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Old 12 February 2002, 08:15 AM
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Scott.T
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As I run that map in my UK without Knocklinks.... I think you could say I am pretty confident 'BUT'. I am looknig at getting a Knocklink tho' but only cause I want to increase my boost further.
Chris Palmer also runs a variation of this map 16/17psi I think, which he has produced himself... he also does not have a Knocklink (yet) and at 3 Rolling Road days has not had any signs of detonation (although cars do vary).

[Edited by Scott.T - 12/2/2002 8:16:55 AM]
Old 24 November 2002, 11:15 AM
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Markus
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I know, odd place for this, but.. it's where the people I'm addressing 'hang out' Mods move elsewhere if you wish.

Would just like to say:

Wow! and Well done! to all of you chaps who have been DIYing your scoobs, be it ECU monitors, ECU adaptor boards with new maps, FMIC's, or other little diy projects on your scoobs.

I'm totally amazed by what I read in here, and it's teaching me that it's not so difficult to DIY a performance car. Plus it's great to see that some of this stuff is being done to 'older' cars, like mine! and that gives me a sense of pride of owning an old wreck

Keep it up chaps, can't wait for the "DIY 2.5l conversion" thread
Old 24 November 2002, 11:42 AM
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Katana
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I'm waiting fot the DIY Synchroless Gearbox thread.
Old 24 November 2002, 03:41 PM
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David_Wallis
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Location: Leeds - It was 562.4bhp@28psi on Optimax, How much closer to 600 with race fuel and a bigger turbo?
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Im covering both those shortly.
Old 24 November 2002, 04:17 PM
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DIY bank job....
Old 24 November 2002, 04:33 PM
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Katana
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David if you do that I'll forever love you (not gay)..
Old 24 November 2002, 06:23 PM
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David_Wallis
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Well Im going to change the syncro's anyway.

David
Old 24 November 2002, 06:50 PM
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Katana
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They won't last mate. Trust me. If you figure out a way how to get rid of them synchros without spending 3k, you'll be our all time hero.

edit: besides, i somehow always manage to beat the synchros anyway with my lightningly bruce lee quick gearchange.

[Edited by Katana - 11/24/2002 7:02:32 PM]
Old 25 November 2002, 01:16 PM
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Well said Markus!

We now need a competition to see who's got the cheapest bhp gain/pound spent. We'll need a RR day for all the DIYers/cheapskates to prove the point

We don't want any 'buy it off the shelf' 'fit it yourself' DIYers either.

F

Old 25 November 2002, 02:18 PM
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The other great bit is the inspiration someone else's project gives you to get on with yours! It's a really good incentive
Old 25 November 2002, 03:27 PM
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Markus, how do you speak with your mouthfull?
Old 25 November 2002, 05:15 PM
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I believe people should also note how many hours it has taken them to do these DIY mods - that would make a far more interesting read!

Old 25 November 2002, 07:22 PM
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Not that you'd know Christian

F
Old 25 November 2002, 07:37 PM
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Andy.F
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Ok I'll kick it off.... 400 bhp for £860 plus a few hours of my spare time

C'mon Wallis, beat that !!!!
Old 25 November 2002, 11:33 PM
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Hmmm

Ok...

FMIC 9 Months... with not much work... Looking in the folder with all the pictures.. (arranged into days, ie day1, day2,) there is 32 Days... so call it 40 Days evenings and Weekends..

I wasnt rushing to do it... And It changed alot half way..

Cost? its in members gallery

David

Old 25 November 2002, 11:43 PM
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I fitted my own sti titanium gear ****, sti kick plates, and sti chrome petrol cap!! Made my day
Old 26 November 2002, 08:36 AM
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Pushed the manual skills and technical knowledge a bit there Christian
Old 26 November 2002, 12:02 PM
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Markus
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Going to ask a rude question. What kind of mechanical and/or engineering experience do you chaps have?

I only ask as I'm a complete ******** when it comes to greasy bits, and i wanna know if this type of stuff is something a complete fool could try.

Guess I like the idea of getting my hands dirty, and being able to stand back, proud, and say "I did this" (and watch as it promptly falls off! )
Old 26 November 2002, 01:13 PM
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Andy, er not quite....

400bhp minus 230bhp that you started with is 170bhp gained (very good but unverified, by me ) so that's £5/bhp. Not bad!

As for my dabblings, I started with a verified 201bhp (yes really, check dynomite scoobys) and for £20 I got 232bhp, so that's 64p/bhp.

I WIN

I'll need to see an itinery of your costs of course Andy.

F
Old 26 November 2002, 01:23 PM
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come on then ... let us all in on the secret that is 64p/bhp !!

