Hi All,
I sold my 4x4 Cosworth & bought an R-reg Sti import last week, under the bonnet baffles me slightly, as it's completely different to the Cozzi/Rs Turbo.
So far I've bought a stainless (waiting for decat) some 18" compomotives, cusco coilovers, a hks mushroom filter & some body mods so far.
I'm looking to set this up for the odd track day so need some sound advice from people in the know.
Being used to Fords could somebody find the time to enlighten me about Bovs etc etc

Cheers

Eggsy (We've all got to start somewhere!!)

 

first thing decat down pipe u notice such a diff just with that 1 mod

 

As its an import Sti its going to have a good power output to start off with. Get all your new engine bits fitted and then have a decent re-map. With regards to BOVS, its a personal choice. A lot of people on here don't like them but, its your car. I had a sard BOV on my Veilside WRX which was very noisy, (to the point of scaring people as you drove along)
My Ra, (see my car section) kicked out about 360bhp so was useable as an everyday car but was also brilliant on the track. All Scoobys are fun so just enjoy it. All the best, Mike

 

What are you hoping for out of it? Personally at the min I'd probley send the filter back and get a panel or are you going for a front mount cooler? Classics are very problematic when it comes to air filters!! Definatly go for a front decat as stated above start looking at mapping there are some very good people on here.

 

Sorry to put a dampener on here, but if yours is a ver 3 sti then you cannot have the std ecu mapped, you'll need an aftermarket ECU to make best advantage of the mods your planning on making. if you look under the passenger footwell carpet there will be a kick shield remove that and under it will be your ecu, do a search on here fore the ecu number and it will confirm if its a mappable one or not, failing that is shell optimax as they will expect 100 ron fuel on that model year.

 

Version 3 and 4 STI's (MY97/MY98 cars) need aftermarket ecu's fitting, easiest way is to check the model codes but one is pre face lift (rubber gator around the gear lever) and the other is leather around and momo steering wheel (dash is also different).
It also depends where you want to take the car to mod wise, they are good for around the 350bhp area but due to weak rods pushing above this is not advisable (and normally terminal for the engine/gearbox/clutch etc).

These also only run on super unleaded and i would seriously recommend getting a KS3 knock analyser to see if the car is detting.

Tony

 

Hi Lads & thanks for the quick reply's, TBH I'm pretty sure its the later version as it has the 3 cubbys in the dash & the momo & leather gear surround & the facelift.
THE ECU has a blue sticker on it saying 75 then 2 lots of numbers - as follows

22611 ae360
a18-100 d66

Im looking for a relaible 320ish bhp with no detination as my cosworth was 400bhp with launch @ anti-lag

PS Tony whats a KS3 knock analyser

 

Couple of pointers, as been down this route over the last 9 months.

Get an oil cooler- they dont cool enough on a track.
If it has standard 2 pot brakes you will already know how pants they are- get Brembo's or similar.
I use a front mount ic to keep intake temps right down, which is what will make it go pop at sensible power levels.
And if you do that you will need an ECU and remap- I have a 98 and fitted a Simtek from JGM, who did a great job mapping it.

Just my experience mate. I have also caged mine (Safety Device 6 point from Scoobyclinic is pretty cost effective at about 600), and fitted seats and harness's, as well as suspension mods, but think the engine mods above will keep things nice and safe, with future potential.

 

(cleared up a couple of posts.... there was some spam in here and a couple of replies hanging in the wind after it had been cleared out)

 

You should be able to see upto 320bhp (your VF23(or 24) turbo, OEM TMIC and 440cc injectors should be good for it ) - if you get mapped on the following supp. mods.:-

* Decat d/p + full system (you already have, waiting to go on)
* Walbro 255l/h fuel pump
* NGK PFR7B plugs
* Green/K&N/Apexi, or fresh OEM paper, panel filter - to go in the OEM airbox (sell the HKS mush')
* Fresh fuel filter

* Unfortunately, as has already been said, you need either a Apexi Power FC or Simtek mappable ECU as your v.3 one isn't mappable. This is the single most expensive bit of harware in the list. 2nd hand PFC (check here or ebay) is prob gonna be the cheapest, but they are no longer the bargains they once were about 18mths ago...

