Hi all first post so be nice

Just got a 2001 wrx in blue with 30k. had it all of about 1 month and the modding bug has hit . . . . . On to my questions

First whats the max safe psi that can be run with/getting fitted: Induction kit, turbo back 3" exhaust (with both de-cats) dawes device (mechanical boost valve) and Blitz blow off valve?

Am i right in thinking fuel cut comes in at about 13.5psi?

cheers mart

 

The BOV will not add to your performance.
Not sure as to the exact fuel cut figure on your vehicle but without it the engine internals are quite safe up to 15 or 16 psi BUT it is not simply a matter of turning up the boost.
Your car will probably accept a modest boost lift with no ill effect but as boost increases you need more fuel so you need to know what you are doing and you need to be able to check AFRs. At some point as the boost is lifted there will be the need for more fuel and so you need the means to do that or limit boost to a safe level which could be around 1 bar but that needs checking.
The consequence of getting it wrong is a piston picked up in the bore through weak running under power.

 

The BOV was added because i thought the standard recerc one leeked once boost was turned up?

Any idea what on what safe psi will be? I thought the ECU would correct the fueling (too an certain extent) with upped boost about 3psi

 

why risk taking away cars control of boost for the sake of 3psi and will mess ecu about

 

3psi made a big difference to the feel of my last car (i know i cant/shouldnt compare two totaly diffrent makes of car)

What does the AFM max out at? anyone?

cheers

 

3 psi could be a OK. Every car is different. You are messing with something you know nothing about and the consequence could be BAD. These things cannot be answered hard and fast by internet. Get someone who knows what they are doing to do it or suffer the consequences if you mess with it yourself.

 

Std Recirculating ones are very good and no there is really no point in messing with them untill much higher power levels are aspired to.

I may get shot down for this view, but I don't like the idea of dawes devices etc.. I know that Scoobies run rich, which gives one a bit of room to play with the boost, but -and this is the big but- Increasing the boost is only one part of the equation, fueling and ignition maps should also be altered to suit. If you want more power safely, you're gonna have to pay for it. I'd figure on a Decat and proper remap of the ECU by an expert with the right equipment and experience. It costs more, but considerably less than rebuild!

NS04

 

Yeah i dont like dawes devices much but there a lot better (less spiky) than bleed valves and good value for money. The ecu should corret fueling/timing to a certain extent to make sure there is no DET/lean running

 

As the other 4 posters have said , IMO get a re-map, don't risk messing around with the boost unless you are able to measure the A/F etc, it's not cheap engine to rebuild when it all goes wrong..

Just had my '01 remapped, best investment I've made