Hello all,

Many people have been asking me for this so here we are.

The pics where taken on a MY00 UK engine if your is not a year 2000 model then the setup may be different.

The FPR used was one from FSE, if yours is not an FSE one then your installation may be different.

1- Top of the engine view showing the black fuel pipes
2a- This is where I attached the bracket for the FPR
2b- The FPR where is will sit when it is all connected
3a- Close up of the fuel rails
3b- Remove the middle pipe
4- The connections that come with the FPR shown in pipes
5- removed pipe goes to bottom of FPR
6- Looking down by the turbo past the actuator you can see the original
FPR. The small pipe should lead up to the intake manifold. The black pipe coming off to the left goes to other side of the engine bay. The two screws hold in place the OEM FPR, you want to undo the screws and pull it out - becareful not to damage the o-ring. You may need this if you break the one supplied in the FPR kit like I did.
7b- close up of OEM FPR
7c- close up of OEM FPR
8a- shows the bit you want to replace the OEM FPR with. The pipe coming from the other side of the engine is a bit short so I connected this up first the tried getting it screwed in which took a lot of effort as the srcatched prove. You may want to screw the replacement part in first then try to connect up the pipe, as I say if it is not long enough you may need to source a longer pipe.
8b- scratched, but in
8c-another view
9a-The vacum pipe from the FPR goes on to the intake manfold where the OEM FPR went
9b-closer view
9c-closer still. Obviously route the cables in sensible postitions, I ran the vacum pipe under the intercooler
outlet.

Once connected undo the nut on the FPR and the locking nut too leaving the FPR ready to be adjusted. Get some one to look at the fuel pressure gauge to see what it get so to as you turn the ignition on and the fuel pump primes the rails. I think it should get to about 3.8bar. Now start the engine and let it idle, the fuel pressure should be adjusted to 3.2bar. Put the locking nut on and do it up tight being careful not to turn up the FPR as you do this. Now screw on the top nut and use a spanner around the locking nut to tighten up the top nut so not to adjust the FPR

When the engine is hot the pressure may decrease slightly, mine runs at about 3.1/3.15bar when it is hot.

You may want to get a remap if you have a mappable ecu or tweak you electronic controlers according to your mixture sensor. If you have none of these then it is worth doing, ECUTEK do nice mail order remapped ECU's.


DISCLAMER - No blaming me if it all goes pear shaped.




Have fun,

Neil.

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2a:

2b:

3a:

3b:

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7a:

7b:

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[Edited by Nezz10 - 6/26/2003 11:31:01 AM]

 

Very useful.

Worth also adding that you should depressurize the fuel system before disconnecting any fuel lines as the OEM regulator will hold some pressure in the system. This can done by disconnecting the power to the fuel pump and starting the engine, letting it stall and then turning it over a few times.

Andrew...

 

Thanks Nezz

I got what I wanted before I asked
I love this forum :-)

rupert

 

nice, where did you get the bits from?

 

Parts supplied from Mark @ Lateral Performance

Glad eveyone likes it.

 

Make it parallel!
Mail me for some pic

[Edited by Mike555 - 7/2/2003 10:37:46 AM]

 

This should be in the HowTo/FAQ forum!

Andrew...

 

Great pics and instructions .

One question tho... aren't the pressures quoted in the instructions a little high as standard. 3.2 bar at idle is a little more than i'd expect. I thought it was 3 bar atmospheric and about 2.6 bar at idle??? If your running more pressure to get a bit more out of the injectors then that's great but it doesn't say you are?

Tony.

 

Fantastic just what I need, but one question how do you undo the bottom screw holding the OE fpr and then tighten it back up with the fse part????

 

You have to mess about using various socket attachments trying to indo the bottom screw in the original fpr, better to use a hex head screw when fitting the new adapter, much easier.

 

Excellent, got an FPR on the way and know I know how t fit it too

 

Tone - The FPR was set up by Bob Rawle when I got a remap done on my Link a while ago, thats where I got my figures from.

 

Ah... maybe Bob set the pressure a bit higher to get a little more from the injectors. Makes sense if your running a Link as you can map it to take account of this.

Tony.

 

This is really great info and just came at the right time. I've fitted the up-rated fuel pump and now have the reg. to do (got a kit from Mark A).

I'm a bit confused re Mark555 comment "make it parallel" and the revised instructions. Can anyone expand please???

Thanks in advance...

Jon

 

Check out the pictures of the APS system at:

http://www.airpowersystems.com.au/wrx/my01/fuel_systems/frp_01.htm

It will give you a good idea of what the parallel fuel rail system actually does. It is interesting to see they use only 1 fpr that looks like OEM part. Whilst MRT in Australia uses two OEM fpr's on each rail ( Check out thread http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/thread.asp?threadid=224851). Wonder why APS and MRT don't use an adjustable fpr?

 

Nice set of pics but it doesn't show what a sh*t job it is to change the standard regulator.
Broken o-ring? you bet.
Hose to regulator too short? you bet.
Unable to get to the other end of it ? you bet.

If you dont believe me ask Len,he has done two!!

Paul.

 

Some good info on the parallel fuel rail mode on Ravensblade.

Andrew...