If I am going to run my car at about 18psi shoud I get one of these fitted? They look stunning and offer mapping based on rpm etc. Any thoughts, anybody fitted one?

 

Not fitted one, but i do know that they are highly recommended(even more so with the boost controller also, which gives you high boost in the mid range and lower boost further up the rev range).However, they are not the easiest of things to set up, RC Developments been the specialists.

Rich.

 

The Super AFC alters the MAF signal based on RPM with a low-high throttle position and interpolation between. It does not alter ignition timing as far as anyone seems to be able to determine unless changing MAF voltage does this, which most think not. Apparently leaning out 1 AFR point at the top end can liberate over 15 BHP on some cars. But not for the faint hearted.

I am considering making one. You can make a simple analogue one, which could detect say over 3500 RPM and 80% throttle and then put a gain of (say) 0.95 on the MAF signal under these conditions. You need a frequency to voltage converter attached to the crank or cam position sensor to read RPM and compare that to your (say) 3500RPM value. Then a comparator to compare throttle position (say) over 4V. If both these conditions are true you trigger the adjustable gain of (say) 0.95 initially on the op amp and you are sorted.

Theoretically you might get more power down to 5-5.5% CO if you can control det and temps, but others say 1% CO / 1000RPM. Whatever, most Scoobies at 18 PSI on the standard ECU seem to run pig rich if the injectors are not maxxed out. Mine runs about 10% CO, so I have a Knocklink on order before I try leaning it to say 8% CO. I'll still leave it fairly rich to help control temps, but >10% seems a joke, and I have to use wheel cleaner on my pea shooter Prodrive exhaust to clean it

Note also that tuning by narrowband lambda sensor is not terribly accurate, but some mappers say it works fine.

 

DP motorsport, who are just down the road sell them. I gave them a ring and they told me to look in FAST CAR this month. There is a review of the Apex-i and lots of other ECU tuning goodies.

 

I hope you get a quality review out of "Fast Car"

 

point taken:P

 

John Banks *buys*, not *builds*, Knocklink Shock-Horror, lol!

John - while the sensor heats up quickly it will always underead (better than overeading!) and you soon get used to seeing what's going on. It's almost more important to see the patterns than absolute values - mine will typically drop 1 led after extended heat.

Richard

 

It is the sensor and calibration of the K/Link that make it easier to buy than make, but MRT shop seem unhappy to supply me and point me to UK distributors, but I am not keen to pay at 65% mark up to get one in the UK. Importing costs yes, but the MRT shop price already has their mark up?