicking noise while making sharp corners, higher corner speed made things worse. We changed both front drive shafts (complete). Directly after changing it seemed to be O.K. but after a few kilometers it came back.... After that we changed wheel bearings, guess what: no difference. After that I gave up on it and did a few track days and it didn´t get worse. A few month ago I changed my AP brake discs with seperate bell housing for standard brake discs and the clicking sound was gone!!!

A Subaru dealer overhere also had some customers complaining about clicking sound while cornering and most of them had aftermarket brake kits. I didn´t investigate it further, but perhaps tightening the bolts between disk and bell housing could do the trick. Perhaps it´s your wheel bearing, but I don´t think it´s the CV joint.

Mark.

beryllium

have had a similar noise whith my AP.
the braket's nuts were too near from the wheels because the washers have been fited on the wrong side.
i understod when i saw stripes on the internal side of the wheel.
donkey

EMS

Nothing was touching my wheels in my case!

Mark.

Ederijke

Some time ago i had the same clicking sound on both front wheels.
Replacing driveshafts didn't help. Replacing bearings did help, until i killed the bearings again on a trackday. Maybe it's related but i have the AP 330mm 4 pot set.
We (my dealer and i) removed one side of the suspension and found the wheelbearing had become excentric. If the hub (the part that holds the wheel) was rotated to a certain position there was play in the bearing. In any other position no play.
We checked the assembly that holds the bearings (don't know what that is called in English) and that seemed to be OK (and perfectly round). I'm not sure if the hubs are still 100% OK.

So i must have killed the bearings again, but am not sure why.
We think it may be heat related, because the AP set really can put some heat in the hubs.
I don't think it was a bad bearing because it is on both sides at the same time.

So next move is to change the bearings and hubs. Then hopefully i won't break them again.

Eric