Is my knocklink working?
I have an MY01 with full decat and Tek3 running Optimax. Fitted a knocklinkand I get a dim bottom light (power) but absolutely no change, even when tapping next to the sensor. I have sensitivity at max, the sensor is mounted on the machined area above and to the right of the OEM sensor. Any ideas? Does it make a difference which way round the connectors to the sensor are attached?
Any insights much appreciated.
LoFi
Any insights much appreciated.
LoFi
The wires don't matter which way around they are but you will damage the sensor if you tap it. I supose if you can't get the Knocklink to light up you may have no other choice and you will have to tap the sensor at first very very lghtly then harder and harder to see if it may already be a damaged one.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
Cheers,
Wrexy.
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From: Throwing myself down a mountain at every opportunity...
Piers - you have to hit next to the knocklink fairly hard. Also, double check you have it set to MAX sensitivity not min 
Also any idea on this?
Rob? Anyone?

Also any idea on this?
Rob? Anyone?
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LoFi-- I got a knock sensor fitted by a subaru garage, they could not get the knock link to flash by tapping next to the sensor and they refused to tap on to the actual sensor for fear of damaging it.......but it finally lit up recently but flooring my p1 in 5th gear going slightly up hill from 70mph....so I know it's defiantely working.
the sensivity is set at max.
hope this helps.
the sensivity is set at max.
hope this helps.
If i tap (lightly) the block near the sensor the display goes crazy... very easy to light up the 'big red'. Set to max sensitivity. Wounder why mine is so easy to trigger and others aren't
.
Tony.
.Tony.
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
Depends what you tap it with and how you tap
Its listening for a particular frequency, I find it easy to light it up by smashing it really hard with a spanner 
Seriously, a firm metal to metal knock (A high frequency "tink" rather than a dull "donk") should register something.
Its listening for a particular frequency, I find it easy to light it up by smashing it really hard with a spanner 
Seriously, a firm metal to metal knock (A high frequency "tink" rather than a dull "donk") should register something.
The flickering lights at start-up is good enough for Bob, so it's good enough for me
Certainly better than knackering the sensor to find out if it's working or not.
You may find the best way of trying to make the lights come up is by holding the car at 4200-4300 rpm in 3rd then flooring it. 4500 is the most 'delicate' part of the map (highest VE of the engine) & if you can traverse this bit of the map quickly (ie ram a load of probably hotter than expected air into the engine as you've just floored it), you may be able to get it to light up.
Although you may not want to do this very often
Then again, it might not work...
Certainly better than knackering the sensor to find out if it's working or not.You may find the best way of trying to make the lights come up is by holding the car at 4200-4300 rpm in 3rd then flooring it. 4500 is the most 'delicate' part of the map (highest VE of the engine) & if you can traverse this bit of the map quickly (ie ram a load of probably hotter than expected air into the engine as you've just floored it), you may be able to get it to light up.
Although you may not want to do this very often

Then again, it might not work...
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