what upgrades best on a P1
#1
soon 2 be proud owner of a standard P1. going to do sum bits to it...lookin for advice as to best bits to fit
exhaust, brakes, air filter, anything to make it more tasty & awesome, if thats possible
any suggestions?
exhaust, brakes, air filter, anything to make it more tasty & awesome, if thats possible
any suggestions?
#3
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Needs an exhaust (so you can up the boost) and an ECU (to up the boost and fine tune it). Make sure you get the ECU done by professionnals and that it runs a little rich (like 12.5:1)
You will find that the brakes will fade. The appearently best but not most expensive solution is a Movit brake kit (Porsche brakes).
If you really want to get the most out of it, get competition suspension fitted. This will set you back £2200 to 2500 though.
I would say get the following:
- air intake (you can fit this yourself) £150
- exhaust £700 for a good one
- ECU £1500
- Brakes Movit front and rear a little under £3000
- Suspension £2200
You will find that the brakes will fade. The appearently best but not most expensive solution is a Movit brake kit (Porsche brakes).
If you really want to get the most out of it, get competition suspension fitted. This will set you back £2200 to 2500 though.
I would say get the following:
- air intake (you can fit this yourself) £150
- exhaust £700 for a good one
- ECU £1500
- Brakes Movit front and rear a little under £3000
- Suspension £2200
#4
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Forgot to say that if you fit brakes, you can sell yours on here, a lot of people have crap brakes and yours would already be an improvement. The newer they are, the better. No one want old brakes.
#7
Gaz,
If i were you I would keep the car as it is initially, get used to it and just enjoy it.
Then if and when the modifying bug does start go for something like a Downpipe initially. There is NO point spending thousands modifying your car if your happy with it the way it is.
Ian
If i were you I would keep the car as it is initially, get used to it and just enjoy it.
Then if and when the modifying bug does start go for something like a Downpipe initially. There is NO point spending thousands modifying your car if your happy with it the way it is.
Ian
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#8
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Ian
He said he wants to mod it. Why would you question that? Let him deicide for himself.
That's just plain ridiculous, a scooby owner telling another scooby owner, on scoobynet, not to mod his P1!! LOL
He said he wants to mod it. Why would you question that? Let him deicide for himself.
That's just plain ridiculous, a scooby owner telling another scooby owner, on scoobynet, not to mod his P1!! LOL
#10
£3000 for brakes
i would also think that before you think about mods you should get to know the car as it is. The brakes i would definatelty upgrade but at 3000 . Im not saying dont upgrade it but why not finb the faults youself and then mod rather than going full all out?
Paul
i would also think that before you think about mods you should get to know the car as it is. The brakes i would definatelty upgrade but at 3000 . Im not saying dont upgrade it but why not finb the faults youself and then mod rather than going full all out?
Paul
#12
I should have taken this advice years ago. Since I tried it I have saved lots of money.
Buy an extra set of track slicks with light racing rims, a racing harness and uprated track brake pads for the track.
Book yourself some track time and get a professional driver to show you what is the limit of the P1 on the track and start practicing. First of all the limits are terrifying and you'll realise its not the equipment its me thats not fast enough. Then the real challange begins, I call it TAMING OF THE SCOOBY
Buy an extra set of track slicks with light racing rims, a racing harness and uprated track brake pads for the track.
Book yourself some track time and get a professional driver to show you what is the limit of the P1 on the track and start practicing. First of all the limits are terrifying and you'll realise its not the equipment its me thats not fast enough. Then the real challange begins, I call it TAMING OF THE SCOOBY
#13
I've had my P1 for around 2 years now and IMHO, brakes first. The standard ones are crap. Don't bother with Movits - too expensive and fiddly to fit. AP 6 pots circa £1500 or if you're going to try to keep the warranty, the Alcons (but put brake cooling hoses from spoiler to back of discs- Sti part)with Ferodo DS2500 pads (DS 3000 for track), braided hoses and race fluid.
Next upgrade the driver- a day with Don Palmer at Bruntingthorpe should do it - he lets you show him your limit, then takes you apart and shows you a much much higher limit that you weren't aware of. I used to rally at the end of the 70's, so consider myself reasonably quick and he made a massive difference. It's about 300 quid, so same as a Backbox but will make a bigger difference than anything else.
Then do the exhaust bit by bit, Downpipe makes the biggest difference with ITG filter, centre section not such a big impact but helps the sound,Standard Sti back box is whisper mode Prodrive P1 box pretty good but not as loud as the aftermarket ones ( I run a full scoobysport exhaust with ITG on mine).
