scoobystan

I have a V5 STi Type R,
I plan the following mods;

Lightened billet flywheel
lightened alloy pulleys
uprated cambelt(piper or kent cams)
magnecor leads 8.5mm
full de-cat exhaust and downpipe(de-cat)
Oil cooler

I have a HKS AFR and a FCD
also HKS SQV BOV, HKS Ind kit

What over things d you people think i should do to compliment these mods, im not really after tons of power, just about 320-350 horses and i would be happy.

Maybe a boost upgrade to 1.2/1.3 BAR instead of standard boost.?

Please feel free to advise

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

A remapped ecu would be a good idea as the general consensus is that modified jap cars without being re mapped can have engine problems (ie like it blows up type engine problems! )
This is my suggestion (the ecu )

Tony

Dave R

I've done this to the very same model...

K&N Induction Kit
Full Magnex decat system
Link ECU
Forge Recirc DV

Not going to do anymore.
To go further, gotta go for a front mount intercooler and bigger blower...

Daver

dazzaTypeR

You guys may be the best ones to help me then...

I like yourselves, STi 6 Type R and would now like some more poke not nowt huge or owt.

Stan what sort of power you running at mo.

The mods I would like to make is,

Full decat
Flywheel, what's the cost of this Stan and what differences did it make
lightened alloy pulleys, as above
uprated cambelt(piper or kent cams), cost
Oil cooler kit
Uprated oil & fuel pumps.

Cheers stan

Anyone suggest at which stage to go for re-map and cost of job, I'm looking at doing my alts over the next year or sooner if I have my way.

5 Type R

Hi Guys I have a Version 5 Type R and have modded it to get approx (310lbft) and 220-230bhp at the wheels) Dyno approx 310 (depends which one)..............Suffice to say it is very lively now.

The most important mod definately is a remapp for any mods you do do.
Many options available i.e Link, Gems.........However I highly recommend the Dastek Unichip as a cost affective alternative to a full replacement ECU.
Any of the above are only as good as the person mapping.........I recommend from experience (www.owendevelopments.co.uk). Definately Dastek mapping experts

Feel free to mail me offline for further details of my mods.

DangerousDave

I, like the vast majority on here, would recommend a Link setup as the best, most cost effective remap. No contest.

Maybe an ECUTEK, but go for the Link if you can..

Look at www.brdevelopments.com for details..

D

what would scooby do

I had my Type R v5 "linked" by BR Developments - still can't believe how much better the car is !

5 Type R

Not wishing to get into an argument over this is better than that etc etc.................but with regard to a specific quote.....

"most cost effective remap"

-I believe that a Link fully mapped by Bob etc is approx £1500.00
(not knocking ....lots of very happy owners on the list.Pardon the pun!!!!Bobs proved to be one of the best around)

-A Dastek Unichip is £550+VAT including EBC module, if required.
(Plenty of scoob owners with bad experiences - Agreed)

All ECUs whether full replacement or piggyback are only as good as the people mapping them. Not many people know Owens but they are the best for Unichip without doubt (full 30 day money back gaurantee).
At a recent dyno day my scoob was the most powerful present, although there were no real monsters . Having said this there were plenty of cars with equal or greater mods , running more boost!!
As previously stated I am not taking anything away from all the other products but when it comes to "most cost effective remap", I think a sorted Unichip takes some beating.

scoobystan

i have been quoted 800 pounds for a remap of the origional ECU by PRO-Drive thru my dealer, P.S. I LIVE IN CYPRUS AND THEY WOULD COME OUT WITH LAPTOP AND SOFTWARE AND DO JOB WITH ME DRIVING ALL DAY TO GET BEST SET UP!!

john banks

The Unichip boost module - is that the one with fixed duty cycles by RPM rather than closed loop boost control or has their 3d boost control module come out yet?

Custom remaps using Ecutek software start from £650. They is no real obstruction to power until you get to 1.7 bar or 25 PSI, which has not been breached with it yet (running my UK car at 1.67 bar dropping to 1.5 bar at the top, about 315 BHP at the wheels, about 380 BHP flywheel, need to confirm on good rollers), but will be soon.

myp1

john have u gone internal yet..as i wld like to run those kind of figures




[Edited by myp1 - 2/15/2003 4:54:22 AM]

john banks

Not yet, UK engine seems happy, but I am no longer using it as a daily driver since it broke a gearbox since the gearbox or the engine could pop at this level at any time. I am sorting out a medium boost (say 1.3 bar) 2.5 litre block with a target of 450 BHP and 400 lbft with reliability (partly because this is all the best synchro gearboxes and easy to drive clutches are rated to so I don't need to go bonkers with a REALLY expensive 2.5 IMHO) at hopefully not silly money, plus decent Lateral Performance cluth and gearbox. The engine block was £300, using original crank, need new bearings £150, gaskets £200, pistons about £300, rods to be priced. Going for a TD06 upgrade of the TD05 which is about £300. Still planning on using the original ECU. It is basically no more expensive to do a 2.5 than a 2.0 hence the low boost, lots of torque.

[Edited by john banks - 2/14/2003 8:10:46 PM]

myp1

does a 2.5 bottom end use all the same bits on top eg maf/inlet manifold/throttle body jecs ecu etc or are there any other changes to be made apart from bottom end..what block are u using..dont want to rob ideas just interested about all diff options as i am unable to do work myself i have to get detailed explanations from others..email if u prefer thks paul

john banks

No problem with sharing info, the Legacy 2.5 litre blocks bolt straight onto all the existing Impreza 2.0 bits. However, will also be changing the middle two bolts to studs to help the head gasket integrity. The bore walls are thinner on the 2.5, and it is an open deck design like all the recent 2.0s except the STi 7. But with steel rods and forged pistons I think it will be very unstressed at 450 BHP and 400 lbft and very pleasant to drive. Would hope to hold 400 lbft from as early as possible to 5900 RPM with peak power of 450 BHP at about 5900 RPM, should be quite easy to achieve and really quite unstressed.

[Edited by john banks - 2/14/2003 9:02:38 PM]

Bob Rawle

Like for like the Link ecu on its own supplied fitted and mapped by us would come to around £821, however there are sensible additions to that which are recommended and are options. These can take the cost up but is owners choice.

Worth mentioning that as a result of our appointment as European distributer for Link Electrosystems we are going to be able to offer more advantageous pricing on these upgrades hence the above figures.

A factory ecu remap using Ecutek software would be around £763 at the same level.

Gems would be £1542 at the same level afaik at this time.

Unichip may need an additional boost controller that takes the price up, not sure about that.


Just so we are talking apples for apples.

All inclusive of vat btw.

thanks

cheers

Bob

motomc1

HO JOHN what is the max on a standard uk gear box ???would it take 350 for long .running 323 at the moment

Bob Rawle

Mines done 14500 miles so far. (edited to say at current performance levels)

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 2/14/2003 11:30:05 PM]

Mad Scientist

Make sure its mapped right........ my mate took the cats off his P1 a month ago and it blew up last week! BEWARE!!

Fat Boy

get some sensors on there - knocklink, lambda link ,etc other gauges if you want, run octane booster as well all the time (at least until remap) and hopefully you will be able to stop your engine grenading...