p1
11 October 2002, 07:43 PM
#1
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the list is endless take it from me.before doing any mods think well in advance of what ur final hopes are to avoid buying twice.p1 is close to the limit with standard i/cooler.first up scoobysport d/pipe magnex cntre and blitz back box and induction kit shld give 305bhp but get a knocklink and afr.at traffic lights giving it welly knocklink lit up big time so fmic next and induction.beware if u go for aps u will def need remap it runs very lean..with hks u might get away without remap at first.once u start u will find it hard to stop.i know
11 October 2002, 11:27 PM
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I thermocoupled the temperates where the induction kit sits. At a 70 mph cruise the underbonnet temperature was 9 to 12 degrees above ambient. In the wing it was within 1 degree of ambient. Was an easy test since I happened to have an EGT probe connector at the site of a K&N 57i.
Consider that even a front mounted intercooler will get some heatsoak, and that high boost periods can still give charge temperatures above ambient, and there is a strong case for a cold air kit, as long as you protect against water ingress, MAF vibration/contamination/misreads. I therefore don't go in for the line that "I have FMIC/water injection" so you don't need the coolest inlet temperatures possible. It can only give a higher charge temperature without a 100% efficient intercooler. That means less dense cold air, and less ignition timing = less fun. Some do shield off their induction kits under the bonnet to keep them cool. Consider that the approx 10 degree over ambient of this area under the bonnet where I measured is a best case since I was at cruise. Arguably the actual inlet pipe temperature may be lower than this with more airflow from the suction if an actual induction kit was sitting here.... but it depends where the air is sucked from!
However, the APS induction kit is likely to cause a P1 to detonate without a remap - MAF sensor under-reads.
Some say that Blitz, HKS and PiperX induction kits result in a higher risk of MAF failure, others disagree.
So your options retaining the standard ECU are limited, and more so if you want a FMIC. My only real option was APS induction kit, but seriously note the issues with the calibration if you are using a MAF based ECU.
[Edited by john banks - 10/11/2002 11:32:57 PM]
Consider that even a front mounted intercooler will get some heatsoak, and that high boost periods can still give charge temperatures above ambient, and there is a strong case for a cold air kit, as long as you protect against water ingress, MAF vibration/contamination/misreads. I therefore don't go in for the line that "I have FMIC/water injection" so you don't need the coolest inlet temperatures possible. It can only give a higher charge temperature without a 100% efficient intercooler. That means less dense cold air, and less ignition timing = less fun. Some do shield off their induction kits under the bonnet to keep them cool. Consider that the approx 10 degree over ambient of this area under the bonnet where I measured is a best case since I was at cruise. Arguably the actual inlet pipe temperature may be lower than this with more airflow from the suction if an actual induction kit was sitting here.... but it depends where the air is sucked from!
However, the APS induction kit is likely to cause a P1 to detonate without a remap - MAF sensor under-reads.
Some say that Blitz, HKS and PiperX induction kits result in a higher risk of MAF failure, others disagree.
So your options retaining the standard ECU are limited, and more so if you want a FMIC. My only real option was APS induction kit, but seriously note the issues with the calibration if you are using a MAF based ECU.
[Edited by john banks - 10/11/2002 11:32:57 PM]
12 October 2002, 06:02 AM
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john has hit the nail on the head in that aps is good but needs remap if u are going to lightly mod ur car stick to a kn filter and good straight thru d/pipe and back box shd give 300/305 but anymore and u will need to plan according to the pennies avail
12 October 2002, 10:57 AM
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Having been where you are I would suggest :-
1. Bumpsteer/Geometry
2. Maybe some better brakes depending on how you will use the car.
3. A decat if you are not worried about warranty.
4. Some decent driving tuition, assuming you a mere mortal like most of us.
What do you want from the car ?
1. Bumpsteer/Geometry
2. Maybe some better brakes depending on how you will use the car.
3. A decat if you are not worried about warranty.
4. Some decent driving tuition, assuming you a mere mortal like most of us.
What do you want from the car ?
