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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 09:28 PM
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Occasionally in 5th on my 5 Type R, I get clutch slip (between 4-5krpm). There seems to be plenty of free play on the clutch near the slave cylinder (apparently) and it doesnt do it all the time (so we dont think the clutch is knackered)! Car has done 37K miles (also started happening to my mates MY99 UK car today). ANy Ideas?
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 10:58 PM
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its slipping

does it do it in 4th too under WOT?


mine does.. in 3rd, 4th AND 5th .. joy
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 09:30 AM
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It does it fairly rarely in all honesty, but only in 4th/5th. I have been running with this power/torque since april, without a problem. I assume it will slip because there is too much torque being fed through the clutch (does this mean the clutch is knackered, or it just needs to be replaced with a stronger item?) Mostly does it when cold (which is strange 'cos a clutch will slip more when hot)

If it wasnt so on/off then I would know it was knackered.

The only thing I can say is that when testing the clutch, the pedal did not return all the way a couple of times, and I had to flick it back out with my toe (I have checked this when it slips and it doesnt seem to be sticking then)
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 09:41 AM
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my sti5 started torque slipping with 38k on the clock, after just squeezing the throttle to overtake it would slip then catch, it would only slip once a day & every so often, after getting it changed i just avoided damaging the flywheel, dig deep mate
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 03:32 PM
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TTT cant afford a new clutch yet (after finding out I may not have a job for much longer) - any other reasons this would happen?
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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Talking

change smoother and dont nail it?

works for me currently until I make my midn up about a clutch..
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:21 PM
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I have a similar problem with my MY00. I don't know if it's anything to do with the light mods (full decat/panel filter/Dawes) but on the motorway in 5th.. floor it and I can hear it slip. It's not too bad at the moment probably only a few 100 rpm. I've heard you can get a Borg & warner clutch kit for about 85 quid. Anyone bought one of these?
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 01:30 PM
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screamer, ive seen a few people on here buying that make of clutch, its a personal choice really unless youre planning big mods, do a search on borg for further details
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:20 PM
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Andy, out of interest.. what clutch did you go for? I don't want anything that's too heavy to operate or is binary.

Adam
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:25 PM
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Adam, i went for an Exeddy clutch £320 for spinner/pressure & bearing, its very light but a bit aggressive, having said that its early days with it but i was warned that they are abit like that!

[Edited by Andy McCord - 1/20/2004 4:26:04 PM]
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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when i 1st got my my93 i went through 3 clutchs in about 5 months!!!!!!! 300 pound a time! so i've got 2 good cover plates and just need drive plates to go with them. one only lasted about 3 weeks, till i tryed to ram it into trird while racing on southport beach, completely ripped the lining off it!!!!!!!!!
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:42 PM
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I've heard you can get a Borg & warner clutch kit for about 85 quid. Anyone bought one of these?
It's Borg & Beck, not Borg Warner, and they're just over £100 for a complete unit inc cover and thrust bearing, but still excellent value. For a standard or subtly modified car, there is no point paying more IMO.

You can get them here.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/20/2004 4:43:29 PM]
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 04:47 PM
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so is the diagnosis that my clucth is shagged and needs to be changed (even though it rarely slips), and if so, what am I best to go for (car has somewhere around 305-330bhp and around 300ib/ft - although when funds allow I will be continuing with the mods)
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 07:27 PM
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Im in the same boat..

either gonna be an exedy from a mate- or a scoobyclinic race clutch and uprated release bearing/lateral clutch to cope with the figures you mention and not run the risk of killing it anytime soon..
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 08:32 PM
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so is the diagnosis that my clucth is shagged and needs to be changed
I didn't say that. If it's genuinely well worn, it should slip pretty much whenever you get it warm or put power through it. If it's inconsistent, there may be another issue, possibly heating of the clutch fluid or maybe even an oil leak through the back crank seal or the front gearbox. Unfortunately we can't diagnose all problems with the power of Greyskull, oops, Scoobynet, so if in doubt, take it somewhere good and get it looked at.

if so, what am I best to go for
The Borg & Beck clutch referenced above will cope with your current level of power and torque without issue. If you're thinking of further modification you really need to tell us how far you're thinking of going before we can suggest the most suitable option.

[Edited by greasemonkey - 1/20/2004 8:32:39 PM]
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Old Jan 20, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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Probably wouldnt go to far, say another 50bhp and similar lb/ftp (i.e. FMIC, Injectors (550's), headers, Turbo)) It wouldnt be for a long time though, as I love the car the way it is (i.e. no lag), and cant afford to do any mods atm.

I thought clutch slip usually occurred when the car is hot, it seems to mainly do it when cold, and when hot it seems to disappear?

I will be getting it looked at asap, I was just looking for pointers as to what it could be! The power levels I have mentioned shouldnt be too much for a standard STi Clutch should they?
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 12:14 AM
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I got my car, no clutch probs, changed DP for a H&S one (now 3" through to exit), HKS induction kit then clutch slips.
The old one was at end of life and slight increase in BHP pushed it too far.
I went for an Exeddy clutch at £300 fitted. As said previously its very light but a bit aggressive, I like it though, laps up the use/abuse.

I had a similar problem to what you describe in a Fiat Coupe 20v Turbo, the clutch only slipped in 4th or 5th and only occasionally, when I finally parted with the £800 (10 months later) to get a new one (£1200 at main dealers!) the reports was "Jeesus that was fcuked" as it was apparently worn down to the studs, any longer and I would of probably of caused serious damage.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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Cool

I'm thinking of fitting the new clutch myself (I had the downpipe off over Christmas so this should come off easily - used loads of coppa slip). I've been doing a few searches and believe they're some PDF step by step instructions floating around. Please can someone email them to me. I'll take a look at 'em and decide if I'm upto the job.

Cheers
Adam
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 03:00 PM
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Just thinking, it wouldnt be anything to do with the downpipe heating the clutch/clutch fluid (the heat shield has not been put back on)?
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 04:03 PM
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Wink

I thought that initially but I wrapped the downpipe and also replaced the heat shield. It was fine for a couple of weeks but I think the extra few horses was probably too much for the probably quite worn clutch. The car's done 77K and I reckon it's probably still on the original clutch although I don't know how long they normally last. I've seen people claiming 135K+ but who knows..
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 04:24 PM
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dont forget once the clutch pedal is released it wont make any difference what temp your fluid is to the performance off the clutch, IMHO most uk & sti clutches last between 40-50K, im sure there are some odd exceptions if the cars had an easy life on the gas pedal
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