Steve
Old 26 November 2002, 02:18 PM
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David_Wallis
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Bleed Valve / Dawes

What kind of mechanical and/or engineering experience do you chaps have?
None... I was the youngest MCP in the country though at 15. I know NT 3.51 > 2K

I know netware 3.12 > 5

Erm and know compaq servers well..

Cars...

Hmm

Novas, Pug 106's, and Scoobs are my strong points..

I can do Body work, Painting, Engine Rebuilds. etc

I can use a lathe, Milling Machine, I can Weld, I can Paint (cars), I can do electrical Work...

Then I can lay bricks, do plumbing, woodwork, plastering, rewiring..

If you can be bothered then you can do it.. Mind you some people are just Useless, and shouldnt bother.

I'll try anything once.. Except the obvious (Cue P20SPD Laughing)

It also helps that my dad has a few degrees (Electrical Engineering and Mechanical Engineering. )

And if all else fails its not what you know, but Who you know!

David
Old 26 November 2002, 02:41 PM
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Old 26 November 2002, 03:42 PM
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Question, I've had one of these remaps done on my 93 wrx by Scott T. Mine runs a dawes, a full exhaust system and an HKS induction system, what I want to know is what boost can I run safely. This might sound a bit stupid however I've read a few threads suggesting that because all the levels have now been changed I can run approx 1.1bar of boost. Does this remap take into account uk fuel instead of the previous Jap spec fuel, does it run slightly rich et etc. The reason I ask is my car goes in for a service on Saturday and the mechanic swears that you can't change these levels on my car and that it's simply a chip to fool the ECU. Any advice is welcome.
FAO Scott T. It's not that you didn't explain properly, I would just like to know some specifics and boundaries.
Old 26 November 2002, 04:36 PM
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Start with 220 std, unplug map sensor, poke hole in pipe to wastegate actuator, throw away air filter, remove cat and weld in bit of pipe costing £2 from scrappy........270bhp thats er 4p per bhp.
Old 26 November 2002, 04:43 PM
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A difficult one 'big', depends on the map Scott installed. Usually if you have a full decat then 1.1 bar would be ok on SUL fuel. Safest option is to get a knocklink and lamdalink to keep an eye on knock and mixture.
The Remap is not just a chip fooling the ECU it is actually a new set of reference tables for fuel, ignition and boost settings throughout the load and rpm range.
Up until recently, you could not do this yourself. I think your mechanic is referring to a 'superchip' which is different to this option.

Andy
Old 26 November 2002, 04:52 PM
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Big AlT
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Thanks for that Andy, might print it and take it with me. I saw your car last Sat at Knockhill....very impressive. BTW can I change my username BigAlt is now a bit cheesy!!!
Next step after service are some monitoring devices, just really wanted to check if it was ok to set the dawes a little higher without it running lean i.e det. The whole reason for me remapping was to raise the fuel cut and raise boost to around 16 psi.
Cheers
Old 26 November 2002, 05:34 PM
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Another thing to watch when you start increasing the boost is the fuel pump. The originals can start to run out of puff much over 270bhp.

Old 27 November 2002, 08:41 AM
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No, not Dawes, I would have had much more with that method.

Andy, how long would the car last without an air filter and the other 'crazy' mods

I expect when I next RR the car the final figure will be nearer £6/BHP. So not quite as good as Andy (but still haven't seen his full costing yet)....

F

Old 29 November 2002, 08:22 AM
  #29  
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Big AlT,

What's mentioned above is correct. The Remap you have has changed every reference map that the ECU uses for Fuel/Ignition/Boost/Boost Control Duty Cycle/Fuel-Cut Limit etc..etc... other changes are possible for Ignition Correction/Rev limit/Speed limit etc...etc...

A superchip just fools the ECU with a duff signal from the MAP sensor, all other setting are standard, Oh and it also uses a Bleed Valve to up the boost.

If I remember right you are still using the Dawes as you have a problem elswhere which was stopping you boosting above 0.7BAR (before the remap).
Whilst I had your ECU I could of tried it in mine to rule out an ECU fault, but didn't realise/expect it to be the ECU.

P.S if you are thinking of cranking up the boost, I think your fuel-cut limit is set to something like 18.5psi. But PLEASE get a Knocklink 1st.....

[Edited by Scott.T - 11/29/2002 8:23:52 AM]
Old 29 November 2002, 09:14 AM
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Big AlT
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Thanks Scott, I've only adjusted the boost to around 1.1 bar, I assume this is about 15psi and relatively safe to run . I do intend however to get a Knocklink in the near future, I can hear a lot of you now saying argggggh......get a Knocklink. I've heard mixed reports about levels on an earlier WRX but you guys should be able to tell me, is 1.1 bar ok to run just now????


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