so if i have a VF35, (for a bugeye wrx)
what supporting mods do i "have" to get?

pink injectors?
new tmic? or fmic?

 

tubular headers, pink injectors, sti top mount would be a good mod and re map

 

Personally I'd stick with OE headers, but ported and wrapped, which will give a much better response low down the rev range..

As said, STI pink injectors 550cc and STI TMIC/scoop and undertray, which bolts straight on..
A set of colder plugs wouldn't hurt NGK PRF7b's and definitely an uprated fuel pump, Walbro 255.

A good map should see a good 330-340, with slightly less torque..

 

I agree with my online matey and helper, jasonius again here.
Stick with ported oem headers, these will serve you better and save you a fortune. You will get a superb result if mapped properly with the supporting mods as well.

 

 

You "have" to get:
more capable fuel pump.
A fuel pressure regulator OR bigger injectors, or both.
A remap.
You will see gain with ported headers and maybe with a STi8 IC.
You'll gain top end power but loose spool with tubular headers and FMIC.
You will easliy burn your clutch and 2nd & 3rd gears on the OE 'box with the torque you'll see after everyhing is done.

 

woah woah!!!
burn the clutch???

i thought its good for 340bhp and similar torque

i already got fuel pump

i will be getting pink injectors, and maybe a tmic (not decided which one)
and will do a remap.
and thats about it really

 

i've got all the bits

td05, 255fp, decat uppipe and downpipe, 3 port solenoid, 550s, but runing with oe top mount and now thinking of porting the oe headers. Should i get a sti v 7/8 top mount r is the std wrx one ok to run with

getting remaped by JGM in march

 

i also got a apexi AVCR lying around

should i fit it?
even though i don't know how to use it

 

You can easily burn the clutch with OE power & torque, and 3rd gear aswell.
But you can also run for ages with 300+ without damaging any of them.
Driving style, mechanical sympathy

 

See my scooby for an idea

Ns04

 

can't the standard clutch take it?

btw my car has done 52k how often should the clutch be changed anyway?

 

I'm sorry for giving you a scare, don't change the clutch until it eventually burns. If you avoid standing starts you *should* be ok.
And a clutch giving in could mean a cog wheel in your gearbox surviving

For my part I'm just waiting for the clutch to start slipping...

 

One of those "how long is a piece of string" answers I'm afraid.

If it's still on the original clutch at 52k then it'll be well past its best and a VF35 will most likely finish it off during the mapping, which could mean two trips to the mapper! The OEM clutch would be on borrowed time with a good result from a VF35 IMHO

What you want to establish is whether the car has already had an uprated clutch fitted (before you owned it, if applicable)

If not, I'd be having a word with David at APi about one of his Exedy uprated organic clutches.

Ns04

 

nope, i had the car from new, so nothing done to the clutch,
are they like brakes, in which you can check the condition of it? or is it not possible?

 

Yes, you can check the condition, but the labour costs entailed in exposing the clutch mean that it'd be a bit daft not to change it having gotten to it if you see what I mean.

Labour on a clutch change usually amounts to 4-5 hours work. It's a big job on a scooby!

Ns04