That's all you need really until you want to go mental money ecu's etc.
Don't fit race harness unless it's properly mounted ie from a roll cage or with proper mounts at parcel shelf height, unless you fit fixed back race seats, as it can cause the ordinary seats to collapse in the event of an off. I have a removable roll cage which I fit when I'm playing which has two race harnesses attached.
Slicks etc are good fun (latest count in my garage is 2 full sets of 17" slicks, 2 full sets of Pzeros, S02's/Toyos on the road)but difficult to get hold of in 17 or 18 inch sizes,put huge stresses on the car, and are not necessary to have fun- just get a set of spare alloys and put the road tyres that you will probably **** with Don Palmer on there and use them on track. The standard fit P zeros are OK in the dry (until they get really hot - 4-5 laps of a track) but hopeless in the wet, so are great sideways fun on wet track days when they are down to around 1-2mm.
Have fun
Next upgrade the driver- a day with Don Palmer at Bruntingthorpe should do it - he lets you show him your limit, then takes you apart and shows you a much much higher limit that you weren't aware of. I used to rally at the end of the 70's, so consider myself reasonably quick and he made a massive difference. It's about 300 quid, so same as a Backbox but will make a bigger difference than anything else.
Then do the exhaust bit by bit, Downpipe makes the biggest difference with ITG filter, centre section not such a big impact but helps the sound,Standard Sti back box is whisper mode Prodrive P1 box pretty good but not as loud as the aftermarket ones ( I run a full scoobysport exhaust with ITG on mine).
That's all you need really until you want to go mental money ecu's etc.
Don't fit race harness unless it's properly mounted ie from a roll cage or with proper mounts at parcel shelf height, unless you fit fixed back race seats, as it can cause the ordinary seats to collapse in the event of an off. I have a removable roll cage which I fit when I'm playing which has two race harnesses attached.
Slicks etc are good fun (latest count in my garage is 2 full sets of 17" slicks, 2 full sets of Pzeros, S02's/Toyos on the road)but difficult to get hold of in 17 or 18 inch sizes,put huge stresses on the car, and are not necessary to have fun- just get a set of spare alloys and put the road tyres that you will probably **** with Don Palmer on there and use them on track. The standard fit P zeros are OK in the dry (until they get really hot - 4-5 laps of a track) but hopeless in the wet, so are great sideways fun on wet track days when they are down to around 1-2mm.
Have fun
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Personally I would do this:
1) Full de-cat exhaust (IMHO 3" Scoobysport downpipe and HKS Hiper)
2) Air inductor (K&N/RamPod if you don't want a FMIC or other brand if you do)
3) Programmable ECU (Link/GEMS/MoTeC/etc)
4) Hybrid turbo (probably a modified VF23)
5) FMIC (Front mounted intercooler)
6) Water Injection
7) Engine rebuild to make it stronger!!
[Edited by Andy Tang - 8/18/2002 1:44:19 PM]
1) Full de-cat exhaust (IMHO 3" Scoobysport downpipe and HKS Hiper)
2) Air inductor (K&N/RamPod if you don't want a FMIC or other brand if you do)
3) Programmable ECU (Link/GEMS/MoTeC/etc)
4) Hybrid turbo (probably a modified VF23)
5) FMIC (Front mounted intercooler)
6) Water Injection
7) Engine rebuild to make it stronger!!
[Edited by Andy Tang - 8/18/2002 1:44:19 PM]
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Those are just performance, other mods to consider:
1) Front brakes (IMHO AP Racing)
2) Uprated pads and disks for the rear
3) Bigger wheels/decent tyres
4) Solid drop links all round (can't remember which ones the P1 has already)
5) Upper front and rear strut braces
6) Uprated suspension
6) Powerstation Bump Steer modification
7) Quickshift mechanism
8) Lower front strut brace
1) Front brakes (IMHO AP Racing)
2) Uprated pads and disks for the rear
3) Bigger wheels/decent tyres
4) Solid drop links all round (can't remember which ones the P1 has already)
5) Upper front and rear strut braces
6) Uprated suspension
6) Powerstation Bump Steer modification
7) Quickshift mechanism
8) Lower front strut brace
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I guess you should be monitoring your engine:
1) Turbo boost pressure gauge
2) Oil temperature gauge
3) Oil pressure gauge
4) EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge
5) Knocklink (check the engine isn't detting)
6) Lamdalink (check the air/fuel ratio)
1) Turbo boost pressure gauge
2) Oil temperature gauge
3) Oil pressure gauge
4) EGT (exhaust gas temperature) gauge
5) Knocklink (check the engine isn't detting)
6) Lamdalink (check the air/fuel ratio)
#18
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Less of a modification, but more advice:
1) Use Optimax/Super unleaded fuel
2) Use octane booster!
