Hi, I'm looking to get a charge temp sensor, and wondered if the blank on the inlet, to the right of the t/b in this pic would be a good place to tap it in? Saves drilling etc, and i can leave it alone when i go fmic.


Thanks,Mit

 

i think i read on here, if you put the sensor into the inlet it can asorb the heat from it.

i thought about putting it where the pcv valve goes if running the breathers to catch can mod

 

Ah, i see what you mean. I guess the t/b pipe is a cooler point to mount it.

 

Mine

 

You don't really want the sensor smack in the air flow, as that will reduce the reading !

A low flow zone would be better, like a corner of the intercooler, passenger side rear maybe, well away from the hot turbo and exhaust.

IMHO

dunx

 

well,its a good enough reading, easy enough to install and ives a good idea of air temp into the throttle body, i dont calculate anything from it so it doesnt matter if its 1-5 degrees different etc,just a good idea if i see a reading of 65 etc i know to back off

 

That's where I put the sensor on mine but put the sensor adaptor in the silicon tube and the sensor itself into that, all sealed with some special silicon tape I got from Viper Performance.
In the warm weather at the mo. I'm seeing 26-28c steady driving, off boost. Only recently installed, so no real idea of what it'll hit while giving it a bit of stick!

JohnD

 

Where did you get yours from? i`ve been looking for one but cant really find anything decent.

Andy

 

The sensor MUST be in direct path of the air flow and away from the influence of other heat inputs.
Rigs install is pretty well perfect.

 

Got mine through a group buy on here a few months ago. It was arranged by Harvey Smith via Mike Rainbird?
It's a pretty simple affair - might be worth looking in Maplins or similar electronics store, to be honest.

JohnD

 

But the airflow over the sensor makes the reading meaningless !

Would you install it in your vacuum cleaner hose, or it's body ?

WRC intake reaches 250 degrees ! pre-intercooler of course !

Makes a knocklink look sophisticated....

dunx

P.S. Some rudimentary mathematics would indicate that the air speed through the throttle body of my car at full boost and full revs is approaching 200 mph, so you might as well hang it out the window and do a top speed run. IMHO

 

dunx,the temp at where my probe is is the temp of the air exactly after the intercooler,so it shows me pretty well what temp/how efficient my TMIC is, as it rushes thru the throttle body its not going to change temp by 50 degrees or so and im interested in the temp my Intercooler is working at, as the air passes over hotter parts yeah,its going to increase but not by much.

its an indication and works very well, if i had a blocked TMIC id know from the reading etc.

as said,its not a pinpoint exact measurement,thats getting **** but a good indication of my TMIC workings.

if the probe was in the throttle body the obsorbtion of heat from the metal would give false readings too so either way the readings are never going to be exact,but in the throttle body/tmic hose seems logical and from what i see,the more sort after and easier place to install

 

If you look at this graph, you can see that an air temp of 35deg f at 4mph, drops to 2deg f at 45mph. It's the wind chill effect!

 

Got one of these mounted into my ashtray. You have to buy a voltage adapter to run from 5v to 12v (think thats what it is) this only costs a couple of quid.

Extend the sensor wiring and I just put it between the intercooler and the throttle body, dont need to drill holes or nothing just poke it inder the jubilee clip into the pipe jobs agood un and cheap as chips.

WaterCooling UK - PC Water Cooling Shop and Forums | Home of Thermochill UK

This is the one.

WaterCooling UK: 12V - 5V Reducer Cable

 

Like your gauges but wheres you heater controls.

 

Heater controls are in my glovebox,the manual slide bars were replaced with electronic sendor units to adjust the heat/fan speed etc

 

****!!! That looks good Mit. How long it take you to polish that?

 

Does blowing harder on your skin prove that the air gets colder when it speeds up

 

Any idea what the update speeds are like? (sampling rate?)

Cheers
Stew

 

Every second I would say mine constantly changes.

 

Got my setup from the bay in the end.

my 1st one was from maplins, had it fitted 2 yrs but the probe broke,but they only do a 10 second refresh rate model now, so in the end i searched and found a place in hong long and paid £8 delivered and its better than any i saw on the market for £20+

Its powered by the cars 12v system too and no need for any resistors to be fitted,already all geared up for the 12v supply

bloke was very professional and it has a 2 second refresh rate

 

It's not mine, i stole the pic off ebay! It's listed on there at the mo.

 

Rig, you've got a nice centre dash there (with the 3 dials in the heater panel )... but the white surround of the LED temp gauge is letting it down.

Have you not thought of removing it, masking off the display and spraying the surround in satin black, then a clear coat laquer to seal in the paint? Do that, and it'll finish it off nicely...

 

A safe reading of an incorrect temperature is no use at all !

Please will somebody try a dual input gauge as suggested, to prove a point !

It's like reading EGT at the exit of your exhaust.

dunx

P.S. Mit has grasped this one, and has a better way than I, of indicating the errors involved.

P.P.S. This sort of error can bring down an aircraft, what chance does your Scoob have ?

 

Dunx - what points need measuring and what type of sensors do you want using?

Mit has pasted up a windchill plot, which is a measure of the apparent air temperature on the skin of humans.
The air temperature is unchanged (sensor temp) with increasing wind flow - it is just that the "feel" of the air temp to a human is lower with an increase in wind flow, as more heat is removed from the skin by convection and evaporation.
The increase in wind speed has NOT altered the air temperature.

Where Mit wants to mount his sensor is the PCV valve, but if not used then its fine.
The newage Spec C has a charge temp mount in roughly the same place.
The sensor should be an insulated K probe or PT100 to avoid/reduce radiant heat transfer into its body.

The ideal charge temp reading point is in the combustion chamber - not quite a rig that an enthusiast can do.
Next best point is the inlet manifold, so long as the sensor isn't picking up heat energy from the manifold body.
The joiner hose offers an easy install and minimises radiant heat input.

Nick

 

IMHO

dunx

P.S. So throttle body icing is not related to intake temperature and velocity then ?

 

Stop chucking in spurious principles that have no bearing on the issue.

At the throttle, depending on how cracked open it is, there will be a velocity increase, pressure and temp drop and if high enough humidity then ice will form - but only on the throttle plate.
Once the charge gets past the throttle, velocity decreases, pressure and temp go back up to essentially pre-throttle conditions.
The charge then gets split four ways and assuming the sum of the four inlet tract cross section areas equal that of the throttle body, then the velocity and pressure are maintained to the inlet valve. Charge temperature may increase, depending upon what heat is picked up from the inlet tract walls and the charge velocity.

The IC is still a valid point for sensor mounting, if radiant heat input can be eliminated -but there is no reason to reject the following joiner tube as a valid location, as there is no sudden drop in charge temperature here.

BTW - windchill temps are a scientific interpretation (index) of the brains' perception of what the cold wind "feels" like. It is not an actual temperature at the skin surface.

Nick