WR Blue, new to detailing
#1
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WR Blue, new to detailing
hello. my 2 week old wrx300 is coverd in ****. grit mud brake dust you name it. when i get some spare time im going to give her a good clean. in the past i have washed my cars with bucket of hot water, halfrauds shampoo in the water, and a large yellow sponge (you know). after this the car drys with dirty water marks and i usually leather them off. if i then had the time i would use colourfast and a wax pad to cover the whole car which generally took ages as it would dry on and leave white marks.
Im basically looking for the best technique to wash my motor. also for wr blue whats the best polish?
i have been looking on the net at products and they are baffeling me.
any helps a big help
Im basically looking for the best technique to wash my motor. also for wr blue whats the best polish?
i have been looking on the net at products and they are baffeling me.
any helps a big help
#2
Give Rich an e-mail at polishedbliss.co.uk, he's a great help and sell some top products. He will also advise you on products that he doesn't sell if he thinks thats what you need.
Have a read on his car care guides.
My view on what you need though is as follows (taking into account it will all be done by hand):
1: Wash with a good car shampoo (meguiars etc.) using a wash mitt rather than a sponge (meguiars again) ps. only use your sponge for under arches etc not on your paintwork, they inflict more light swirl marks (can be seen in direct sun) than anything else. Then dry using a waffle weave drying towel, much more caring on your paint than a leather.
2. Clay your car (removes tiny inground contaminants), even on new cars this makes a massive difference in surface feel and cleanliness of the paint. Lots of make available and pretty easy to use. (only need to do this about 3 times a year). The paint will be really smooth after this and make applying polishes much easier.
3. Re wash if you have just clayed, but skip otherwise.
4. Polish, not to confused with waxing a car. Polish is making the surface really smooth ready for a wax or sealent. Many good polishes out there but if you want a good allrounder try Klass all-in-one. Others include Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze, Poorboys Pro polish and even Autoglym Super resin.
5. Wax/Sealent, generally sealents last longer than waxes but waxes add more depth so for waxes try Nattys paste wax Blue and for sealent try Poorboys EXP. You can use EXP then go over with Nattys blue for the best of both worlds.
There are many other items you will need including wax applicators and a good supply of microfibre clothes (use the best you can afford). Then there are treatments for trim, tyres, wheels etc. again Poorboys, Meguiars range is very good but Autoglym also is for these items and its readily available.
To stop finger prints and other water marks etc get some Clearkote Quikshine, its a quick detailer which you just spray on and wipe off - no buffing and produces that just detailed look in a few minutes. Can be used on all exterior surfaces.
Hope this helps a bit.
Have a read on his car care guides.
My view on what you need though is as follows (taking into account it will all be done by hand):
1: Wash with a good car shampoo (meguiars etc.) using a wash mitt rather than a sponge (meguiars again) ps. only use your sponge for under arches etc not on your paintwork, they inflict more light swirl marks (can be seen in direct sun) than anything else. Then dry using a waffle weave drying towel, much more caring on your paint than a leather.
2. Clay your car (removes tiny inground contaminants), even on new cars this makes a massive difference in surface feel and cleanliness of the paint. Lots of make available and pretty easy to use. (only need to do this about 3 times a year). The paint will be really smooth after this and make applying polishes much easier.
3. Re wash if you have just clayed, but skip otherwise.
4. Polish, not to confused with waxing a car. Polish is making the surface really smooth ready for a wax or sealent. Many good polishes out there but if you want a good allrounder try Klass all-in-one. Others include Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze, Poorboys Pro polish and even Autoglym Super resin.
5. Wax/Sealent, generally sealents last longer than waxes but waxes add more depth so for waxes try Nattys paste wax Blue and for sealent try Poorboys EXP. You can use EXP then go over with Nattys blue for the best of both worlds.
There are many other items you will need including wax applicators and a good supply of microfibre clothes (use the best you can afford). Then there are treatments for trim, tyres, wheels etc. again Poorboys, Meguiars range is very good but Autoglym also is for these items and its readily available.
To stop finger prints and other water marks etc get some Clearkote Quikshine, its a quick detailer which you just spray on and wipe off - no buffing and produces that just detailed look in a few minutes. Can be used on all exterior surfaces.
Hope this helps a bit.
#5
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All good advice above. I've chipped in on a similar question before... see the link below. I'll be doing JohnS's car on the 25th (if the weather ever gets any better), and I'll be trying out a few combinations - full details and piccies will be posted on here afterwards. For shiny and reflective I think the Menzerna range is the way to go, and for wet and glossy looking the Clearkote Range is hard to beat. Stay tuned!
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=495509
http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=495509
#7
Originally Posted by Rasher
just recieved my stuff Rich thanks very much , will see what the weather is like tomorrow and have a bash
mines on it's way too !
loads of goodies from rich, lets hope they are as good as they say on the tin
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