Need to do "5th gear mod" on my box and want to do it without removing from car.

Was wondering if those who've previously done this have any advice/do's/don'ts that may make my life easier?

Presuming that rough procedure is:

Buy new transfer case sealing gasket, input shaft locknut and washer
Drain box
Remove crossmember, propshaft and gear linkage
Unbolt transfer case, and manouevre off towards the rear of the car.

So, what have I missed? Will the casing just pull off, clearing the main casing and gear linkage, and will the centre diff come out with it, or stay on the end of the output shaft package?

Thanks for any hints!

[Edited by greasemonkey - 8/27/2003 1:20:02 PM]

 

without removing it??

Brave..

David

 

I know, but it seems from a few people here it can be done!

YHM (or will in a minute), BTW

 

It should be possible to do it - as a matter of fact my mate (a mechanic) is attempting it as I'm typing this.

Getting the transfer box back on, with the gear selecting thinga-ma-jiggy-rod might be tricky (it's semi tricky with the box on a bench even), and not having that metal plate thingy on the end of the input shaft not falling loose at the same time...

I say it can be done, might be quicker to drop the tranny though...

/J

 

Centre diff can come out with the transfer case or you can slide it off as soon as you have the drop gears/backplate removed.
I suggest also removing the exhaust downpipe which allows the eng/box to tilt back more and lets you have more space. The transfer case section will still have a litre or so of oil in it so be prepared !

Andy

 

Cheers fellas. Was planning on jacking the back of the car up to help drain as much of the oil as possible, but will take precautions, thanks Andy!

I've also seen mention of buying two gaskets. Anyone know what the second one is, or is there only the one I should be worrying about?

 

It can be done and in my opinion its easier to do than remove the box completly. But it does depend on the mod you intend to carry out. I tightened the loose locknut on mine but this is basically all you have access to. To remove the 5th gear selector the box will need to be removed from what I saw. As for getting to 5th gear without removing the box I removed the exhaust at the point where the 2 bolts connect it to the downpipe. I left the downpipe conneceted but if yours is easy to disconnect do it. Remove the propshaft,then all the crossmembers and the gear linkage. Unbolt the rear casing and remove this with the centre diff. Once this is done you can remove the rear g/box casing and you then have access to the 5th gear. I found it very straight forward but fitting the rear casing was slightly tricky. Don,t hesitate to ask me any questions. Good luck!

 

Thanks Jamz, tightening the nut back up is all I'm planning to do as it's only just started to happen, hence not seeing the point in removing the entire box.

Questions, hmm, don't tempt me!

Would it be correct to assume that the transfer box just slides off, leaving the selector rod and all the other bits in place, and that fitting is literally just the reverse of disassembly?

 

Yes

 

Small tip with the gear selector rod - the shift fork axles (lacking the vocabulary) when together forms a hole on the left side, the end of the selector rod should go there when you're putting the transfer case back on, wriggle the rod around (put a screwdriver in the hole on it) to make sure you can select gears - after the case is back on.

120 Nm is the torque for that nut behind 5th driven gear on the input shaft - IIRC.

/J

 

Top banana gentlemen, thanks! Now roll on Saturday so I can get it sorted

 

I was told that the torque for the nut is 250Nm. Thats what i set mine to. To tighten the nut you'll need a 35mm socket with a thin wall. I used a ground down 36mm socket, apparently the same socket is used on citroen and peugeot hub nuts, you'll also need somebody and something to hold the mainshaft. I borrowed a special tool from work and engineered it to fit. Once it in bits you'll see what i mean. I also cleaned up all the threads on the layshaft and re-fitted the nut with loctite. When it was tight I peened it over properly. Don't worry to much about the selectors, they will move but won't go anywhere and you are right to assume that the transfer case will come off without the selectors.

 

Thanks Jamz. Silly question maybe,but seeing as I won't know exactly how I'm going to prevent the input shaft rotating until I've got everything in pieces, can you describe how your tool restrained yours?

 

I'm pretty sure the workshop manual says 118 +/- 6 Nm on that nut.

/J

 

I'm not sure if it's "healthy" but you could put it in 1st gear and pull the handbrake...I doubt 120 Nm would cause any harm though.

Selecting a gear with the transfer casing removed is just a matter of giving one of the selector arms a gentle shove (could need to line up the axles by rotating them a tad).

/J

[Edited by SecretAgentMan - 8/29/2003 5:05:41 PM]

 

Er, wakey wakey! That would be about as much use as a chocolate frying pan, bearing in mind the centre diff and propshaft aren't there!

If only it were that easy!

 

Not really...the handbrake won't do much (sorry, my error), but you're tightening the last nut on the input shaft...you'd be in business...that is if you could stop the engine from turning (a large socket on the front pulley perhaps?).

I might be talking outta the rear end.

/J

[Edited by SecretAgentMan - 8/29/2003 6:53:15 PM]

 

Yep, was going to try putting it in first and restraining the crank via the front pulley retaining bolt. To be honest bigger problem right now is getting hold of a 35mm socket. Tried all the big toolshops in my area this pm, and two of them have just sold the one they carry. B*gger!

Will grind my 36 down if I have to, but never like starting a job without knowing I've got the correct tools first. May ask my friendly local Scoob dealer for a loan in the morning...