 

Is it definatly Sti V3 on an R-reg?? Would another prodrive/sti ecu fit of the same year, or do all the sensors etc different?? This is where im starting to get lost! lol Fords where so simple!!
Could anybody please enlighten me on the ecu codes???

 

Does your engine have a coil pack centrally mounted on the inlet manifold, with HT leads defo going to the plugs in the heads (way down in the bay, either side of the block).

...Or just post some photos up of your interior, engine and VIN plate....

ECU is under a metal kickplate under the carpet in the passenger footwell. When you remove the k/p, the ECU casing's 2-character code sticker will be staring you in the face...

 

R reg (1 Aug 97 to 31 July 98) should be a v.4! But you just might have a very late v.3 if built in the very last month of MY1997 production (up til 31 Aug 1997) - check your V5's "date of production" entry. But the odds are in favour - at a healthy 11:1 on lol - that you do indeed have a v.4!

If you defo have the facelift interior with the binnacle's water/fuel gauges next to each other on the left, then yes, defo a v.4!

Regardless, v.3 OR v.4 - they are the same as far as the ECU situation is concerned, so you'd still need a mappable ECU. Prodrive's ECU is just a re-reprogramed OEM ECU - but it's still ultimtely unmappable by a third party i.e. it's not a EPROM style board/chip, AFAIK.

If it IS mappable, then hardly anyone offers a widely-known commercial (and affordable) solution for it... yet! ESL were working on a replacement daughterboard for the MY97/98 JECS ECU, but the way I've understood it is that it's just a passing interest for them, where they don't forsee making a worthwhile (any?) profit from it. So their work on a solution is best decribed as "work in progress..."

 

Hi & thanks again for the help - the 2 letter number on the ECU is definatly 75.
Pics are to follow - Thanks Eggsy

 

Definitely a V4 Sti - so you will need a replacement ECU. I'd go for a Simtek if you can stretch to it. The Power FC is a great piece of kit too, but the Simtek allows you to ditch the Air Flow Sensor (MAF), which isn't as weak on your year of car as it is on the 99-00 cars, it would still be better to delete it IMHO.

 

Yep as above, without doubt you have a MY98 Subaru Impreza WRX STi Version IV (4) Sedan lol

Two main selling points of Simtek over PFC:-

1) MAFless (as said above)

2) Dual switchable bespoke maps e.g. you could have a deliberately capped low-boost/lean-fuel 'economy map' on 95 or 97 RON; and a full-on max-boost 'max power map' on V-Power 99 RON (or V-Power + meths), for example.

 

The simtek also fits into the ECU case without the need for a hand controller etc, so is a little more subtle.

Cant comment on the PFC, but when I looked last year price wise not between the two, and very pleased with the Simtek.

 

Either or I reckon guys, tbh I'd be very happy with a reliable 300bhp (trust me to buy the V3/4) I suppose I'd best be putting an ad in wanted then?? lol
Who is good for mapping, tbh should they not just be able to load up previous maps onto the ECU to the spec of the engine as they all seem to be the decat etc etc, what's the general costing for this do you's think?? And what do you think a decent 2nd hand ECU would cost??
And what sort of difference would a TD05 make?? (I'll have to learn more about the turbos etc, I'm used to the T3/34/4)
Would you lads mind elaberating on the turbo side of things - as your doing a good job so far!! lol

Oh lads, the car has a very slight knock when cold, but is fine when warm, is this an early sign of the dreaded 3rd piston I hear so much about???

 

defo run only on super unleaded preff v power as jap cars are set to run on 100 ron , also as said if your gona use on a track get some good oil in it millers 10-50 fully synth and fit an oil cooler as temps can get quite high

as for mapping top people are , andy forest , jolly green monster , scooby clinic , stick with these and you wont go wrong

as for slight knocking when cold could be piston slap i think can be a common prob on your model

get some gauges fitted mate oil press and oil temp

 

eggsy, your best bet is sourcing a 2nd hand PFC+Commander then getting the travelling mapper, JGM, to fit and map it for you for £250+VAT (plus any fuel costs he may charge you). Just make sure you stay off boost between fitting the decat d/p and getting the map done. As said, Simon's one of the best (I speak as one of his customers).

