How much torque/power are they good for and what suitable alternatives are available and £?

 

Not sure about the driveshafs, but diffs are available to meet basically any achievable torque and power levels. Price for a custom made Japanese diff that will hold up to 600 ft/lbs and 600 bhp is several thousand pounds. There was also a link moses provided for an UK company that makes appearently strong diffs. Not sure moses reads this section though

 

Std driveshafts are rated for 350 rally stage km.

Prodrive uprated driveshafts are rated for 1000 rally stage km, but cost a rather eyewatering £1500+vat each.

So John, will you be wanting four or just two uprated driveshafts?

Paul

 

John when I asked the same before two months and sent some e-mails to every Subaru specialist in Europe (even Prodrive) they told me that YOU DON'T NEED TO CHANGE DRIVESHAFT is one of the hardest parts in our cars!
Only a mechanic told me that he has a worn driveshaft after many hours of hard track driving but it was due to excessive pressure on the race!
I don't know about Differentials too much except that Quaife makes a very good rear one for MY99-00 cars at very competitive price and is torsen, much better than original.
JIM

 

Just a tuppence worth, but we looked at some the other day for a car and it would appear the UK shafts are thicker in diameter than the Sti's ?

Bit odd i thought but definitely different thickness's.

Anyone know of the different shafts available? I know *some* if not all Sti's have a longer shaft (think it's N/S) for the rear diff

Alan

 

John, i doubt you need upgraded diffs for normal road & track use. VC LSD stock units will give up differentiating at around 4kg, even uprated units of 10KG or 20 KG will not severly load their pinions respectively no matter what torque is produced by your engine.
So unless you're pulling some serious G's on a track on super sticky tires or putting them through the abuse of Gravel and mud tracks like Pavlo mentioned ala WRC, diff & shaft loading (or heat generated within) will be no different to a stock UK car running at the same lateral G's as yours.
This doesn't quite hold though for Locked type or highly preloaded platted diffs, as they will try to instantaneously transfer whatever torque is presented to them onto the wheel.

George

 

George,

THe problems occur when you start looking at 400+ ft-lbs of torque and hard launches for that odd occasion when you go to the drag strip!

Rally stage Km covers full on anti lag launches and hard shifts both up and down a dog box.

Paul

 

Fully agree PAVLO, i thought about mentioning it but I had no idea of the actual limits for a Drag application. I guess then that a set of worn out tires will be a cheaper solution than uprated diffs for any heavilly modded car. LOL

George
PS.By the way, i've destroyed a front diff on a Cordoba GTI few years back and was really funny as the VW mechanic told me then "boy, you either don't know how to drive or you're damn good driver" as it was the first incident they'd had on that car.

 

Rear diffs on Evos break regularly as well. With over 500 ft/lbs of torque and 600 bhp anyway

 

medina (sp) diff?

Driveshafts arent worth worrying about... snap it.. replace it..

David

 

Mark is the man to go to for diffs,

modena atbs for front rear and even centre. Supposed to have high torque ratings,

I am not convinced about having an atb centre diff.

As for driveshafts, I am not too worried since the torque split makes the rear more important than the front and the R180 rear diff of the type r comes equipped with stronger and thicker rear driveshafts.

You can always go to drade a and attempt to retrofit these, but it will cost you your abs when you change the rear hubs.

Failing that custom drivehsfts made from stronger material S99 steel for example.