Has anyone fitted one of these to their car? It takes out the intake resonator and is supposed to increase responsiveness and give a louder turbo and induction noise. It costs about £80 delivered to the UK from the states.

http://www.billandelaine.co.uk/scoob...kelremover.jpg

 

Just remove the resinator from under the front wing. Leaving the air feed from the front into the inner wing space. At least then the air doesn't have to do a 180 turn.

 

but that would leave a gap between the air box and the inside of the wing which would draw hot air from the engine bay.

I'm not expecting a big increase in bhp, but I recon it might increase the response a bit if the air has an easier route to the turbo.

 

I used a 100mm tumble dryer hose and ran it from the airbox to the inner wing..... that way its taking cold air from the inner wing, you can blank off the gap from the ram air scoop to the wing so no hot engine bay air gets in, and......

It cost about £6......

Slight difference in top end pull but certainly not much, may even just be my imagination. Most noticeable difference is in sound, more turbo whistle and the OE dump valve is a lot more audible....

Cheers
Chris

 

Chris, I see where your coming from, but I would need to revert it back to normal when it goes back in for service (every 5K). This intake elbow will look like the standard resonator to the dealer.

I've just bought a TSL centre section (without resonator) and I've ordered a set of ported headers from Harvey. The car will be making some good noises from the front and rear with these mods stuck on!

Cheers

Anders

 

I assume that by your user ID you own a WR1 ?

The induction tract will be different to a classic, which I believe
the other member is talking of.

Rob

 

[quote=Anders_WR1]but that would leave a gap between the air box and the inside of the wing which would draw hot air from the engine bay.

Maybe I was not completely clear in what I put. You only remove the resinator from under the wing leaving the snorkel in place to feed cold air from the front of the car into the inner wing. I would think that you will also get cold air entering the inner wing from other areas at the front of the car aswell. due to my fitting of a FMIC I had to remove all of the induction side and fit an induction kit. One of my job's this weekend is to run some trunking inside the inner wing to direct cold air from the front bumper onto the induction kit. Best of luck steve

 

I understand - leave the cold air induction in place, but the when I had the panel filter out looking at this, part of the resonator box comes through in to the airbox. If this gap isn't plugged hot air would be sucked in from the engine bay. That's why Chris suggested tumble dryer hose to seal the gap.

I think I'll spend the £80 and see how it goes. The GP Moto intake elbow has polished insides as well to help with the air flow.

Cheers

Anders

 

I have seen these, give us a shout with your findings

 

Will do, I'll be ordering on Tuesday next week. I've been told a week for delivery from the States.

Anders

 

Anders
If the resonator is removed then grey drainage pipe (3"??) fits perfectly into the entrance to the airbox to give a seal. Cost was about £12.
I used 45 deg & 90 deg bends to give a short intake inside the wing that's high enough to miss most floods.
The hole between the engine bay & wing was sealed with alu. plate.

Nick

 

see this

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6104

there are also people on here that have done something similar corradoboy I think just do a search an air box mod or the like

 

Cheers for your comments lads. I'm going to take the easy option and buy the GP moto part. Too much hastle to cut drain pipe and the GP moto should keep it looking standard when it goes in for service.

Anders

 

I recommend removing the ram-air scoop as well as the resonator. If you look at where the scoop is supposed to draw air from, there is a rubber seal atop the headlight and another 2 seals along the front underside of the bonnet. The only air available for that scoop has come up past a piping hot radiator. Remove it by simply taking out 2 bolts. Then remove the res, another 2 bolts (one beside the airbox, one below the headlight) and extract it through the wheelarch. Seal off all the holes left with duct tape or similar, including any other holes such as the headlight loom run. Open the airbox and duct-tape around the intake hole, sealing it to the wing. Fit a free flowing panel such as JR Racing, Green or K&N. Job done.

If you must have the part from America, it's $45 HERE, $39 HERE

 

Corradoboy, cheers for the links. I wanted to fit the intake elbow because I'm too lazy to swap it all back when the car goes in for service.

I had a look under the bonnet and see the rubber seals you talked about. Looks like the rear seal stops it sucking air from the engine bay. On my car, there's a gap in front of the radiator for the air to come through, so the air should be cool.

Out of interest where does the cold air come from in the wing when the cold air induction hole is sealed up? Is there any danger of water ingress?

Cheers

Anders

 

There's plenty of air in the wing as it isn't a sealed enclosure. On an STi the fog covers have a slot in them letting air through. On my WRX I have drilled out a piece of the foglight mounting plate (plastic) behind the fog surround trim where the fake styling vent bits are. On track I remove the foglight altogether. Mine has been like this for 2 years now with no water ingress, but there have been a few stories where people have ducted the air directly from the front into the airbox. DO NOT DO THIS

 

removed my resonator yesterday and couldnt believe the size of the bloody thing!!!! ran a piece of cool air ducting inside inner wing to front bumper,not too low tho avoid intake of water lol.

 

I advise you remove the ducting.

 

What's your opinion of this mod? Does it improve induction and turbo noise (louder means better for me) or does it feel a little more responsive as well?

Is your car an STI?

Anders

 

corradoboy, I see where you are coming from with the removal of tubing from the front bumper. when I fit mine i am going to cut a hole halfway up the tubing so it cannot suck up water. Years ago going through a F'in big puddle due to very heavy rain in S'Wales I flooded the engine on my Ren19 16v easy to get to the plugs on that, cant think about doing similar to a scooby when pissing down with rain.

 

I wouldn't bother changing the inlet tract from stock on most Subarus unless I was fitting a FMIC and had to redo the inlet or I had very good evidence that it was absolutely required.