does any1 have a step by step guide on how too remove the ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR

reason y i ask, as im replacing mine to c if thats the fault as advised then if it isnt then its gonna b the sensor next too it..

all info pls as i dont have a clue myself

o and the location of said sensor, i fgot a ruff idea but thats about all

 

Dont envy you if it's an early car.

Get the plasters at the ready

 

shud of said lolz

my95 heh btw

 

Can't remember exactly what I did, 'cause it was a while back, but hopefully these photos will help (MY93 WRX).

You'll need to take off the induction pipework to the turbo, plus another pipe to give yourself some room to access the sensor. (New sensor sat in the tool tray - aka intercooler)


Once all that's out the way, it's mainly a case of fumbling with a spanner without trying to loose too much skin off your knuckles. Be prepared for some loss off coolant as you pull the old sensor out.


Don't forget to top up the water afterwards!

The symptoms that caused me to replace the sensor were:
Poor running as the engine warmed-up from cold, then
Difficult to start the engine from cold (fan operating, ECU probably assuming engine was hot as sensor was out of limits).

HTH

 

Oh yeah,

try not to drop anything on the top of the engine block while you're fiddling around under the inlet manifold - it'll take you ages to find it again!

 

And stick a rag in the turbo inlet!

 

...and that, obviously!

 

cheers dave d for info, most helpfull

any1 with other valuable helpfull advice???

 

dont get any salt and vinegar on your hands for a bit after!

 

You think thats hard, try doing a temp gauge sender on a Mk2 MR2.. Would have been easier to replace the whole engine.

 

Am I right in saying thats the temp gauge sender next to the ECU sender? need to replace this on the other halfs car.

 

^^^ yes it is

 

Excrement!

 

having to change the temp gauge sensor first, hope thats the prob, if not gonna have to do the other 1, but any1 kno how much they cost?

 

..and don't use the intercooler to store tools

Simon

 

I had a look at the temp sensor today while I had the I/C off, when I short the spade to earth the temp gauge doesnt move so I'm starting to think there is a problem with the gauge

 

there are two temp sensors, one for the guage and one for the ECU..

Andy

 

yup i kno fuzz, small 1 makes the needle move large 1 sends info to the eco

my needle aint moving correctly so trying that 1 first

 

The needles doesnt budge a mm on this one, I've tried earthing the connector spade and NOTHING so the gauge must be buggered

 

its not the gauge its the sender

 

If Davey has earthed out (to the block) the wire for the gauge and the gauge dont move, then it's the gauge Sheildy.... or the wiring

Andy

 

Does anyone know which pin feeds the temp gauge on the back of the dash pod, and what kind of input is required, that will atleast show me if its the gauge or the wire

 

o ok, so how would u do this? would u still need to remove all the piping to get at the hausing?

 

Don't be put off by horror stories, I got one from Grade A components (01663 744114) for £35.85, delivered next day. Took me an hour to do the job. Once you get the pipes out of the way it's easy, the hard bit was getting the connector off as the release clip is on the bottom but a half turn with the spanner brought it to the top, the rest as they say is history. Made a hell of a difference to the cars performance. No endless cranking of engine, no iffy starts, no spluttering. It's a real joy to drive again.

best of luck.

derek

 

You just remove the spade connector and run a wire from it to the chassis.. The sensor just varies resitance depending on the temperature of the coolant so shorting to earth will be like max temperature.

 

well wish me luck im gonna give this ago myself today:P

well only way im gonna learn cant reply on peeps doing mundane jobs for me all the time, but the biggie 1's they can do for me hehe

 

Done the temp sensor when I replaced the cam belt.. I think the temp sensor was harder than the belt! I removed the turbo inlet pipe and breather hoses from that area, then removed the two hoses that go to the boost control solinoid, there was JUST enough room to get my hand in there! Damn sight easier than the MR2 but still a f*cking pig of a job!

Turned out the gauge was fine too, I just didnt have the ignition all the way on when I earthed it, oops!

Best advice I could give, use a decent spanner! if you round off the brass head on the sender your going to be having LOTS OF FUN!

 

it finally got done, wot a basterd of a job to do