Hi Chaps.

dumbass mechophobe question, but I've never done this before.

I've got some mintex pads, a full set of goodridge hoses and some ap racing 551 (DOT3) fluid ready to go on/in the car (a uk 00MY imp turbo). I've changed the pads before, and know this to be a doddle, but is changing the hoses and fluid as straightforward as it seems???

I've come up with the following (trademarked and copyrighted ) plan, so someone please tell me if there are any potential cockups here...

Subaru recommend starting with the front right corner, then rear left, front left and finishing with the rear right.

So, starting with the front right...

1 - jack up car, remove wheel. remove the pad retaining bits from the caliper
2 - attach hose to bleed valve, then open bleed valve to ease the removal of the old pads and to push the pots back into the caliper body.
3 - close bleed valve and remove old pads.
4 - undo hose at caliper end and drain fluid.
5 - undo hose at body end.
6 - attach new hose
7 - insert new pads into calipers and replace retaining bits.
8 - pump and bleed the fluid until the new fluid comes through, constantly topping up the fluid in the reservoir.
9 - close bleed valve, check pedal feel and check for leaks.

... and as above for the remaining three corners.

What do you reckon? This should work, shouldn't it??

Cheers

Kev.

 

Kev, I've done this a few times, and you've clearly thought about it, however, my plan would be.....
1. jack up and remove wheel.....
2. get a pair of mole grips or ideally a hose clamp, place this on the old hose fairly near the body end, ie, in-between the strut and body, this will stop too much fluid being lost and air getting in....
3. undo the banjo fitting on the caliper, and retain the bolt........
4. Remove the sprung clip that holds the hose to the strut... and remove the hose through the strut, at this point leave the old hose connected to the body..
5. feed the new hose through the strut, you may find that the new one won't fit, the two flats on the new hose will more than likely be too far aprt, and therefore it won't fit, at this point you need to grind/file the hjose support bit down so that it fits, crazy I know, but even goodridge advised me to do this!!!!! then clip it in place.
6. fit the new copper washer either side of the banjo fitting with the bolt that you removed earlier in to caliper.
7. undo the union into the old hose at the body end, and replace with the new hose, obviously removing the clip first.....
8. withe the old pads still in place, bleed the one caliper that you've just done, using your prefered method.
9. finally now all the mucky bit's done and dusted, change the pads for the nice new ones......
10. repeat times four...........
11. get a beer and relax....... and swear never again......

I've probably missed something, but the best advice is to take your time, and ensure that when you fit the new hoses, they fit in such a way that when the struts move that they won't come into contact with anything, you don't want them fraying......

 

Cheers Ron.

I seem to recall being on the receiving end of your advice sometime in the past, so that's two pints I owe you now

Good to know that my first plan was basically ok, just missing a few embellishments, the most important one being the beer. I'm not as big a mechanical idiot as I thought

Edited to add - I fuggin HATE grinders

Cheers again

Kev

 

sounds so easy...always something that slows you down though.

When I did mine I wore the nut out trying to open it. Gave up in the end. Did the fronts and left the rears.

Bob

 

One thing to watch , where the steel pipe meets the flexy pipe on the inner wing , crack the metal pipe fitting loose with mole grips as they are tight , then use a spanner , if you try with a spanner you WILL end up rounding off the fitting , then you will never get it to seal

 

Ditto - awd wrx - getting the old hoses off was the biggest problem I (I mean we ) had when doing mine...

Molegrips are an essential.

 

Remember to also bleed the brakes in the correct order, i recently fitted Prodrive Alcon brakes and let the system completely drain of all the old fluid before starting from scratch with the new fluid and the bleeding.

 

Cheers. I've enlisted the help of a technically competent mate, so I'll be sorting this out this afternoon/evening.

Wouldn't it be an idea to have a "How To.." section on SN? It seems that a lot of stuff is covered, but the majority of this is burried somewhere in the SN vaults and is often difficult to find. There's no Haynes manual that covers any Subaru model, either, so this would be a bloody good resource, I reckon, esp if Subaru could give their permission for their tech. drawings, etc, to be used.

Hmm... I'll send this to the webmaster for consideration

Kev

 

I forgot to say about cracking the connection at the body end with the molegrips.... i had to do that aswell....

And forget bleeding in the right order 'if' you do one at a time you'll have no trouble, if you drain the whole system that may be different......

 

All done, and not a mole grip or rounded nut in sight (soaked all the important bits with WD40 this morning).

Seems a simple enough job in theory, and is pretty straightforward once you've seen it done, but this is one of those jobs that you NEED to see being done before attempting it yourself.

Muchas gracias to Llyr (L1J) for working in freezing conditions, for not using a grinder and for missing his tea . That's a huge favour I owe you.

Kev

 

Wow, glad I found this thread, just in the proccess of doing mine now!!

So... What is the correct order for beelding the brakes then???

 

We (well, Llyr) did it front right, rear left, front left, rear right. Worked fine.

Kev