MichaelG

Im already assuming the answer to this question is yes cos it comes with no instructions and to me (no expert) looks like i will need a spanner and about 10 mins to do the job. Im about to go and do it so if its any trouble please reply and tell me to wait till the weekend!

Steve777

iTrader: (8)

Took me about 20 mins to fit mine on the drive

Remove small rubber pipe, should just ease off
Release to fixing screws being careful not to damage the face of where it sits (Can't remember if there is a gasket behind it)
Pull the standard dump valve upwards so that you can get to the clip holding the recirc pipe. Using pliers grip the clip(Gently so's not to damage it)and ease the recirc pipe off

Take the Silver bung and fit onto the recirc pipe and ensure clip grips the body (You'll understand this when you do it)

Check that the valve on the Forge moves and does not stick (Quite a strong spring so you won't get much movement)

Use the gasket off the original (If there was one - still can't remember on this one) and retighten bolts evenly (Don't go mad and over tighten - Use proper spanner if you have one)

Replace small pipe

I blipped the throttle on the drive whilst somebody else listened to see if it was lifting before taking for a run

Start engine and take for a small run and listen !

Should free off further after a few miles

Job Done - Nice shinny new dump valve !!!

rb5_336

I fitted mine recently and didnt notice any external moving parts ? Also i have a real problem when i come off boost that the car judders. Have I ***** it up ? :-)
Sean

Steve777

iTrader: (8)

Once fitted you can't see the moving part. If the valve isn't moving freely (Hence the check before fitting) then it may not be venting all the boost pressure as quickly as it should, hence possible vibration.

take the valve off and check that the valve moves reasnobaly freely. It is a strong spring so takes some shifting, but it should still move fairly smoothly. I have has no problems with mine

Sometimes you tend to lift too quickly just so you can here the dump valve noise! ? which can make the car jump a bit.

Hope this helps

Mickle

Only problem I noticed with my Forge VTA dumpvalve. The original gasket did not work for me again (Funny noises when booting it). I was loosing preasure through it. Went down to Halfords, got myself some of that blue gasket stuff and made the seal myself with that and without the original.

Excellent now, no loss of gases

Steve777

iTrader: (8)

My gasket (Now I have remembered there is one !) was in near perfect condition as the car is only 20 months old

Dark Blue Mark

I fitted mine in the AD break from Goldeneye last week. All the tools lined up ready to go! Quite a challenge

MB

Fat Blerk

My Forge valve has been on and off more often than my underpants in the last couple of weeks, while I messed with various spring/spacer combinations.........

I've now got the removal - strip - rebuild - fit down to about ten minutes!!!!

RB5-336- the judder you've got can be fixed with the spring rates.... the softer the spring, the louder and longer the dump, the more likely a pop and a bang and the worse the judder.....also boost builds much more slowly..

Stiffen it up - shorter, quiter dump, less fuel overrun, less judder, faster boost build.....but valve doesn't open until lifting off at higher revs......

Play with it till its how you like it, is my advice.......

rb5_336

interesting, i have the red spring in it at the mo with judder, Blue one arrived this morning, so will fit that tomorrow. But according to the previous post, this will judder more..****!
Sean

Dark Blue Mark

The rate at which it closes with a softer spring will mean less judder (in theory). If it slammed shut the effect on the turbine would cause more backpressure, thus dead heading it. When you let off the spring is forced open by the boost, a stronger spring would shut quicker and if too strong, would trap boost.

I think the way you drive changes, trying to make it whoosh, has a lot to do with it

MB

Fat Blerk

D'you know........ I have a sneaking suspicion you're right.....

If I step off the pedal hard......I get a judder..... if I slip gently and serenly off the pedal, it's smooth and sweet, but less whoosh........

Perhaps the big kid in me is causing judder, not the valve.

Mind you, when I had the red spring, which didn't open AT ALL under 6000 RPMs I got no judder - but as you say DBM, if it ain't open, the rate at which it closes doesn't make one iota of difference. The lord giveth (whoosh!) and he taketh away (judder).