3) Service the car regularly
4) If you drive it hard, change the oil and filter every 3000 miles or so.
5) Only use genuine Subaru oil filters
6) Only use good quality oil (Castrol RS 10/60w or Mobil 1 Motorsport - Not the normal one!!!!)
7) Get your geometery checked!! Can lead to uneven tyre wear, and eat up your tyres *very* quickly!
1) Use Optimax/Super unleaded fuel
2) Use octane booster!
3) Service the car regularly
4) If you drive it hard, change the oil and filter every 3000 miles or so.
5) Only use genuine Subaru oil filters
6) Only use good quality oil (Castrol RS 10/60w or Mobil 1 Motorsport - Not the normal one!!!!)
7) Get your geometery checked!! Can lead to uneven tyre wear, and eat up your tyres *very* quickly!
#19
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I might have got the price wrong for the Movit brake kit converting it from EUROS. It's a little under 4000 EUR, so that's probably around 2600GBP.
For that money, you get front and rear brake discs, calipers, pads and mounting bracket etc.
The discs are two piece discs and the calipers lightweight monobloc ones. This set up is technologically superiour to AP brakes.
It is very important that you get the rear brakes to keep the brake balance.
Anybody can fit a fronbt AP 6 pot kit. But not everybody can get his brake setup right.
For that money, you get front and rear brake discs, calipers, pads and mounting bracket etc.
The discs are two piece discs and the calipers lightweight monobloc ones. This set up is technologically superiour to AP brakes.
It is very important that you get the rear brakes to keep the brake balance.
Anybody can fit a fronbt AP 6 pot kit. But not everybody can get his brake setup right.
#21
wow you guys can spend money!
The exhaust option sounds good as a 1st. m8 had a scoob back box & nice sound! what kinda power upage with a full system? are there better/cheaper systems than a scoobysport?
The air filter induction kit sounds good & cheap too.......K&N the best?
Brakes....i put godspeed on the front of my MY99 & they are great & cheap as keep the same calipers. are there, better, similar priced stufff to godspeed........will the alcons fit on 17s which have toyo proxes on BTW
FATBOY. ive been with don palmer twice & my recent pass with john lyon at HPC so im pretty nifty u r right, it is the biggest improvement you can make........i.e yourself
Keep it comin fellaz
GK
The exhaust option sounds good as a 1st. m8 had a scoob back box & nice sound! what kinda power upage with a full system? are there better/cheaper systems than a scoobysport?
The air filter induction kit sounds good & cheap too.......K&N the best?
Brakes....i put godspeed on the front of my MY99 & they are great & cheap as keep the same calipers. are there, better, similar priced stufff to godspeed........will the alcons fit on 17s which have toyo proxes on BTW
FATBOY. ive been with don palmer twice & my recent pass with john lyon at HPC so im pretty nifty u r right, it is the biggest improvement you can make........i.e yourself
Keep it comin fellaz
GK
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Claudius,
I thought you had an Evo? Do you have or have had an Impreza, with the Movit brakes? More popular in Europe than the UK.
Personally I had the AP Racing 6-pots and yes there is too much front bias, although I found by uprating the rears with MRT disks and Ferodo DS2000 pads, the balance was much better.
I thought you had an Evo? Do you have or have had an Impreza, with the Movit brakes? More popular in Europe than the UK.
Personally I had the AP Racing 6-pots and yes there is too much front bias, although I found by uprating the rears with MRT disks and Ferodo DS2000 pads, the balance was much better.
#23
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I thought you had an Evo? Do you have or have had an Impreza, with the Movit brakes?
More popular in Europe than the UK.
Personally I had the AP Racing 6-pots and yes there is too much front bias
I found by uprating the rears with MRT disks and Ferodo DS2000 pads, the balance was much better.
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are there better/cheaper systems than a scoobysport?
are there, better, similar priced stufff to godspeed
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I'm giving a real world example, where the solution I gave was what I did and solved the problem. With the standard rear components the rear end was light under heavy high speed braking. The uprated pads (and they are uprated compared to standard) with the MRT disks, gave a much better balance under the same braking conditions.
You seem to be giving out advice on a car you don't own or have tuned. So obviously you must be right!
You seem to be giving out advice on a car you don't own or have tuned. So obviously you must be right!
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