I recently replaced the maf in my turbo 2000, I have only driven the car aprox 400 miles and the maf has gone again!why is this? Also for quickness what is the part no. I require

Thanks

 

Are you running with an induction kit? They don't do the MAF's any favours.

 

Brand new maf or second hand one? Also as said, induction kits if not fitted right will kill them very quickly due to vibration, or just kill them quicker if fitted correctly over the standard airbox setup.
If you don't have an induction kit, do you use a dry or oiled panel filter as the oiled ones are not good either

Tony

 

22794AA010 for the part. As above induction kits and heavily oiled filters (which shed said oil) don't do them any favours. Dumpvalves that are too stiff can knacker them too.

All that said, how do you know it's "gone"? Have you got a CEL? Misbehaving engine? Tell us more about the symptoms and circumstances and it'll be easier for us to help you understand why this has happened.

 

i have a blitz induction kit, and a turbosmart dumpvalve set on quite a hard setting...

when i press the accelerator the car stuters and tries to die,its worse when cold, i hookd it up to the subaru diagnostic computes as soon as it happend and it said code 23 maf, i also need a new lambda which is ordered, could the lambda be anthing to do with it? how should i fix my induction kit down to prevent it from vibrating of the body?

thanks

 

im getting a problem with my maf

Plugged in, engine choking badly, idles between 500-2000 eratic, stalls, sometimes it responses to gas pedal.

Not Plugged in, engine choking (sounds like a chopper bike), smell of petrol, idles 1500, ok to drive but limited to 25mph, and is bit kangrooly, bouncy.

No error codes.

Ive fitted 2 new mafs all have the same problem.

 

Right. That's not a good start. Do you have the original parts to put back on the car?

Did you drive it while connected to the computer? If you did, did you check to see what the mass airflow sensor was actually reading as you opened the throttle? Did you also check whether the throttle position sensor responded normally to pressing the accelerator? Did whoever did the diagnostic run a proper analysis of the car, in other words, or did you simply see the code 23, decide the MAF must be screwed, and disconnect the computer?

It makes things more confusing, yes. Again if a proper datalog/diagnostic has been done on the car you'd know for certain what was going on. As things stand I can't help but wonder whether there's another explanation for the symptoms you're seeing, 400 miles is a ridiculously quick death even for the 99-00 airflow sensor.

The problem is that it's not just body-induced vibration that can cause problems. The induction kit changes the airflow too, which can cause measurement issues as well as ultimately damage the sensor.

If you look at the standard airbox you'll see that it's decoupled from the body with rubber grommets. Ideally your induction kit should follow a similar principle but even that might not fix the problem - if, indeed, this is the root cause. As mentioned above it might be your dumpvalve, might, concievably, not be the MAF at all.

Incidentally, if you reset the ECU and drive the car, do you immediately get the 23 error back?

 

If you've tried two confirmed new sensors and the problem doesn't get better, this suggests that your problem is actually elsewhere - a possible wiring fault in the airflow sensor loom, for instance. As with Kinnon, have you had the opportunity to diagnose or datalog the ECU so you can see what's actually going on?

 

ive checked it for codes non come up once its connected.

 

Can you get to or borrow some diagnostic equipment? You want to know what the airflow sensor voltage is reading as the engine is running.

 

I think ill get my m8 to check it the mafs are workin with a multi meter,

if i bought a odb2 would that tell me. about the sensor volt? what do i need to buy to check this airflow sensor.

 

No unfortunatly these things where on the car when i bought it.

No i plugd the computer in myself, i am not very mechanicly minded, it came up code 23, when i cleared it it did not come up again but the engine continued misbehaving, as i sad it does need an oxygen sensor- could be linked? i wouldnt even no what readings to expect from the maf or throttle position sensor.

I see well i will adjust the dumpvalve to a softer setting, do you recomend getting a standard airbox? would my car need re-mapped after fitting? where would i get one?

Thanks for all the information!