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Cerematallic Paddle Clutch

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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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From: BERKSHIRE
Default Cerematallic Paddle Clutch

Have one of these sat in the shed.

What are they like to drive with on the roads?

I've a mildly tuned MY95 WRX that is more of a toy rather than a daily driver. Don't mind a little 'quirkishness' associated with modified cars.

Cheers for your thoughts, comments
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Forgot to add, it's a solid type, not spring damped
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:38 PM
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dont bother my ap one takes a lot of getting used to and concentration so i would only put one in a high powered car and not needed on a mildly tuned car
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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Totally agree it's not required on a low powered WRX.

When you say concentration, is that just in the pulling away stakes, or is it just 'undriveable'?

It's in the shed, and I'm tight. I'd be prepared to fit it and give it a go, but if it's just a complete pain in the ****, then I won't bother.

Any characteristics of such a clutch welcome.
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 07:03 PM
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2/3/4/5/6 gear totally normal just takes practice when pulling away to avoid judder but needed with higher torque
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by p1junkie
2/3/4/5/6 gear totally normal just takes practice when pulling away to avoid judder but needed with higher torque
Practice as in riding/feathering the clutch a little more than normal to get a good low speed take off?

Thanks for the advice/experience by the way
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Old Aug 11, 2008 | 08:11 PM
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hard to describe but get biting point then either let off slow and then rev or get biting point and just use more revs about 1500 and if feel judder feather it a bit
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 02:01 PM
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p1junkie: Is yours sprung or solid?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by BOB'5
p1junkie: Is yours sprung or solid?
I'm guessing that this makes a big difference?

I assume the springs are there to dampen out the judder on initial take off?
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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must be sprung i would immagine solid wld be a real pig
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Old Aug 13, 2008 | 09:11 AM
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I have an Exedy Hyper (single plate, sprung) it was a pig (chatter) until it settled down (about 1000 miles on road). IMHO bottom line with paddle clutches is that you can't really slip them as in holding on a hill or the like, pulling away needs to be done in a smooth motion through the biting point without stopping. Reduced inertia in drivetrain is great on track.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:30 AM
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Ceramettalic is much more 'on off' than a stock organic with a very narrow 'slip zone', and if you do slip it they overheat faster than a misses finding you doing your neighbours daughter and can be trashed in no time, as has been said the technique is a single smoothish launch with minimal slip, forget hill starts as well!

Simon
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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I used to run a Helix one on my old turbocharged Clio 16v, mainly because I did a lot of quarter miling and track work in it. I wouldn't say it was much fun on the road tbh. You can get used to it, but you start to dread getting stuck in traffic, which is a nightmare. It's basically on-off and virtually nothing in between. For standing starts it's incredible, you just cannot break it and the more you dump it harshly, the better it works. You CAN slip it a tiny bit, but not enough to make it normal in traffic and it's just not designed for that kind of work.

I'd not hesitate if I was building another out and out track/strip car, but not for a road-going machine unless there was no alternative.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 09:55 PM
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From: BERKSHIRE
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Cheers for the feedback guys, for my use, this clutch plate is not for me it seems.

I'll slap it on Ebay at some point
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