whats this ???
It is adjusted by the tiny screw in the top (and top of your picture). Wind out for more, in for less. Got a boost gauge to see the difference? Not sure what it attaches to though. Maybe someone else can help there?
Tim
Tim
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isnt it just one of the ones that you 'T' into the hose from the boost solenoid to the actuator. plug in the serated part, and then bleed to atmos through the nozzle?
mate used to have one on a nissan cherry turbo (ahem) yrs ago, think thats how it worked
who manufactures it, any markings?
ian
mate used to have one on a nissan cherry turbo (ahem) yrs ago, think thats how it worked

who manufactures it, any markings?
ian
HI your valve came from a superchips conversion all you do is t -it into tube from turbo to boost solenoid, actuater pipe and adjust it with small screw on top, as you dont have chip you will eventually hit boost limit and car will start to cut out you then turn srew back way slightly thus useing the perfect boost pressure without cutting out
ssubaru
ssubaru
If you have the Superchip already you do not need it, but you may want to consider my circuit using an op amp, zener and variable resistor (that is it) which raises your fuel cut instead of your superchip which abolishes it - you can find it easier by searching on I-club I can't remember the link on here without search. The zener diode goes reverse biased between the MAP sensor signal line and ground.
The barbed hose attachment at the bottom is teed off the hose that goes from the T-piece near the turbo outlet to the wastegate soleonid in the wing. It is a bleed valve - you can also use it in multiple other configurations.
The smoother area on the left looks to be the adjuster. The white markings show the standard pneumatic symbol for an adjustable bleed valve. You would need to start with it closed and gradually crack it open - a small way has a big effect.
You need a boost gauge, and some way to check fuelling and knock.
You can build the "chip" using a 6p zener diode from Maplin or spend £5 and only raise the fuel cut, or if you are no good at electronics an HKS FCD will raise it for you.
Then have fun blowing up your car.
Seriously though, if you don't know what you are doing this is a very cheap way to do just that. It is simple and cheap, but the setup and monitoring needs are rather more involved.
[Edited by john banks - 5/9/2002 7:58:03 PM]
The smoother area on the left looks to be the adjuster. The white markings show the standard pneumatic symbol for an adjustable bleed valve. You would need to start with it closed and gradually crack it open - a small way has a big effect.
You need a boost gauge, and some way to check fuelling and knock.
You can build the "chip" using a 6p zener diode from Maplin or spend £5 and only raise the fuel cut, or if you are no good at electronics an HKS FCD will raise it for you.
Then have fun blowing up your car.
Seriously though, if you don't know what you are doing this is a very cheap way to do just that. It is simple and cheap, but the setup and monitoring needs are rather more involved.
[Edited by john banks - 5/9/2002 7:58:03 PM]