The 340bhp TD05H 16g is tougher than your VF23(or 24) but you'd be unlikely to get it beyond 320bhp anyway, because of the TMIC and 440cc injectors (possible though - if lucky). Plus you'd have to chop off its top entry snorkel inlet to make it fit your 'under-the-inlet-manifold' turbo intake pipe, etc. All in all, it wouldn't be worth the hassle/extra expense at this stage of tune.

The knock you talk of is normal on the STi v.3>on. They are fitted with forged pistons which, by their nature, expand when up to normal operating temp i.e. you should find the noise disappears when up to temp. This is why they knock when cold - they're deliberately manufactured slightly undersized (to allow them to expand to the cylinder bores when hot), so they 'hit' against the sides of the cyl walls. This is a phenomenon refered to as 'piston slap'.

I've had my v.1 WRX rebuilt with STi v.3/4 pistons (the same ones as what are in your engine) and really noticed the PS! By comaparison, the original non-forged WRX pistons that were in it before, were quiet as a mouse when engine was cold.

 

Thanks again lads the knowledge is gratefully recieved,

Tbh my S1 RS Cab has a 1.9 tall block turbo & sorts of mods (Auto Specialists - home) & thats a bit has its rattles on start up, but thats just no oil the tappets.

& yeh the subaru's fine when she's warmed up a bit, just wanted to confirm I wasn't into a rebuild after only 2wks of ownership! lol

Link for the Cosworth I've just sold if anybodys interested (anti-lag & launch 400bhp)??
YouTube - Eggsy's Cozzi with Anti-Lag

 

lol, yeah Ford cylinder heads of the 80's/early 90's made a dreadful racket until the oil pressure was right up. You really could get those valves to bounce otherwise!

Must say, got a bit of soft spot for the Sapphire Cosworth in the white, as well as - obviously! - a S1 Escort RS Turbo in white! (not so keen on the cab though). Is your Cossie a 2WD (can't see the "4x4" badge, so I assume it is? Even so, the 4x4 has a heavily biased fixed torque split of 40:60 to the rear, doesn't it?

 

Yeh thats right Joz, 60r/40f split on the 4x4 saph, not long sold her (J-plate 4x4) & bought the V4/ins & some mods for the money, it was quiet well specced aswell, but the scooby's 7yrs newer & a lot more lighter & agile to drive imo.

Any idea of the split on the V4's???

Also what boost pressure should the scooby be running???

Cheers bud

Eggsy

 

* The regular STi v.3-6 (i.e without the DCCD box/rear diff like the leightweight STi Type RA / 2-dr Type R have), has a straight-forward 50:50 steady-state split, so a lot more predictable/forgiving than your Cossie.

It has a normal open diff up front; viscous coupling in the centre; and another VC at the rear.

So if any front wheel/s loses grip then torque is sent rearwards and the rear wheels drive you forward with more torque, with anything between 50-100% shared between them. Plus of course, because there's a VC at the rear axle, then if one rear wheel loses grip, the other one gets the torque (anything between 25-100%), so gets the drive.

All in all, a pretty effective, straightforward and cheap set-up. The two VCs are cheap to produce as there's bugger all to them, plus a cheap open diff up front.

* Not sure exactly the boost pressure figure, but think it's anything between 1.0-1.1bar (14.5-16psi).

 

7S not 75.. whcih is a v4 sti as has been said..

nice car

Simon

 

Yeah, love STi v.3-6's in white, esp the regular STi v.5...

 

Phormula - Engine Knock, Detonation and Pre-Ignition Detection and Monitoring Systems

Tony

 

dastek get good results with their unichip piggy bank ecu. Ive had one on my classic for 2 years now. Might be a cheaper option then the other systems mentioned. If your budget stretches to it then a proper standalone unit is the way to go though.

 

been having a discussion with a so called expert on here(uk or import thread)i have been told cant re-map my 97 ecu but this says you can....anymore info?

 

the unichip is a piggyback ecu.. it doesn't remap the original ecu it tricks it by altering what it sees etc.. the greddy emanage does the same and works well on cars where there is no option (done starlet turbos, GTO's for example) but when there is an after market ecu available it is the much better route.

Cheapest option is Apexi Powerfc secondhand and have it fitted and mapped.

Simon