Another MOT pass with centre cat only
Maybe you guys can give me some advice.
Had MY99 since Feb 2002 and just added Prodrive B/B ( first mod ) and I'm very happy with it and now want more.
Thinking downpipe/centre section but really want hassle free MOT's.
If I went for a Scoobysport downpipe do I have good chance of getting through MOT and is there any point going downpipe and leaving original centre section with cat in?
Had MY99 since Feb 2002 and just added Prodrive B/B ( first mod ) and I'm very happy with it and now want more.
Thinking downpipe/centre section but really want hassle free MOT's.
If I went for a Scoobysport downpipe do I have good chance of getting through MOT and is there any point going downpipe and leaving original centre section with cat in?
Well, I have a Scoobysport downpipe and backbox, with std catted centre section, which I think is a pretty good way to have sensible power and no hassle MOTs.
I will still be putting a new decat centre on, but it's much easier to swap centre sections than downpipes.
Paul
I will still be putting a new decat centre on, but it's much easier to swap centre sections than downpipes.
Paul
Youre lucky, keep in mind with this setup alot of MY99/00s have also failed
Then u know what happens then, either find another MOT 'friendly' tester or put the standard DP back on, major hassle
Then u know what happens then, either find another MOT 'friendly' tester or put the standard DP back on, major hassle
How hard...REALLY... is a dwonpipe to fit, I keep looking at mine and think yeh! go for it, it can't be that hard to fit.
Especially as I drove a 94RA with the Magnex Twin Dump last week (that DP looks NICE!!!!)
Especially as I drove a 94RA with the Magnex Twin Dump last week (that DP looks NICE!!!!)
I have passed 2 MOTs with same exhaust setup as Paul, I was worried the second time because the center section hadn't been on the car for about 8 months prior to refitting it for the MOT (magnex center used normally). However, it passed no problems. To be honest I didn't really notice a great deal of difference performance wise between the 2?
Andrew...(MY98 UK Turbo Wagon)
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Scott
I fitted a TSL downpipe to my 00MY Turbo at the weekend, all in it took about 2.5 hours including cutting the heatshield! It went really well, but I have heard a few horror stories of snapping studs on the turbo or cross threaded lambda sensors. I used plenty of penetrating oil on the studs and put plenty of antisieze on the studs after. You will only really know if you're going to have problems after you've started the job
, also bear in mind that I am a mechanical fitter so know how to use a set of spanners
And it is definately worth the hassle, first test drive after




Glen
I fitted a TSL downpipe to my 00MY Turbo at the weekend, all in it took about 2.5 hours including cutting the heatshield! It went really well, but I have heard a few horror stories of snapping studs on the turbo or cross threaded lambda sensors. I used plenty of penetrating oil on the studs and put plenty of antisieze on the studs after. You will only really know if you're going to have problems after you've started the job
, also bear in mind that I am a mechanical fitter so know how to use a set of spanners
And it is definately worth the hassle, first test drive after





Glen
Doing the down pipe is easy the second time around once you leave the awkward ******* screws off of it.
On mine I also have to drain the chargecooler and remove the chargecooler. But after that is simple.
I think I can get the downpipe off in about half an hour, and that's without air tools. But I've stripped everything many times now.
Centre section is still easier though, 4bolts and and it's off.
If you leave the heatshield off, and use exhaust wrap, or eve nothing, then the job is easier still. FMIC and no heatshield (David's car) then it could be off in 15 minutes.
Paul
On mine I also have to drain the chargecooler and remove the chargecooler. But after that is simple.
I think I can get the downpipe off in about half an hour, and that's without air tools. But I've stripped everything many times now.
Centre section is still easier though, 4bolts and and it's off.
If you leave the heatshield off, and use exhaust wrap, or eve nothing, then the job is easier still. FMIC and no heatshield (David's car) then it could be off in 15 minutes.
Paul
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From: From Kent to Gloucestershire to Berkshire
I second Paul etc's comments - it's not that hard to change downpipe. My brother and I did mine in an evening after work, and fitted in a game of squash in the middle. Both of us are mechanically competent, but it was the first time for both of us working on anything significant on a scoob.
I think it is easier if there's two of you, but I could have done it myself if it came to it.
b.t.w. I won the squash
I think it is easier if there's two of you, but I could have done it myself if it came to it.
b.t.w. I won the squash
Still running my main cat downpipe with reasonable performance - I have *seriously* considered a sports cat downpipe for full on performance - but price is off-putting as i'm a tight barsteward.
That std CAT must go though - have heard *fables* OF FULL-DECATS Passing MOTs - if this is possible with a dash of additives or maybe a temporary fuel re-map
then maybe I'll consider that
That std CAT must go though - have heard *fables* OF FULL-DECATS Passing MOTs - if this is possible with a dash of additives or maybe a temporary fuel re-map
then maybe I'll consider that
I feel an MOT map coming On !!!!
Yeh it can't be that difficult to fit a downpipe... I'll start by soaking the studs in WD40 (top heatshield is already off)
[Edited by Scott.T - 11/13/2002 9:23:33 AM]
Yeh it can't be that difficult to fit a downpipe... I'll start by soaking the studs in WD40 (top heatshield is already off)
[Edited by Scott.T - 11/13/2002 9:23:33 AM]
CO seems quite high considering a cat is fitted. It would be pretty much the same even without a cat, although the HC may be a little higher without.
If they were just testing on the basis of 1200ppm HC, and 3.5%CO, then any subaru should pass, with or without a cat.
With a cat, the above values should be virtually zero.
If they were just testing on the basis of 1200ppm HC, and 3.5%CO, then any subaru should pass, with or without a cat.
With a cat, the above values should be virtually zero.
I have no idea how warm it was when they did it. I had to leave it there and it was chucking it down with rain. I did get it warm prior to leaving it at the MOT place.
Also suspect the modified maps is richer than normal, despite the closed loop etc.
Still, a pass is a pass. Will get it checked with full decat in good time though.
Paul
Also suspect the modified maps is richer than normal, despite the closed loop etc.
Still, a pass is a pass. Will get it checked with full decat in good time though.
Paul
Paul,
If the older ecu's are anything like the new, then closed loop fuelling will compensate for whatever you do in the maps....there's an air/fuel percentage correction value you can monitor.
A dodgy lambda will throw out closed loop though (obviously)...and cause an emmissions failure
Richard
If the older ecu's are anything like the new, then closed loop fuelling will compensate for whatever you do in the maps....there's an air/fuel percentage correction value you can monitor.
A dodgy lambda will throw out closed loop though (obviously)...and cause an emmissions failure

Richard
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