Hi Guys

I'm running a 2001 Bugeye WRX, done quite a few mods and running at 325BHP. I wanted to fit an aftermarket dumpvalve, just fancied some more crazy noise when pushing the car. However I have heard this can affect fuel consumption and also make the car run rough. So i am thinking about removing the resonsator, as i know this can increase oem dump valve noise and i should also be able to hear my VF35 spool up more!

My questions are...

If I remove the resonator and i dont like how it sounds or how it affects the car can i put it back?
Is there an "How to" guides online?
How much will i hear the std oem BV and turbo?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Knobby.

 

Yes you can refit it. If I remember correctly it is just a case of unbolt it and pull it out of the airbox and the snorkel. I think I have pic's from a instruction leaflet when I fitted my FMIC I will try to find them and post. I would leave the snorkel in place as long as it does not rattle to much as this will prevent warm air from the engine bay being sucked in. Steve

 

Thanks for the info.. the leaflet info would be great. As i understand it i have to mount a cold air feed?

 

Maybe not the best quality. When you comment about cold air feed that is why I suggested leaving the snorkel in place.Hope this helps.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../resunator.jpg

 

Clicky

Found this link. Ok seems like I have an idea of what to do.. i'm really surprised no one has writen a article with pictures. So i can just remove the resenator and leave it like that, you dont have to seal it back up again??

 

Well I got to it this afternoon, removed the Resonator and replaced it with some hosing, think it worked quite well.. let me know what you think..

However, i cannot hear the oem dumpvalue, which is slightly annoying cos that was the whole point of doing it. The induction noise is louder.

 

...but it's been proved that the snorkel removal is a surefire way to lose BHP

 

I have also tested this and it unfortunately very true.

The ACTs go through the roof without it

Unless you duct a ram pipe direct from the front of the car to the airbox and re-scale the MAF sensor.

 

ive not removed the snorkel, only the resenator...

 

same thing isn't it?

 

ive still got the duct that goes from the front of the car. so the standard intake.. Ive removed the resonator from the wing (the huge plastic box) and put a tube from the std duct into the air box.

 

Yup mate.. same thing

 

Id do it properly and lose the duct and run a ram pipe, then go get it mapped.

Get yourself an ACT gauge to actually see what youre messing with mate.

Not having a go but you need to see the results/evidence of your actions.

 

I thought the Resonator removeal was a standard mod on the bugeyes?

 

Chaps read this thread.

Then read the results on post 44

https://www.scoobynet.com/fog-cover-...?highlight=ram

 

Explain.... pls

Guessing ya saying the amount of difference it makes and that i havent had a remap to compensate for this. right?

Might put it back next weekend

 

This is copied from another thread on 'Resonator removal'


''I had read on here that removing the snorkel ie. the inner wing resonator box was a performance mod. I had done it a couple of times in the past but could not determine any gain. (Unless you wanted more noise from the induction) On this occasion with an STi 3 Wagon I wanted to test various panel air filters and see what gains were to be had from the snorkel removal.
The tests were conducted on a Dyno Dynamics rolling road at TEG Sport on 2 consecutive afternoons. The best power run was 335.5 bhp with the snorkel. The best power run after removing the snorkel was 325 bhp. After refitting the snorkel I immediately got 335 bhp. For me this was conclusive and I think that with the snorkel removed the air flow was sufficiently disrupted to cause the power loss.
I had cut 2" off the original snorkel so that it butted in to the inner wing to facilitate best possible air flow. I had to obtain a replacement snorkel to go back to the original OE system.
As the car was on a standard ECU (with standard injectors and turbo) it was not possible to experiment with fuelling to determine if there would be any gains with a mappable ECU.
The result was contrary to what I had expected but worthwhile as far as I am concerned.''

hth

 

Ha ha.... Back shes goes to standard next weekend then.. i assume it will be safe to run for the next weeks driving...

 

Shold be okay but dont boot it about as the ACTs will be considerably higher now the snorkel isnt there.

 

I did have the engine light flash on and off for a short period of time when out for a test run but i forgot to do up one of the clamps on the hose to the air box. Think i shall put back to standard tomorrow nite and buy myself a dump value

 

I give up!

 

 

ha ha.... I just fancy one...

ive done a few mods now, running 325 BHP with 317LBS of torque, i'm getting itchy feet and need something to spend my money on

 

ive got a Turbosmart Supersonic DV sat in my garage doing nothing and been on the car for 3mths and its done the wifes head in, so its now taken off.
Its yours for £80 plus P+P and costs over £230 new.
Comes with all pipes and connectors

 

If you have a decat and removal the snorkel you still wont be able to hear anything

 

I'm raking up old ground here but the search thingy is here for some reason

Right, I'm going to be removing my Resonator box in the near future hoping to help on the air feed side. Going for mapping at the end of the month and looking for the best result.

I am going to be keeping the snorkle to feed the airbox.

I am confused as to the above, frayz, what are you refering to as the snorkle?

Sorry about this but so's not to confuse the issue (i think) I'll call things A, B & C

I'm talking Newage here but the principle is the same I guess.

A is the bit the starts the intake process. Sits on the slam panel sucking cold air in from the front of the car. The purpose od A is to channel cold air to B.

B is the bit in the inner wing void, B is being fed cold air from A and feeding it to C after removing noise going the other way. The purpose of B is to quieten down the induction noise.

C is the thing that is fed by B. It houses the air filter that cleans the air before it goes through the MAF. The purpose of C is to clean the air.


Right after that crap story,

I'd call:

A - The Snorkle

B - The Resonator

C - The Air Box

Removing the resonator from the intake looses you power,

or

Removing the snorkle from the intake looses you power.

We're only removing one iten here remember.

If I remove the resonator, I'm retaining the snorkle to feed the airbox, bypassing the resonator.

The cold airbox is still getting plenty of cold air but without the restriction of all those bends.

I'm I still going to loose power by removing the resonator box.

Thanks in advance,

 

Nick

I'd try and PM Butty or WRX Rich ......they have played around with the newage intake side quite a bit

Shaun

 

Thanks Shaun,

I'll give them ago tomorrow,

I think its time for bed now.

Cheers mate

 

Whats a Ram air,?

 

What is ram air or what is a ram air?

Ram air is a type of induction system which uses the speed of the car to 'Ram Air' down the intake inlet

A Ram Air could be a number of things, there are filters you can get called Ram Air or it could be a type of wool that comes from a male sheep.....Ram Air???